Matt Bacon

Bill... since you've been up close and personal with one recently... For the larger "mouth", does the whole nose of the bonnet flare a bit to form it, or is it just a larger hole in the same shaped nose? It also looks as though the lower lip drops more, with squarer corners, and the upper curve is closer to the S1 shape. Just wondering whether, if you wanted to do the conversion, you'd need to Milliput around the nose and build up a whole new interior and exterior contour, or is just a matter of expanding the hole and blending in the new edges? I somehow seem to have acquired a couple of scrap e-type coupe bodies, so the cut and shut for extra length is feasible... best, M.

Wow... I never knew such a thing existed! Great build up here: https://culttvman.com/main/michael-danz-chitty-chitty-bang-bang/ Of course, you could also build the original illustrated book version: https://www.theguardian.com/childrens-books-site/gallery/2015/feb/22/chitty-chitty-bang-bang-50th-anniversary-ian-fleming-john-burningham which would involve cutting up several Bentleys in your scale of choice: 1.32, 1/24 or 1/12. Or even the actual Zborowski Chitty Chitty Bang Bang racing cars: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chitty_Bang_Bang Just need a big Mercedes chassis and a WW1 vintage aero engine... It would be nice to see the movie car back, though... best, M.

I thought I'd WiP this one, since some of your may be interested in comparing and contrasting the Matchbox and Tomy kits and the end results. Plus I'm going to use the Tomy kit as inspiration for some scratch details on the Matchbox... In case you hadn't guessed, Tomy in white, Matchbox in red! You can see the slight differences in interpretation of the shapes: the Tomy tends towards flatter plane surfaces radiused and blended into each other, while the Matchbox has compound complex curves -- see especially the front wings and the shape of the bonnet/hood. The difference in engineering is also visible. The Tomy has its interior "pod" moulded with the main floor and wings, and a separate outer body with firewall and fuel tank which drops over it, while the Matchbox body is built up and then an interior tub is sandwiched between body and chassis. No contest in terms of detail and refinement in the chassis and engines -- Tomy wins hands down. The metal parts are really, really good. There's also sensible choice of materials -- the springs are a stiff but flexible plastic that the axles just clip into. The "Matchbox" may also be suffering by comparison because it's a later Chinese edition of the kit, which is slightly softer in detail than the UK Matchboxes I've built, and moulded using slightly weird hard, shiny plastic. First trial fit. I wonder whether the Tomy was also available as a prebuilt model, because you can almost fit it together without any kind of glue, with press fit parts and neatly moulded clips in strategic places (eg the metal axles clip into the plastic springs). I don't think the Matchbox kit will disgrace itself, especially with the Tomy alongside to provide 3D 1:1 reference for extra bits! Best, M.

This is the Fujimi: You can buy here for about $28: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10182381 It's curbside and not super complex, so it could easily originate with Marui. The lights don't pop up, though, so if the Marui kit actually does what it shows on the box, it isn't the same one. It doesn't have any compromises to fit in a battery and motor either, that I can see. best, M.

The one that Fujimi is currently selling in regular and GTS flavours has no flares or wing, as far as I can see. Was thinking of getting one last weekend... best, M.

If you're interested in this thread, you might like this: This month's subscriber cover shot with adaptation for iPhone from the very excellent Octane magazine ... best, M.

It’s a brilliant kit... just go for the cheapest box you can find. The trickiest area is the back end, where you’re building a scale thickness frame around the engine, locating the turbos and exhausts and constructing the suspension, all from many separate high-fidelity parts, and you only know you’ve got it exactly right when all four wheels sit squarely on the ground at the end. It’s probably the most difficult bit of “kit sssembly” I’ve ever done (any more difficult “builds” I’ve done have been self inflicted attempts to make things up as I went along) You won’t regret it if you buy one... best, M.

Beautiful, for sure, but at €200, I think I’ll use the pictures as detailing inspiration for my from-the-stash Revell XKSS/Lindberg D-Type cross-kit... Best, M.

You mean this one? ..or the 2005 GT? I only ask because I know there is a 1/25 2005 Ford GT out there with big pimped wheels (edit... and can-Con found it, above), which I had to avoid while I was chasing down a Johnny Lightning kit of the same to do this: For either, I think the kit wheels are OK... best, M.

One of Airfix's excellent 1970s new tool 1/32 cars (not to be confused with the Highway Pioneers style brass-era oldies, or the slot-car derived 60s racers)... Left to right: the Airfix M K3 Magnette, another one of those mid-70s vintage sportsters (along with a Bugatti 35 and Vauxhall Prince Henry); the Alfa; and Matchbox's Aston Martin Ulster. Now, on with a Jaguar SS100 and MG TD from Matchbox... best, M.

Thanks, all! The scale isn't so odd when you consider that the only direct pocket money competitors were Airfix's 1/32 offerings, which included a number of kits first offered as slot racing models. 1/32 has always been the dominant slot scale in the U.K. best, M.

