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Deckerz

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Everything posted by Deckerz

  1. This morning it finally came, the new block and engine face, i don't have the drive belts for the GT500 but i hope to get a set of metal detailed ones. I have started painting on it already, only small but the supercharger base is now titanium silver but i might paint it in alclad chrome. Engine Colours (Tamiya Paint) Block - Semi gloss black Cams - Semi gloss black Cam Covers - Light green (with black detail) Supercharger Base - Titanium Silver (maybe alclad chrome instead) Supercharger - Semi gloss black Intake - Undecided
  2. Top of the list is the AMT 1970 fast and furious charger (basically the 1969 dukes of hazard charger kit with a few extra bumpers and grills), the chassis is awful, has no engine mounts, the engine is awful, supercharger doesn't line up properly, bumpers don't fit, roll cage doesn't fit, badly moulded kit! After that is the 87 mnte carlo by revell, the bumpers don't line up properly and the front of the chassis is too high, it stick out the bottom of the body when it should be hidden, minor things but its a good moulded kit. Hate to say it but the 06 mustang gt, sure everything fits on this kit pretty much perfectly but they messed up the front suspension and the rear part of the chassis, you guys know the story of the front suspension being too high but the rear is not exactly accurate, the wheels are so thin on this kit, they are as thin as old muscle car wheels and the problem is you can't fit anything wider or they rub on the inside fenders. The only way i see to fit wider wheels is to widen the rear arches but correct me if im wrong.
  3. ok so iv done a little work on the chassis today, obviously by the pics its not done... i primed the chassis and front suspension the hand painted with thinned tamiya gloss black, its only had one coat so far. i did the silver bits with thinned tamiya titanium silver, i think the axle need a little weathering. now i need yout input guys, should i paint the exhaust system again with the tamiya silver then detail it with clear blue and clear yellow or should i paint it chrome (to match metal tips) and detail it?
  4. OK so those of you who don't know already, Vin Diesel anounced of his facebook page that the Fast 5 trailer will be released next tuesday at 12 noon im guessing US time, so around 5:30pm UK time. Im so exited just for the trailer! The movie is set to be released mid next year in June for the US and UK.
  5. Alright so today iv been focusing on the engine again, got the meeting point for the trany and engine sanded, now it looks like it was ment to be like this but i guess its better then a dodge trany anyway (been told they break eaisily in real life). I used what i had left of tamiya gloss black, i was going to airbrush it but i didn't have enough so i thinned it down so its too thin for airbrush but too thick to be a wash, this is the engine after 2 coats of it brushed on. I think it needs another coat or 2, then i will clear it. The body is currently in the freezer because when i removed the back window it snapped and part of its still glued on the inside so i need to get the piece out for a new window, freezing it should make the glue brittle so it should just snap out (thats the plan). BEFORE I FORGET, I AM IN NEED OF A SET OF NEW HEADERS FOR THIS ENGINE, I MUST HAVE ACCIDENTLY THROWN THE OTHER ONES AWAY
  6. Just wondering if any of the model companys make a good quality 60's mustang coupe? iv searched ebay and all i can find is fastback.
  7. great job so far. dare i say it, yeah i will. i acctually want this kit, me, an AMT kit!
  8. Thanks man, i was going to do that but after looking closer i will need a new frame :/ i am hoping to get a IFS from a 37 coupe kit because i hate the leaf springs, iv been told the willys frame will fit with slight modification and has the IFS so i could wither go with that or build my own custom frame. Added putty to the trany and a light coat of primer to to show where i need to sand the putty, after all, what you can see in the pic of the engine is all going to be black, and surfaces for black need to be perfect, fair enough you will hardly see the trany or the bottom of the engine but i want it to look clean. I will not sand the primer on the engine though, it will look "true" if i don't sand it, but the body's primer will be sanded obviously.
  9. Easy for me, my old beauty, i miss her but i will get another soon, i love this car even though it has its problems. Mine is now scrapped but thats where it was heading , it failed its MOT first then i decided to use it as my rally car for a few months (as the mg zr was a rally car anyway), but after 2 engines it was time to say bye. Rover 25/MG ZR, i had the rover but i changed the front grill, front lower lip, rear lower lip and rear spoiler to the MG ones. Here some pics of them, mine was the green one. Mine Below
  10. They had to bring it out in 2011 didn't they. Everyone is looking forward to Fast 5 next year, being released in april or may, i can't remember but its going to be a sick film, i don't think this hot rod film will go down well if its released around the same time but even if its not, fast 5 will be car film of the year.
