Matt Bacon

Thanks, Jon! Now the doors are on. The first thing I did was to apply silicone "Plastic Parts Grease" (from the bike store) to the hinge pins on the door arm, and the inside of the socket on the car body. This lubricates the mechanism and, more importantly, stops any kind of glue capillarying inside the hinge and locking it up. After some trying and cursing, I discovered the best way to deal with the door struts is to pop them into the hole in the body, and hold the body shell at angle so you can slide the relevant slot in the door over the hanging strut as you manoeuvre it into position. Once the door was solidly in place, I taped it shut and did the next one. There's a square cover that holds the door hinge in position inside the car. I'd scraped the paint off the plastic around the hinge, and left the cover unpainted, so we had a good plastic to plastic contact all around. I then used plastic cement to stick the cover in place, and left it overnight. I figure that sometimes you can get a lot of leverage on doors like this that might pop a superglued cover off, and I wanted to be sure that once the body was in place it wouldn't need to come off again to retrieve a tiny scrap of plastic. The extension of the strut inside the body makes it harder to put the body over the chassis, and you need to flex it rather more, which I also didn't want to have to do too often. Which leaves us here: The last thing I discovered was don't try to put the front wing on when the instructions tell you! I could NOT get it to fit properly onto a bare shell, but for some reason if you attach it last of all, with the chassis in place, it fits perfectly and attaches to the front edge of the chassis plate very nicely. So the body isn't coming off again. Acid test on the doors still to come, but at least the engine cover opens and closes perfectly! bestest, M.

Thanks! Now for a couple of updates in one, since I've been moving along but haven't got around to posting the pics. This is the insides coming together. It's great to have a separate headliner, which can be painted independently. The real thing is more grey Alcantara so this is Vallejo German Grey, heavily drybrushed, decals added and then matt varnished. The silvering on the decals is a lot less obvious when it's the right way up! Back end going together. This is where reading the instructions carefully at the start of the build to figure out all the parts that could be joined to the body and painted yellow at the outset. The instructions would have you add the extreme lower rear of the body shell at the same time as the wing. This way you can glue them on unpainted plastic for strength, prime and paint all together, rather than trying to tack them on at the end. The headlights are very neat, though you do have to wrangle some pretty tiny parts. My "dopping stick" (a cocktail stick with a very small blob of Blu-Tac on the end) came in handy here. It's best to open out the holes for the head light locating pins slightly, and also check the stalks on the back of the lenses for flash that might get in the way. Another mock up. The small "quarter-light" windows behind the doors are a bit tricky, and the instructions don't help much. If you look inside the car, on the interior roofline of the window, you can see a small tab and slot into which the projection on the top of the window fits. You need to engage these with an "up and under" that leaves the bottom edge of the window INSIDE the car body, and then swing the bottom edge out into position. You can't add the windows purely from outside, as the instructions seem to show... The engine completed. There are some wires UNDER the Y-piece that comes out of the back and around the exhaust box, but you can't really see them. The only wires that really make a difference are the two pairs coming from the front of the rocker covers and disappearing back under the intake manifold. I decided to go for raised inlets -- anything that separates the parts a bit will make it harder to spot the slight differences in colour between parts that were sprayed separately. The mirror close up is here for two reasons. First, it's really not so easy to see how the two parts of the mirror fit together in the instructions, and it's slightly counterintuitive when you are telling yourself that the "legs" need to mount onto a flat surface ahead of the door window. This is how they should look. The second reason is that the seam between the small leg of the mirror housing and the main part is the ONLY place on this entire model where I have used any filler at all. The fit is extraordinary. The second picture neatly demonstrates that if you put the mirrors on before fixing the doors, a dispenser of Tamiya 6mm masking tape is exactly the right thickness to prop the doors up with the mirrors vertical while your glue sets. These are attached with "Serious Glue", which takes about 3 minutes to "grab" and a couple of hours to set. But it's a lot tougher and more resilient than super glue, so if you knock a mirror it's not going to "ping off" taking some paintwork with it... Next -- putting it all together. bestest, M.

I think one of their flesh tones is more or less bang on: If that's the "tobacco" colour you're thinking of, of course... I think that's "golden flesh", IIRC. bestest, M.

The Fujimi, Heller and Union kits are all pretty easy to find, certainly this side of the pond, and they all have Gulf livery boxings... if you want one, they are out there. bestest, M.

I guess it isn't, strictly, a Ford. It was designed and built by Alan Mann Racing, with aerodynamics by a guy "on loan" from Ford, and a Ford 3 litre DFV V8. So it's really it's no more a Ford than the Lotus, Brabham, Matra, Tyrell, Lola... etc, etc. F1 cars that were built around the same engine... Maybe that's why... bestest, M.

Odd to see this one pop back to life! Thanks for the kind words, all. Gerry, the interior is done with Vallejo Model Air colours: yellow and fiery red mixed to give the orange, then it's slightly "toned down" (believe it or not) with some of their "medium flesh tone" which is more of a golden brown... bestest, M.