It looks rather like one of the less successful coach builder's efforts at a Ferrari America... lots of nice individual details, but for me they don't quite "gel"... and there are too many of them in one car! For an alternative example, Google "Maserati 5000GT." Mostly hideous, especially the Frua. And then compare with the Touring 3500GT coupe. "Less is more" applies in car design, too... On the whole, it seems to me you should never let the client get too involved in coachbuilding. best, M

Another of Matchbox's excellent 1/32 car kits -- 30s sports cars are a big theme in their line-up. I did a bit of plumbing and detailing under the bonnet -- particularly adding the steering column, without which it looks very odd under there. The only flaws I can see with the kit are that the engine should really be a bit longer and closer up to the radiator, which would give more room for the ancillaries around it, and it doesn't quite capture the low, wide stance of the real thing. I think if I was doing another one not out of the box, I'd try and taper the bonnet down to a slightly shortened radiator... best, M.

This one of the earlier ones painted up: It's true that the kit parts don't always quite match the illustrations, but they scrub up pretty well all the same... best, M.

The whole album (70 or so pictures) is here: https://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/frame/slideshow?key=XqF6PS&autoStart=1&captions=0&navigation=0&playButton=0&randomize=0&speed=3&transition=fade&transitionSpeed=2&clickable=1 Enjoy! best, M.

Details, details... best, M.

POOOWWWEEEEERRRRR! MG TF Lotus Elan AM V8 240Z Pair of Jensens, 60s and 70s style Jowett Jupiter flat four: these you don't see every day... Lotus Carlton Lancia "Testa Rossa" ...and the Mustang version. best, M.

190SL, beautifully presented... Fabulous Lancia Fulvia. If I can't have the E-type, I'll have this... Another not-so-common type: the Jensen Healey. One of a few hot rods... The Sammio Spyder, whatever that may be. The only Ferrari on the field, except it's not, of course... Great colour scheme on this Elan. 356 Super 90. Lovely and timeless... best, M.

This is a fun day out -- an enthusiasts show with no competition and no entry cost for owners or visitors. Just people who like cool cars getting together on a Yorkshire afternoon. There's a pretty eclectic selection to be found, including some rarities... MG TF -- one of several. Nippy little stalwart of the UK scene... Less well-known outside these shores, but this Jowett, and the others here were built locally, well into the 50s. As it happens, I'm finishing one of these at the moment, so some 1:1 reference for the AM Ulster was appreciated. Needs no introduction, but a beautiful example. Classic in every way This is a rarity -- the Jensen GT And so's this: a Borgward Isabella The forgotten hot hatch - Sunbeam Lotus. Classic perfection... best, M.

Very nice, Jonathan. Aoshima, I guess? Nice and clean and a very zingy red, for a change. Most all the GT86s round here are black, though I have seen the special orange/copper colour once. Great job! All the best, M.

Doh... now do I feel stupid? Guess who posted the previous Auto ID which featured the Ford Facel Comete...? Me. No wonder it looked vaguely familiar, but it does make me wonder about the state of my brain in my advancing years... ;-( best, M.

That really is beautiful, Jurgen. I can see why the original would have inspired you to want to get it right, but it looks like a truly mammoth task, with a stellar result at the end. I don't suppose you took some moulds from the final body before building the rest did you? ;-P Good to see you back again! All the best, M.

I thought it had so many Pininfarina details that it had to be one of his, but despite having a vast tome with every one of his designs in it, I couldn't find it, so I guess it's someone copying (err... being "inspired by") some of his Ferraris. Then I thought maybe a Pegaso, but no. It's very clean-lined, and somehow a bit like a tinplate toy "essence of 50s European GT"... So I'd love to know as well! best, M.

They're all Bellissima, obviously, but I'd take that Fiat Dino Spyder home in a heartbeat! Looks like nicely Italian weather as well... what a good day out. best, M.

If you've got a DSLR, then you'll be able to access and control everything you need to. The first essential is LOTS of light. If possible, light from the sides as well as above, and if you have the option, use daylight or cool white LED bulbs. (If this isn't an option, you can correct the colour in a picture editing program or set your camera to compensate with "white balance") Regular household lighting will have a yellowish tinge. Use a 50mm or so lens (the standard regular lens that comes with the camera is usually 55mm), or set your zoom to around 45mm. Put the camera on the tripod, and set it up so the model pretty much fills the image frame. Then set your camera to "Aperture Priority" and f/32 (if you have it, 28, 25 or whatever the biggest number you can get is if you don't). Now, set the camera to use timer, not take a picture when you press the button. Mine has a 10s and a 2s timer: use the shortest one you have. Line up the shot, press the button to autofocus and shoot, and step back. The exposure will be long-ish -- maybe 1/2 second depending on how bright your lights are. The small aperture gives you depth of field, and the timer means you don't wobble the camera during the long exposure. Good luck! best, M.