MrObsessive

Happy Birthday Gregg!! Hmmm.............looks like next year you hit the big FIVE-O! No problem, I'm right there along with ya!

Not sure if you'd like this model year, but here are a few pics of a '61 I did a few years ago. Don molds the chassis on these a little bit thick, so some sanding will be needed to bring the ride height down. Also since this was based on the old Johan tooling, Don corrected the wheelbase and body to the correct length. This one is definitely worth the money!

Do it man! This is one of Revell's better efforts! Not that any of the other new tools are bad---------but this one goes together very well without much drama!

Since I don't eat pork, I found those to be very good alternatives! Also, chicken sausage is good-------especially if you can find the buffalo and three cheeses kind.

Absolutely Gorgeous Cruz!!!

'58 models would have a ribbed hood while '59's were smooth. Also (I don't have the kit in front me), there might be mounting holes in the '58's trunk as those were for the chrome strips that zipped up the decklid. Also the '59 kit included a hardtop, while the '58 kit gave you a soft top only. Interestingly, the soft top is missing in the '59 kit. Wheelcovers should be slightly different between the two years--------'59's should have slots while the '58 should not. Other than seat patterns and such the kits are about the same.

I was all of 7 months old in May of '62! Models for me would be another 16 years away! The only car I could relate to (and that would take some time) would be my Dad's '55 Plymouth Savoy 2 dr. I probably got all kinds of toy cars as a toddler then--------all of them long gone.

Cool drawing! Those '59 Ramblers are all over the place on eBay. Not expensive, and they're molded in nice workable styrene. Wouldn't take too much work to turn it into a '58, but you'd have to fix the wheelbase unless you want to make an Ambassador.

One could always go here to check out all sorts of details for 1:1 cars.

I second what Gramps has to say about that primer. If it's Testors primer..........DON'T KID YOURSELF AS IT IS NOT PRIMER! My recommendations for good sandable primers as Bob mentioned are these........... Duplicolor Tamiya Plastikote Krylon As Bob said, it must say "sandable" on the can in order for it to be effective on plastic. My normal way of applying primer is to decant the paint into an airbrush jar--------then airbrush it. I'm not crazy about cans of any type..........it's a paranoia thing with me. HTH!

That's a real cool fish Mike! This is one car that's also begging to be made into a modern kit! One kitted up real nice with some street options I'm sure would FLY off the shelves!

Another thing you might want to do after the yellowing is gone, and to ensure against brittle decals------go to your LHS and pick up something called Microscale Liquid Decal Film. This is excellent stuff to "toughen up" the decals, especially if they've been around awhile. You brush it on with a heavy brush, let it set for about 20 minutes or so, then cut them like normal and set them in water to use. HTH!

Chris, what I've done to "deyellow" decals is to put them in direct sunlight for a few days. The ultraviolet rays of the sun is what does the trick. Maybe you could put them in your window sill, or better yet, on the dash of your car where it can get mighty toasty. Give it a shot!

Beautiful El Camino!! And that Scion ain't too shabby either! As far as posting pics, on this board's software..........you're allowed 10 pics per post. Go over that, and you get the nice little message telling you that you've gone over the limit. BTW, excellent paint on that Magnum! It's coming along nice!

OK, the giveaway for me immediately was the roof! I don't see many Johans built these days (they have no vinyl roof detail), and the Monogram ones I do see built don't have the correct C pillar shape to me (too narrow). One COULD take the Johan and put a convincing vinyl roof covering on it, but there were some other details that gave it away-------the clarity of the glass, quarter window chrome strip, etc.

Now THIS is what I like to see!! That is some VERY impressive soldering work there on the frame! What type of iron do you use and solder? I have a Metcal unit (same type I use at work), with some regular silver bearing solder for general work, and high temp solder for close work such as what you're doing. I also have a Weller unit for instances where I need to regulate the melting point of various joints. Very impressive indeed!---------Keep us posted!

I also have had no problems with Plastikote primer. As Dave mentioned, I spray indoors in a paint booth. It's located in the upstairs part of my house, so the temp is somewhere around 70-75°. Now I'm one of the paranoid ones that doesn't trust aerosol cans--------I don't know if that makes a difference, but I decant just about everything into an airbrush jar.

I believe by '56 the straight eight was no longer in use. It was V8's only. I could be wrong though. I thought the X frame was intro'd in '58...............gotta do some checking........

As Jairus explained, Ford used red oxide primer quite a bit on the undersides of Mustangs in those days. Here are a couple pics of the underside of a '68 Shelby showing the primer and the overspray.................... HTH!

I don't know much about short track cars, but I can tell you that the '55-'57 Pontiacs shared the chassis pretty much with the Chevys in those years. You'd have to lengthen the chassis a bit for the Pontiac, as their wheelbases were always a bit longer than its Chevy cousins As far as rooflines, those were also shared with Chevy as they were both "B" body based. IIRC, most short track cars were post sedans, so any of the AMT '55 Bel Air 2 dr sedans should work-------or Revell's nice '56 or '57 Chevy 2 dr sedans should also work with some tweaking. The Starchief you want to model did come as a 2 dr. post sedan. Engines? I'm a little lost there as I can't think of any kit at the moment that would have a correct '56 Pontiac engine. I guess one could use the '55 Chevy 265 as a base-------but I'm sure there are those more knowledgeable than me on this one. Hope this helps!

One reason I'll say real is this................the body shape itself is a giveaway to this one. You all will have to guess where and why..............

Do you mean here Brandon? PSAB Chat

Yes, GM starting with the '59 models adopted the Chrysler practice of using inner body shells and rooflines for all the divisions. While the glass from a '59 would also fit a '60..........not so the '57-'58 windshield glass. The '59's glass wrapped up into the roof slightly and the windshield post didn't have as steep a dogleg as the '57-'58. Also, GM starting in '59 through about 1970 were on two year styling cycles. Once again while the inner structures were about the same, differences the customer could readily see such as fenders, glass, and rooflines changed at least every two years. In some cases at least every year as certain years are not interchangeable. Would you believe the 1959-64 Chevy are basically the same car save for fender and roofline changes?? Cruz, I got to tell ya-----------that Caddy has one of the NICEST paint jobs I've seen come from you! That shot of the hood with the PE really sets it off! Keep it going!

Hmmm...............I'm going to say to my eyes, it's a tie between the '59 Cadillac and the 1961 Chrysler Imperial. Those had soaring fins as well!

Here ya go Chris................. I had a dealer brochure that helped give me an idea on the stance of the SRT's. The kit tires are actually for an R/T----------a bit taller profile those tires have on the 1:1.