highway

I'm glad I could help, and I figured part of it might have been the instructions! Why AMT put the exterior color chart in the instructions before you even start the assembly of the frame or anything else is beyond me!

I didn't know they actually tampo printed those tires, it would be nice if they did that with all the NASCAR kits! The raised number is supposed to be the tires code, since Goodyear has a different tire for each track. Now, as for what track the code actually stands for, I have no idea.

I usually use brake fluid for paint stripping, and I use dishwashing liquid and warm water to clean the stripped body. I've not had any problems yet.

Charlie, I honestly don't see why there would be any problem preassemling it prior to paint. I got this one from a friend of mine who got it from a mutal friend of ours. I read throught the instructions and didn't see anywhere like you reffered to where it said not to assemble the parts prior to painting, but I might be missing something or maybe you have an earlier issue kit. Here's all my instructions show. Anyway, back to question at hand, here are a couple pics of the cab that you had questions on, and these all appear to have been assembled before painting. The bed is not assembled, since the original (failed) idea was to have the AMT camper on the back, until the friend of ours totally messed up the shortbed frame trying to extend it, but I did do a quick test fit for you. I don't see any problem with you also assembling the bed pieces first, especially since it appears as the tailgate is also glued in place. I tried the test fit with the side held in place and the tailgate will slide right in place from the bottom just in case you are modifying it to open. I hope the helps out!

I, too, use the one part Bondo Glazing and Spot putty, and really haven't had a problem with it shrinking, unless the cracking while it dries if you apply too much of it or too thick is what Mike and Mike are talking about with shrinking. I used the one part too finish the imperfections in this custom sleeper after using regular Bondo to fill and shape the roof to match the kit pieces in the front and rear of it.

Jr, I honestly stay away from the hobby grade fillers like Squadron Green putty and use auto grade putties and fillers. I ruined an Italeri tractor trailer cab with Squadron green because the Squadron green shrunk horribly and ruined the pieces beyond repair. I use regular Bondo for large areas and the one part red Glazing and Spot putty for smaller areas. I used the regular Bondo in shaping and filling the center of the roof on this truck to match the original kit pieces curve in the sleeper pieces, then used the red glazing putty for the touchups of pinholes and final shaping. Here's a couple of in progress pics where you can see the Bondo and putty work better. The Glazing and Spot putty is great for the final refinements, but if you apply it too heavily, the putty will crack as it dries. The putty is also friendly to use in the house, it doesn't have any harsh fumes, but the Bondo is better used outside or with very good ventilation. When I applied the Bondo to the sleeper roof, it was February or early March, and it wasn't pleasant having every window in the house open in 10 degree weather until the fumes cleared out!

Wow, Greg, I was surprised to see you mentioned the Dale Earnhardt clear kit! I'm a diehard Earnhardt fan and I never even knew of it until just a couple of years ago when I found a factory sealed (and still is!) kit at a model show and brought it home. I'm not sure if this is completely true or not, but I think based on the earlier pic of the "Ghost" Cuda, the Earnhardt kit is unique among these clear kits as well. The box art for the Earhardt kit shows that the entire kit is made of clear plastic except for the tires. Just as an F.Y.I., the car is Earnhardt's 1998 Daytona 500 winning car.

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this, or it might just be due to a generation gap, but AMT's 2006 Chevy Camaro Concept into Bumblebee from the Transformers movie. You could also build an early VW into the TV cartoon version of Bumblebee. Another possibility from the newer Transformers movies with some minor reworking is Optimus Prime from Revell of Germany's Peterbilt 359 kit.

Well, finally I have it back on the bench, and even though it's a mini update, it's an update! First off, many thanks to Hunter (showbuilder) for saving my rear and having an extra set of hood hinges for this he sent me and I received today. I tried to make a set, but failed horribly, but I'm hoping to at least turn the fail into a win, I'm going to modify them to make hinges for the bumper. Here's where I'm at with it right now. I was also lucky enough to talk to a fellow trucker one day who was nice enough to show me how his 1:1 moose bar operated and mounted, so the idea of the hood and bumper as one is completely gone, the bumper will be independant of the hood. I also noticed that the real one I looked at sets about 6 inches forward of where the stock bumper would mount, so I added a front crossmember to push the bumper out so it doen't hit the steer tires.

