MrObsessive

Real or model anyone?? Absolutely fantastic job Ron! Super top notch paint!

That was probably the case Mark as I tried Tamiya's paint years ago when it first came out, and had that problem. I was able to get rid of the bubbles (it was on a Tamiya Morgan), but then another thing I wasn't crazy about is the paint is too soft for my tastes. I noticed this especially when it came time to rub certain areas out, and then the paint rubbed off as if it was a water color. For the cost and the amount you get, I'll just stick to the automotive paints.

Bill, if it comes out the can, it oughta come out the airbrush! Like Charlie said, you may have to add just a bit of thinner..............sometimes depends on the color too I've learned over the years, and how long the paint has been in said can. BTW, I've had difficulty spraying with Tamiya cans in the past. IMO, they use waaaaay too much propellant in their sprays, which can lead to a lot of little air bubbles embedded in your paint if you're not careful. At least if you decant it, you can let it gas out and minimize the air bubbles problem when airbrushing.

Mark, here is the car you're talking about................. Nevermind the unfoiled emblem! It has since been foiled since this pic was taken. Actually, the paint is an RC color called Faskolor Pearl White. It's a water based acrylic, and I find it to be very realistic if one doesn't want to go through trouble of drilling out the chrome headlight, finding a suitable lens, etc.

Oh I hear ya Art-------Loud and clear! An assembly manual is exactly what I used when I wanted to build my '57 Corvette. It came in REAL handy to get at the fiddly bits such as the brake line hangars and whatnot. Here's a couple pics that were scanned from it......... For us "rivet counters" out there..............it doesn't get any better than this!

Superb Work!! Love the detailing------especially that chassis!

First---------NEVER POKE A HOLE INTO A "SUPPOSEDLY" EMPTY PAINT CAN!! There's no telling how much of the propellant is still left in the can and unless you like being covered (and everything else) with paint, I say go for it! Here's what I use to decant paint into an airbrush jar.................. Quick and easy with no mess! Also, as far as block sanding your body (which I highly recommend), get yourself some balsa wood. You can cut it into various sizes with a coping saw-------it's excellent for getting the ripples, dips and dives out of your bodywork. As the others have mentioned, this will go a long way to keep paint from drawing away from your door lines. If you're painting candies.........this is ESSENTIAL! Hope all this helps!

Ryan, thanks for the heads up about the AMT vs. Revell differences. I don't have the Revell '68, but I was planning to get one for the conversion down the road. Yup, I knew that the roofline has to be adjusted on the '68 conversion as well as the rear window area. I've got a number of pics of a '68 coupe, but I'll certainly keep you in mind if I run into a snag. Will I have it cast? I dunno, as I want to keep the project going once I get started. Getting the body all ready and then waiting for it to be cast can cause me to lose interest. BTW, my comments are in no way a reflection of the quality of the kit--------I'm just one of those "proportion snobs" and this is not the only time I've seen this area missed by a conversion from fastback to coupe.

Keep your eyes on this forum...........I'm not promising anything, but an upcoming project of mine is to build an accurate 1968 Mustang coupe. Actually, what I want to do is a California Special. One needs to use the upper half of the '66 coupe (along with the correct rear quarters) along with the lower half of the '67-'68 Mustang fastback. That is a nice looking resin, but I also notice the too sloped rear quarters. They were different between coupe and fastback.

The paint is Dupont, but I got it directly from the local paint jobber who mixed it for me. It's whatever shade of blue Ford called it for '06, but the name escapes me at the moment. Thanks for asking!

What the others have mentioned (Google, eBay Motors, etc), but also the original shop manual of the car if the model is to be a superdetailed one. Can't get more reference than that of the underpinnings and whatnot of the actual car!

I thought in the old days AMT = Aluminum Model Toys. Some of the old timers can correct me if I'm wrong as they existed before I did

Pretty much as David described is what I would go with. For the pinstripes you could always paint some decal paper of like color and cut them from there. I would first put a coat of Microscale Decal Film over the painted decal paper first before cutting to make sure they don't crack on you. It would be a good idea to practice on a junk body if you're uncomfortable with painting around wheel arches and such beforehand if it were me.

Two words.............Tamiya Tape! Best stuff there is for masking off and such! I used it here for this Mustang when I wanted painted stripes as opposed to decals.............. The clear stuff you see on the tape pics is Parafilm. I got a huge roll of it off the 'net and a little goes a long way. Check the link here for availability. Hope this helps!

Neat tutorial! The only caveat I can see is that since it's so hard to sand, I'm not sure I'd want to put it on resin. Resin is "softer" thus will sand at a quicker rate than the filler. You'd end up sanding away more resin than the filler creating another problem. Just an FYI!

Not to pick on you Kevin------but the "aire" in Chrysler's "Torsion-aire", stood more for Chrysler's industry wide use of tubeless tires, and not to an actual air suspension. Chrysler AFAIK, never got into that troublesome system------that award goes to GM and to a much lesser degree Ford.

I can think of a couple IMO...... 1953 Studebaker Starliner: This one paved the way for the "personal cars" that we would see in later years. 1958 T-Bird, 1963 Pontiac Grand Prix, etc. Also it's design would influence Chrysler down the road as the 1957 models were going on the drawing board as of mid 1954. The entire 1957 Chrysler lineup: Chrysler's entire '57 lineup is what caused a giant such as GM to TOTALLY scrap their original plans for 1959 and entirely redo their designs from top to bottom. Not a lot of things swayed GM in those days as they were at the top of their game---------but when a relatively small company such as Chrysler designs something which causes an industry giant to sit up and take notice (literally), I'd say that's pretty significant.

Actually, 1961 Chrysler Imperials had the tallest by about an Inch or thereabouts.

Jim, Paintscratch lists it also as a '61 color..........might be a different shade though considering.

Autocolorlibrary I've had trouble in the past with getting a touch up amount to do a car in..............seems as though they only sell huge pint cans which is just too much for a model car. Maybe they've changed the amount you can buy but if not, you could always check out Paintscratch. Link below........... http://www.paintscratch.com/

George, I have his P1800 Volvo and it's a real nice kit....................and one probably not going to show up in plastic anytime soon. I wish I had gotten it though when the Euro was weaker like it is now. Still worth the money, and I can bet another one won't show up on the contest table! If I ever get around to building it, it'll be red just like my 1:1 '65 I owned once upon a time.

What really kills me Jon is when you write them to tell them they have the wrong year (or worse the make), and they don't do a thing to correct it! I try to make my auctions as accurate as possible.............I have one on there now that I had to do some digging on as I wasn't sure of the year. BTW, I'm in that "grandstand" photo that's on the box art! I remember when he took that pic of all of us in the stands when we were at the NNL East years ago. I bought the kit mainly for that reason!

Hey I found something! Back when I was building my Cougar II, I touched on making windows. If you click here it will take you to the original thread. Scroll down a bit---------or it could be on another page depending on your board settings. Hope this helps!

David, I think my original post went by way of the old byte bucket! The link you gave goes to some kind of search engine, so the original post may no longer be there. Mike for the November '09 issue of MCM, I wrote an article on making your own windows using clear stencil sheet. You can order a back issue here...........it'll come in real handy for what you want.

George this cool little site here will tell ya!