...errr, did you miss the LaFerrari? I don't think there's ANY evidence that Tamiya is losing interest in the plastic car market... bestest, M.

There's a great article on the collection and the "discovery" in the latest "Octane" magazine. One thing to remember is that when he was buying these cars, there was no "classic car" market. Those were the days when a five year old Ferrari 250TR racecar was pretty much worthless after it had been through a couple of privateers' hands. He bought "old" cars, many of which were in pretty dodgy condition when he bought them. It's only following the establishment of the "investment" classic car market that it's become rational to spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on a restoration of the basket cases that many of them are... bestest, M.

Thanks, Mike -- I expect to have this done by the weekend so you can see what the "vanilla" version gives you. If the HD stuff fits (always a question mark, in my experience) then I think it'll certainly benefit the grilles etc, though as you can see there are some reasonably complex shapes to form around the back end. If you do that, though, you will be able to see into the rear suspension structure and engine, which might lead you more towards the full engine kit. BUT... the kit as it stands is very well engineered to give you good replicas of the parts that you can see, but also to have a strong and easy to build chassis/suspension set-up, and a simple and painless way of attaching the body to the chassis. If you open out the back end, you'll be needing to scratch build a lot of more "real-life" structure under there, not just the engine, AND find a way of mounting the rear end of the body to the chassis sturdily. I've looked at a lot of photos, and the engine really does have some sort of "box" around it, and the photos I've found online don't make it at all clear whether that box really has a "floor" around the engine block -- which means that it's really not that easy to see.If you are convinced that the engine sits in the middle of an open bay, then the simpler solution would be to paint the floor black instead of silver. And if you have some good, well-lit overhead pictures to work from that I haven't found, paint some "fake" detailing on that floor in dark shades of grey and silver. You'll only ever see it by looking in from directly above with the engine cover open, so there's only one viewing angle that it needs to look realistic from... See what you think come the weekend... bestest, M.

Well, here's the 650S at the same kind of resolution: And here's a Huracan: I know which one I think it is.... Much as I'd love a 650S from Aoshima, I think the wide black "smile" and the contrast colours of the scoops along the sides would be more visible in the "teaser". Either way, though , I'll buy it, since I think the Huracan is super cool as well... bestest, M.

.

Thanks, Dennis! Something that I only just noticed, looking at those last two pictures, is how much of the "design DNA" of the original Countach is lurking there under the 21st Century aero that will be added soon... bestest, M.

Thanks! The engineering and fit of this kit continues to impress. The red and orange transparencies are provided pre-tinted, which removes one irritating task. I scraped the plating off the top edges of the one-piece light bar, and attached the clear pieces with Formula 560 Canopy glue. The untinted thin pieces at the bottom are handed and need to be checked carefully before applying. They form a < joint with the red parts that fits perfectly. I wish more car models came with a proper headlining piece -- so much easier to paint. This is grey Alcantara, so it's heavily drybrushed, decalled, matt varnished and detail painted. The rear engine bay liner is a neat single piece moulding that responds well to some detail painting. I'm still not quite sure what holds the engine cover hinges, but it won't be long before I find out! Couldn't resist trying it for size. Very thoughtful engineering helps here, too -- the chassis simply clips into just flexible enough retaining brackets front and rear, so it's easy to clip together and take apart. Aoshima provide excellent masks for the clear parts -- just beware that the number and letters of clear part and masks for the three octagonal windows in the engine cover are mixed up (it's obvious which mask really fits which window) and more importantly that the windows fit with the clear edges to the rear, not the black borders as shown. Lots of small bits and pieces still to do, but I really like the way it's coming together. bestest, M.

I think they're pretty good. And although they don't state a scale, it's pretty clear that the Aventador is 1/24; It took my son (an 18 year old Lego expert) about 20 minutes to build and sticker. It went together pretty straightforwardly, and as you can see, compares pretty well shape and detail wise with the Aoshima model that I have on my shelf. If you want a 1/24 McLaren P1 on your shelf in 2015, this may be the best way to get it! bestest, M.

Thanks -- he's an owner with taste and money, you see... Slow but steady progress... A real symphony of black on black, hence the fact I've 'borrowed" the orange e-gear and paddles from a non-SV Murcielago special edition to brighten things up a bit... A lot of the cockpit is black or grey Alcantara, so I've tried to mix up the textures somewhat. The engine out of the box. I'll busy it up a bit, but you really can't see the plug wiring under the intake manifold/airbox... ...and I couldn't resist a little test to see how it all goes together... bestest, M.

Well, I'll be snapping up the i8 and the "Weissach Sports" 918 (which basically seems to be "Martini livery without the licensing fee..."`) as soon as I see them. Plus of course the DS19, but that's OT in a thread about Revell's 2015 releases... bestest, M.