This big monster has finally found it's way back to the desk! I've been working on making hinges for the bumper. Thankfully I received a new set of hood hinges for it today from Hunter (showbuilder) and have been trying to figure how I can use my failed attempt of making the hood hinges to at least hold the bumper on.

Earl, that car carrier is great! Nice job! I can't wait until the first of the year, I have the feeling already the MCM truck stop will have some beautiful trucks in it!

When Walmart was getting rid of their models and model supplies, I picked up a few of the Testors packaged #11 X Acto blades for 10 for a $1.00. Of course, even though this is slightly off the topic, I have picked up many kits for the can't beat price of .20 to .25 cents! If you couldn't guess it, that was the price of the ticket at the show kit raffles. I did also get a couple of Xuron sprue cutters and a nice set of paint brushes thanks to kit raffles, too.

Yes, Clayton, that is correct. You will pick what kit you want to build, you build it the way that you want it, just as long as it is within the one main rule I will have when I actually start the official build thread after January 1 that the truck must be a road legal truck. It will be built between the start date on January 1st and will end in either six months or one year from the starting date.

Good to hear! That is one of the reasons I'm keeping the rules to only a few, so we can have fun and get some trucks off the shelves and on the workbench.

That's up to you, Blake! A friend of mine has that kit, too, so I know it can be built either way.

Rick, any year truck will qualify, it could even be something like the recently reissued 1926 Mack tanker from Revell! Any scale is welcome, too. If you want to do a 1/32 or even a 1/87, that will work.

As of right now, the only firm date is starting after the first of the year. The time limit is open to suggestion, but will probably be no longer than one year and no shorter than 6 months.

You are one of the builders that had me rethink that! I know a few other guys are from your neck of the woods, too, and Kostas is from Europe and Sergey is from Russia (I think), just to name a few of the top of my head, so that's why I decided not to limit the builds just to the American rigs.

Thanks for the assist, James, it was a late night last night!

Do you know if you'll be back near the first of the year? I won't be starting it any sooner than that.

Yeah, the lack of an engine is a downer, but I was at least lucky I only paid 25 cents for it! I got it at a show kit raffle, even though I don't think they really wanted to give it to me! They tried to hand me a tank (what do you expect at an IMPS show ) and I asked the guy handing out the kits if I could have it since I do build trucks and don't build tanks.

Beautiful! I just wish I could be there to hear that baby fire up!

If your talking about the wrecker, you'll probably have it done before I even start the actual build! Of course, the idea you were talking about doing after the wrecker the other night in the chat room certainly qualifies! Just make sure you have your oversize escorts!

Yep, that's the one with the container. The detail is not bad at all, the big downer is there is no engine. It's just a curbside with the lower engine molded into the frame. Of course, the frame is one big plus, since it is molded in one piece. No fussing with getting the frame rails straight! It's been a while since I worked on it, but I think there were some separate crossmembers to install, though. I'd be happy to have you join up, and since, like I said, I wouldn't actually be starting the build thread until after the holidays, you have plenty of time to get ahold of something to build!

I know for sure one I've wished for ever since I onwed the 1:1 as my first car, a 1976 Mercury Cougar XR-7. That pic could be my old Cougar's identical twin, and I know MPC made a 1973 version, which I had, but there was just too much difference to make it into a 76. A couple others that come to mind are the two currently in my driveway, my 1990 Ford F350 dually 4x4 and my 1990 Ford Thunderbird. Yes, I know Monogram made the F350, which I have too, and Revell did the 1990 T-Bird, which again, I do have, but neither are close to my vehicles. In the case of the F350, the kit is an extended cab, mine is a regular cab. The kit is a gas engined truck and a two wheel drive, mine is a diesel 4x4. I do plan to modify the Monogram kit to make it my 1:1, but it would be much easier if I didn't have to! The same is true for the T-Bird kit, I have to modify the Super Coupe down to the base model I have in the driveway, which means taking the turbo intake off and making a standard V6 intake and also modifying the bumpers to the non SC bumpers, among other little things.