  11. Little update on the engine, iv glued on the new tranny for the engine, it looks rough because it is. It is all straight although it might not look it. While i was cutting the tranny from another engine the saw blade i was using snapped and caused it to slip, so i will have to add a thin bit of putty where the engine and tranny meet but it should look fine once its all done. The engine and tranny are going to be gloss or semi-gloss. I will pick up some chrome paint at some point, the engine oil pan will be chrome to match the transmission pan, so will the headers with detailing and maybe the intake but i dont know yet. The rocker covers will matched to the engine but the viper writing on them will be yellow or orange or something, havn't decided yet. Anyway heres the engine upside down haha.... I forgot to cut the transmission mount off before gluing but it helped lining it up, i will cut it off once the glues dry. As for the body its almost stripped, i got all the purple paint off and discovered it had silver paint under that but its almost done.
  12. I was wondering if any kits, specificaly revell make a 1/24 or 1/25 ford v10 engine?
  13. alright cool, the coupe IFS should be better in scale because its 1/25 but either should work, im not adding fenders, i don't think they look good on the early 30's rods, i don't really want to buy the whole kit just for the IFS, hopefully someone on here has it.
  14. ok thanks, i hope to have an attempt at building my own frame because the stock frame is not long enough for the engine im putting in and it will make it unique i guess. So i need to get my hands on a 37 ford sedan IFS from somewhere, does the 37 coupe use the same IFS?
  15. interesting stuff guys thanks, while im here, would the 32 ford coupe body fit the 37 sedan chassis? that would save alot of time if it does.
  16. Thanks Matt, once they are glued should i roll a thin bit of putty and put it round where the surfaces meet?
  17. Do any revell kits have up to date independent front suspension that would fit 30's hotrods or do any aftermarket companys make it? If not how would i make it myself? This is only for front suspension, making rear independent suspension is quite easy on rods.
  18. I have a engine with the gearbox cut off and i have a aftermarket gearbox, whats the best way to graft them together and make it look good?
  19. no its not that one :/ It was in tip, trick, and tutorials. I hope it hasn't been deleted. Thanks anyway.
  20. iv always wanted to build a scale version of my old car, a 2002 MG ZR or the rally version or the S2000 model... Stock Rally Rally S2000
  21. I saw a thread a while ago on how to build a chassis frame. I searched for it and can't find it, anybody got the link to it?
  22. thanks for the tip man but iv never really been good at building headers from solder, its pretty easy with metal tubing but its just getting the tubing to bend thats the hardest bit. So i changed the position of the engine to where it should be then did mesurements to give space between the radiator and drivebelts. Its not totally accurate yet because i haven't decided what radiator and fan to use yet but iv given enough room for what i plan to use. The center of the front wheel is where the back of the grill will be just like the stock car, when i build the new frame it will be based on the stock chassis but the front end will be stretched which should make it look more like a roadster front end. These wheels are not the ones im going to use, they are the type i want to use but the backs are slightly too wide, and the front are too skinny, other then that they are the right size for this car, i want it to have a slight aggresive stance once finished but first things first, strip and re paint the body.
  23. The only model paint i use right now is tamiya, i use automotive the rest of the time. Anyway, i know tamiya don't make a clear brown, so three questions.... 1: Do any model paint companys make a good clear brown? 2: If not how would i go mixing my own clear brown? 3: Im guessing yes but would it be safe to spray the clear on top of chrome paint? Thanks, Dec.
  24. Not much change as iv been kickboxing but iv got the engine mocked up straight now, on the last pics it was on a slant, and iv got the firewall mocked up too. When i have marked the firewall with a blue line is where the engine will be raised too on the new chassis, then the tranny and oil pan will clear. Im thinking, i might have to change the tunnel in the interior but the only problem with that is that there isn't much room for feet in the interior already so i can imagine how small it would be with a bigger tunnel. I don't know what im going to do about headers, iv cut them down and they still do not want to fit so i will probaly have to find some from the SRT-10 kit if they will fit.....anybody know?
  25. Ok so starting a fresh project while im waiting for parts for my mustang, a 32 ford coupe i got from bill_rules, iv salvaged what i can from it so far which is the body, frame, front grill and other parts, it need to be stripped so i will do that soon. This is my first hotrod really, i need to build a new frame but i have no idea how or what thickness styrene i need to construct the frame. Iv done a little research by watching american hotrod and i know that roadsters have a longer hood/front end then coupes so i need to give it a longer hood, wondering why? Well before i got it i was thinking just to put the mustang gt engine in there but it didn't look that good in there, then i remembered....i have another engine that will look perfect in there...... Now the reason i have to make the nose longer is obviously because of the engine, the radiator will not fit in the engine bay unless its modified. I usually plan a project before i start it like the paint, type of wheels ect but on this it was harder because i don't know what to expect, but i was looking at it while drinking a can of relentless and thought "that would look good" so if there is a clear brown i will try lay it on top of a chrome/white two tone so it should look abit like the cans design, then i will print off some relentless water slide decals for it. As iv never built a frame, is it possible to build it so it will fit under the body unlike the stock frame in the pics??
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