MrObsessive

Bob, he was "bpletcher55" here on the board. He went to the CPMCC (York, PA) and was one of the best when it came to weathering. If you check this thread here, you'll see the last model he posted here as far as I can see.

Wow.......I was told about Blair passing away while I was at work. Yeah, he was a REAL nice guy and I'm in total shock as it was all of a sudden what happened. You all that are into weathering..........Blair did a very in depth tutorial at one of our club meetings months ago. Even though weathering is not my forte, I was VERY impressed by the techniques he used, and he explained everything to where even a novice could understand. Tom, that's really great that you guys are dedicating the subtheme class for Blair. He would have loved this years show for sure.

Beautiful car Matt! One of Ferrari's finest! Getting these on eBay is mighty tough-------I've got the N.A.R.T. Spyder, and I agree about the kit. Very nicely molded, if not a bit sparse in detail as far as the engine. It would be nice if someone could see fit to reissue these as when the rare time that one does show up on eBay, you can bet it can go for a pretty penny!

Now THAT is wild! I'd love to see something like that in 1:1...........gotta watch out for those construction zones though and narrow lanes!

Chris, very nice conversion to this four door! If there's one little teeny-tiny nit I could pick--------it's the shape of the C pillar itself. If you take a look at the pic below, you'll get a peek at what I'd like to point out................. The leading edge of your C pillar should extend just beyond the shut line of the door, not be in line with it as you have on your model now. On the 1:1's manufacturers did it this way to enable the rear glass to have enough room to go down fully in the door, particularly with the hardtop styling of this type of car. You won't have opening doors, but on the 1:1 the door would shut against the structure of the body (body door jamb), which would support that part of the roof. This is just a guess, but maybe broaden the C pillar three or four scale inches? Excellent car you're doing and something you hardly see on the roads anymore!

Ray, I tried the dehydrator method years ago when the '59 Buick I was working on had a slight warp to its roof. If it were me, I'd try this in five minute intervals. I'm not so sure about the clamping method-------I would try and twist it on my own without the stress of the clamps. A better idea might be to put the body in hot (not boiling) water, and try it that way. You wouldn't run the risk of warping the roof, and you'd have a bit better control. One caveat with resin when you try to change any warping, is to not to wash the body in warm/hot water again for cleaning. Resin DOES have a memory and it'll want to go back to its original shape if you reheat the body later. EDIT: You might want to keep a bowl or something of cold water right next to your hot water. As soon as you get the body straightened after you heat it, immediately put it in hot water to "lock" it in place. Hope this helps!

Good question! I'm not sure if they're still under the government's thumb or not.

I just sold a pristine kit on eBay of the Johan '69 recently for $51. They can still be had at reasonable prices----it all depends on how many are for sale at any given moment, and who's bidding. Those '69s are still somewhat plentiful.......I have a clean buildup in my stash which I want to keep, and then there's the corrected body one I did on the AMT version which I made a thread here. Frankly, if I ever get around to building a Road Runner, I'd probably build the one that I did the MAJOR corrections. That one has always bugged me for many years due to its incorrect rear half and beltline.

Ha! I forgot all about Randy's Birdcage! I even commented on it! It's been awhile since I looked at his thread and all I can say is that they're better men than I. I haven't yet got the hang of soldering brass that close together without things falling apart. The closest I might have come to that may have been the working convertible top frame I did for my '64 GTO which I never finished.

Wow! I remember when Harold first started working on this way back when! Yeah, it would have been in the 1994-95 time frame as I first saw it when we used to have the MAMA meetings at the Catonsville College. That's a real beauty and I do hope Harold can finish it.............I've NEVER seen a full detail Maserati Birdcage done in that scale!

And to think that the Vega was actually a replacement for Chevy's much maligned Corvair! The Vega they never could get it right, and the Corvair they did get it at least mostly right in its later years and then they killed it!

Now that's a VERY NICE Hornet! Very seldom saw those on the road, and they'd be a hot property today! BTW, AMC used that trunion setup through '69. I'm VERY familiar with that crazy setup as it was going bad on my '69 AMX. I got a wake up call one time as I was doing some work underneath the car, and I could see where the insides of the front tires were wearing. The trunions were wearing to the point that the lower part of the spring was very slightly rubbing against the tires at times, so I replaced those PRONTO!