Not as many as usual this year -- I normally reckon on one build per month, but moving house mid year meant quite a long hiatus before the workbench was up and running again. So, with no more excuses, on with the (rather brief) show... Avro 720 Mirage, Polar Lights, 1/25 Fokker E.V, Eduard, 1/48 Toyota 2000GT, Hasegawa, 1/24 Datsun 240ZG, Hasegawa, 1/24 Lexus LFA, Tamiya, 1/24 BMW 507, John Surtees, Revell, 1/24 Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA, Tamiya, 1/24 Jaguar XJ220, Tamiya, 1/24 ...there might be another completion by the end of the holidays, but I suspect what you see here will be the lot for 2014! Happy New Modelling Year 2015, everyone! all the best, M.

That'll go straight to the top of the build pile when it gets here! bestest, M.

Time for a separate thread for this one. Those of you with long memories may recall that I began this back in May, alongside the Tamiya Alfa GTA. Well... this one's finally got back to the bench, after I was distracted by finishing the GTA, the XJ220, moving house etc etc... NIcely detailed parts and good engineering make this a pleasure to build. The engine bay is lined in cigarette foil. I'm not going to town on this one like the XJ220, but I'll busy it up a little. No point in wiring the plugs, though -- they are completely invisible under the inlet manifold. One thing to note, though, if you do decide to wire it, is that the wires come out at 90 degrees to the "obvious" direction... Not many parts in this assembly, but it looks nicely complex. The engine is the chromed kit part, matt varnished and then treated to some Citadel wash. My owner has swapped his shocks for some aftermarket ones in purple and yellow... The body in Giallo Orion. You can see the risks of painting parts separately here: the doors and air scoops are a very lightly different yellow from the body, thanks to different amounts of pearl. It was a lesson learned, hence painting all the XK220 body colour parts as physically close together as possible... bestest, M.

If you've got some eye protection and some rubber or latex gloves, buy some "caustic soda" or "lye" (Sodium Hydroxide or NaOH) crystals for intended for cleaning up the kitchen. A teaspoon or two of crystals in a Hellmans jar half full of water will take all the "chrome" off your plastic in about a minute, and when you carefully pour it out, clean out your sink drainage into the bargain... Just add it carefully, and wash it out well... bestest, M.

Sorry to hear that, but I'm not surprised -- I have a set of nicely painted HD DBS wheels in my spares box because I couldn't get them to fit the tyres acceptably no matter what I tried, either. You could strip the "standard" wheels and do them in a nice dark graphite colour: http://www.celebrityautogroup.com/vehicle-details/2010-aston-martin-dbs-coupe-6-speed-2-door-coupe-893b914c9bbcc744b43b2e9a7f1757e7/ That would be pretty stylish with a black body... ...or: bestest, M.

I completely agree. I use Citadel's washes, drybrushing and shading on all my interiors, engines and panel lines -- with a reasonably deep panel line,the effect is excellent. Because they have a full range of colours: red, purple, green, blue, orange (for yellow), plus four different shades from brown (for flesh) to true black, you can always find a colour that's appropriate for your paint job or engine bay. The blue, purple and brown washes are also really useful for "heat-staining" hot bits under the hood... bestest, M.

Hi, Justin... you're right that those metal decals are a bit tricky... I had a real issue with them on the matt white coated inlet manifold. Having messed up the "6.0 litre" completely, I had to print out a replacement with a "fake" metallic tint. After that I got wary. If I remember rightly, if you look at the decal sheet, you can see that there are a few large areas of clear carrier film in some of the number plates that you aren't going to use. I ended up applying the metal decals to those clear areas, where you can rub them down hard, and then once they were stuck, cutting them out and applying like normal decals. That was essential with the other underbonnet markings on the matt white. Even though they'd probably "take" OK on the clearcoat gloss finish, putting them on with the film carrier allowed me a bit of wiggle room, and time, to position them exactly right, rather than having to commit immediately they touch down. As for the brakes, the disks are carbon ceramic -- I find that Humbrol 56 "Flat Aluminium" is a pretty good match, since you don't really want any kind of shiny metal look... Hope this helps! bestest, M.

Thanks, Justin ... glad you like it! (The leather is "Madagascar Orange", IIRC, though it could be "California Poppy." Either way, it's a Vallejo colour!)) This is where I got mine from: http://www.mediamixhobby.com.sg/shop/fg0004.html#.VI9VYsbzQWw They've sold out of the set I used, but the above is an alternative DBS wheel set... I assume you've had a play with this: http://www.astonmartin.com/en/configure No DBS any more, but the DB9 options give plenty of latitude, and the pictures you generate are invaluable, I found... bestest, M.

Great project... I'll be interested to hear how you get on with the HD wheels. I bought some for mine, but gave up on them when I couldn't make 'em fit the tires at all. In the end I bought some FG Model wheels, which were ace, and the right size. I don't know how available they are these days: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10180875 This is my take on the "Carbon Black": It's done with Zero Paints. The base coat is a plain satin black, but I stirred a small amount of real graphite powder (used as lubricant and from a hardware store) into it before spraying. Then I rubbed the base coat with an old T-shirt to shine it up slightly, and finally hit it with the clear coat, which I tinted with black as well. So it's a real "Hotblack Desiato" number in black with black highlights over black... Hence the rather brighter interior -- which is a real option, by the way: bestest, M.