-
Posts
9,782 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Everything posted by MrObsessive
-
1/25 AMT '63 Chevrolet Impala SS Hardtop
MrObsessive replied to Casey's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Definitely for sure! Now it could be that AMT did have that correct when they first got the plans for the tooling sometime in 1961 or thereabouts when the '63's would have still been in the planning stages. Then, GM changed up at the 11th hour making it too late for AMT to change their tooling. Just a guess.......... Revell's roof looks waaaay too exaggerated to my eyes, particularly in the roof 'crease'. It sticks up in the air like a humpback to my way of seeing. I didn't pay much attention to the front and back ends till Steve pointed it out and now that I've seen it, I can't unsee it. Revell's is derived from a diecast I thought, but that's still no reason why it's so way off. I've got some diecasts in my collection that are spot on correct despite that. Interesting that they got it right on their '64.........kinda like what they did between their '59 and '60 hardtops. '59 not so right..........'60 dead on accurate IMO. -
1/25 AMT '63 Chevrolet Impala SS Hardtop
MrObsessive replied to Casey's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Peter that is a GORGEOUS '63! AMT got the roof right on theirs for the most part. It just seems to me the C pillar is a bit 'thin' compared to the 1:1 and Revell's '64 gets this pretty much on the money. -
I want to add that I can't remember the last time I saw one of these cars running on the road. In my town right down the street from me was one that was parked in the same spot for many months at a store/apartment building. I never saw the car being driven, but from its appearance on the street it didn't look bad at all. One day months ago I noticed it was gone, so I don't know if the owner of the car had it towed, or if someone bought it and simply drove it away. That was the ONLY one I had seen in quite a long time and even at the car shows while other '70's cars are starting to show up, I have not seen any 1977-'79 T-Birds.
-
Peter, I can still remember when this car was new in late '76 as a '77 model as I was in high school at the time. It was a real SHOCKER to myself and buddies of mine that were car guys when this car first showed up on the street. It was a TOTALLY different car than the one before which I always thought was just too big and ungainly looking. FINALLY there's an accurate resin of one heading our way if Paul gets this one for sale. I can't wait!
-
Dodge L-700 V12
MrObsessive replied to Sportabout's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
My curiosity got the better of me as I'm not a truck guy, but I do like L700's. All I gotta say is WOW! What a really trick idea and I'll definitely be watching this one! -
1/25 AMT '63 Chevrolet Impala SS Hardtop
MrObsessive replied to Casey's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Sorry Alan, but I gotta agree with Steve on this one. While the old AMT annual kit of the '63 Chevy is not a bad kit, there are some things about the shape (namely the roof) that I simply don't like. OTOH, Revell's to my eyes is worse. I'd go one better and I can 'bout guarantee no one will go this route. Take the roof off of Revell's VERY good '64 (most accurate to my sight) and graft it on the lower part of AMT's '63 (which is dead on right). Use the guts out of the Revell '63 (chassis, interior bits, etc) and to my way of looking at it, you'd have a darn good model. Now I know that most won't go this route, but this car is in my list of to-do's one of these days and that's how I want to build it. Flame suit on! P.S. I really DO like the box art of the reissue so that's part of the reason I'd get another one! -
round 2 66 nova problems
MrObsessive replied to bauercrew's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Right out of the can mixed, I didn't have to do any thinning at all. You can use 91% alcohol to thin it out if needed. I used my old Badger Crescendo to airbrush it since it's old and also it can put out a bit heavier spray than my other airbrushes. Thanks Jim! -
GOING NUTS, NEED YOUR HELP
MrObsessive replied to Chief WeeAuto's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I haven't looked over their entire inventory, but you might want to try here. -
round 2 66 nova problems
MrObsessive replied to bauercrew's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I originally used BIN on bare plastic when primer was put over it. I was building Revell's Viper and saw it wear away a bit too much when sanding as it was getting down to bare plastic. It seems to bond better when put over paint. At least in my case that's what happened. -
round 2 66 nova problems
MrObsessive replied to bauercrew's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Sorry for any confusion. You want to put on a light coat of primer on the body first. The key here is LIGHT because yes, too heavy a coat can craze the plastic. It's one of the reasons I'm not crazy about Duplicolor paints for example. I've found them to be too hot these days for today's plastics and my primer of choice is the Plastikote T-35. Plastikote can be a bit hard to get...........some others like Tamiya primer for example, but man is that stuff EXPEN$IVE! This is also where an airbrush comes in very handy. I'm not a fan of spray cans at all as there's no way to regulate how much paint will come out and what kind of force you're going to get. Some are proficient at spray bombing stuff----I'm just not crazy about using cans. You then want to follow this up with a coat of the BIN sealer, then put ANOTHER coat of primer on top of that, followed by your color coats. As you can see from the pic I posted, I got good results doing it this way. You can put the BIN on bare plastic, but I can't guarantee that it'll bind with the plastic well. Better to put it on paint such as primer. One thing I forgot to mention on the 'Vette.....another reason I wanted to use the BIN was the hood had that scored line on the underside of the hood which is GUARANTEED to show through on the top side whenever you're painting with a hotter paint. Using the BIN wards against that. So my sequence of this is as follows: LIGHT coat of primer BIN Zinsser Another coat of primer (or however many suits you) Color coats Hope that clears things up. -
round 2 66 nova problems
MrObsessive replied to bauercrew's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
You're welcome Lloyd! Fotki is back up and running again........for now. Here are a couple pics where I used the BIN on the '74 'Vette. One of the main areas that I had to do some putty work was on the roof. The original builder used LOTS of tube glue to get the glass runner in. Well, this literally warped the one side of the roof, to the point where I had to fill the depression in with Dynatron Putty-Cote and then feather edged this out. Here's the body first covered in Plastikote T-35........ And now covered with the BIN Zinnser...... Another coat of primer was put on after the sealer with the color coats to follow and now you can see where there's no crazing or bodywork putty showing through, particularly on the roof. -
Love the chassis detail Randy! As far as your decals, if you have any Microscale Liquid Decal Film laying around, you might want brush a coat of that on them and let 'em sit for a day. That'll "toughen 'em up" so they won't break apart from the carrier.