Hmmm..............that's a thought Ron! It's been a long time since I've taken my '58 to a show. Looks like I'll just go ahead and pack 'er up and bring it! John, you did me one better as your uptop looks very nicely done! I had to go by restored pictures and the ones I had showed rounded rear quarter window contours when in reality, they should have sharper corners. Of course, I had no internet back then (2001-02) so I had to rely on mags, books (and memory). Ain't that the truth! There are some models out there now that I can't help but notice the errors in body contours immediately, and these supposedly were done with the latest and greatest tech.

John, I can't wait to see that in person! That is one sharp '58! EXCELLENT!

A top denture plate that has cracked for the FOURTH TIME!! It just happened again yesterday, after I just had it fixed hardly three days earlier. I'm off tomorrow so maybe I can get the Dentist to fix it.............again! Maybe it's just as well I need to see about getting a new top denture. My gums have shrank and it's not fitting as well as it used to. I just don't feel like spending upwards of $500 for it!

Well, being a kid of the '60's-'70's, I can remember this car when it was new. Either steelies or the Magnums would suit me just fine as that's how I saw most of them on the road. Vectors aren't bad wheels............I'm just not crazy about them on a Charger.

Paul, just to echo what Ron had said, I'd love to tackle one of your kits. But eBay (even though I sell there occasionally) can get into such a bidding frenzy, that the final cost can still be out of the reach for a lot of us. I get how you feel about the copiers..........some folks either don't have the skill to make something on their own, or are just flat out lazy and rather ride the skill of someone else, instead of sharpening their own skills. Have you ever thought about offering your kits on the 'bay for a "Buy It Now" price? I'm not sure how you cure the copiers from copying........One can't copywrite the model since it is something that was once available in 1:1. Maybe calling them out on it when you see it happen (shaming them?) might help somewhat, but if they're that brazen in the first place, they'd sooner just give you the middle finger.

I didn't pick up that most of us here supported bad ripoff artists! I was looking forward to getting one of those Imperial hardtops down the road and build one as I certainly can't afford upwards $2000 for a built up. I know wagons are a hot property, but there are some of us that DO like and build them for our own enjoyment. Not trying to be a smart guy, but I found the assertion to be just a bit insulting..........guess I'll just craft an Imperial on my own I suppose.

Hopefully without any hangups or difficulties, I should be there Friday afternoon/evening. In fact, just got the confirmation letter from the hotel regarding my reservation. I'm going to try and remember to wear a name tag this year, although I'm kinda hard to miss (and hear).

If you check here Jeff, and scroll down a bit..............someone took a pic of it there.

Thanks for posting this Chris! Your review answered a question I've been wondering about the C7 'Vettes. I'm one of those that likes more detail......particularly in the engine and chassis area. I was hoping that the new gen car shared more with the C6, but looking at the chassis, they are different as far as the floor pan shape. I get Revell's point of wanting to make this a sort of quick builder, but I'm a little disappointed that this one doesn't have more of a parts count, for what's an iconic car. I may grab one down the road just the same------I could always mix and match parts to suit what I need. It does seem that as far as running gear (rear mount transmission and engine) the C7 shares a lot with the C6, so that's a plus there.

Absolutely Gorgeous Jeff! Very Clean!!

Same thing I was thinking. I'm glad to see the Miata back though! I have the original kit, but somewhere along the line, I ruined the tires in it. I'll take that '70 Charger too........that one should be a GREAT seller! Can it be too much to dream that we might one day get a '77 T-Bird out of that Torino?? Even if it's a lowrider, I'll take it!

I hate to be a killjoy in all of this but I can't stand Testor's enamel paints! They never totally dry as Art mentioned, and as I've learned looks can be deceiving. It may look and "feel" dry, but you handle it enough, the paint will eventually smudge and simply make a mess. You could put it in a dehydrator to "cure" it, but even then too much handling will still lead to trouble. I'd sooner have you learn how to use BMF (Bare Metal Foil) for applying your chrome trim than going through the hassle of painting it, only for it to not come out so well in the end. There's a learning curve to BMF but as they say................."Practice makes Perfect".