-
round 2 66 nova problems
MrObsessive replied to bauercrew's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I use this one............. You'll have to mix it up a bit when you first open it..........also you'll need an airbrush. They do make an aerosol, but I don't recommend it as it sprays VERY heavy. You want just enough to cover your base primer coat. After that, put on another coat of your regular primer and then your color coats. That should ward off any crazing. Yes, I HIGHLY recommend this for sealing filler! I had to learn the hard way years ago when I was building a 1955 Ford Fairlane Victoria hardtop that not all fillers play nice with primers. I had originally used Future as a sealer, but I didn't put enough on and I can now see where I did the bodywork when I had to split the roof to fit the body. Lesson learned. I'll only use the BIN Zinnser from here on out for playing well with putties. One example where this came in handy: When I was building my '59 Chevy years ago, those of you that seen that saw all the body work that went into it. There was NO WAY I wanted any surprises with the paint so I used the BIN Zinsser on that to ward off any disasters. I'd like to post a pic of a VERY recent WIP I did with my '74 Corvette, but Fotki has indigestion right now and won't let me on. I'm not at my laptop where those pics are, otherwise I could upload them from my hard disc. Either which way, give this a shot. Kits are too expensive now to be ruined by bad paint. At least this gives you that extra shield of protection. -
I absolutely LOVE what I'm seeing so far Paul! I'd sure love to snag one of these when it's available. Finally one of my favorite cars of the '70's is seeing the light of day!
-
Thanks for the great pics Tim and it was good seeing you Friday night at Hoolihan's! Hope you can make it again!
-
From what I saw of the test shot AAR at the NNL East, the wheel well lips still seemed too big. I was hoping they would have trimmed those down a bit but I guess not. Also, the quarter window shape is still lacking the sharp corners, but that's an easy fix.
-
Hmmm...............1969 Firebird Trans Am from the '69 Camaro and '68 Firebird? I mentioned this car to Ed directly several years ago at the NNL East and he shook his head in agreement. We shall see!
-
round 2 66 nova problems
MrObsessive replied to bauercrew's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I'll keep screaming this from the mountaintops. PLEASE barrier coat ALL of your plastics before using any type of automotive paints on today's kits. The plastic being used today is NOT the same as it was 20 years ago. It's not as dense and yes, it crazes much easier than it used to. I'll say that I've been noticing this since about 2004 or so. When I'm building a newer kit, especially made since the 2000's on up, I'll take the extra time to put a barrier coat over a light coat of primer such as BIN Zinsser sealer. Hope this helps and sorry about your mishap. There's not much more frustrating than that! -
I think I got this one. You'll be SHOCKED when you see the manufacturer. I've never seen one of these in 3D in the states, but remember seeing it elsewhere.
-
What a TERRIFIC show! And I certainly wasn't expecting this.................. I had put in my Daytona as more of a display, but for those that hadn't seen it, I did place a card with some details about it. I truly didn't expect it to win the theme as I thought it was a bit 'old'. Here are a few up to date pics I took this morning. A HUGE thank you to the Tri-State Scale Model Car Club for putting on ANOTHER good show! I indeed had a very messy drive over there, but it was worth it to see folks I don't see often and have this nice surprise to boot!
-
I missed that show last year unfortunately.......gonna try and definitely make it this time around. I’m about to hit the road and head for NJ. Of course, it’s rainy and messy out! ? With Friday afternoon Jersey traffic, hopefully I can beat it and get there in a reasonable time. See you all there! ?
-
True! That might make for an interesting model though! ??
-
Hard to believe, but that thing is real. Can't see doing that to an El Camino. Those are tough to find as it is these days.
-
Check to see if you have any emoticons that may not be playing nice. At times when I do an update on a WIP, particularly with the pics I post, the font color and bold type, I get that 404 error. I get rid of a few emoticons and then it'll post. Not sure if this helps, but this is the issue I've run across.