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Exotics_Builder

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Everything posted by Exotics_Builder

  1. The Revell Camaro LS's are great options with the tranny attached to the engine rather than a transaxle as in the Corvette. The Polar Lights GTO LS engine is NOT (IMO) a good option. Another option is the Revell 99 Silverado which depicts a cast iron version of the LS, but still usable. In some cases you will have to work the intake/induction systems to fit what you want and also what you want to do to shroud the coil packs. The 2010 Camaro and Silverado are auto transmissions. The 2002 Camaro has a manual trans. Also the recent reissue of the SSR would have the Sliverado LS engine as well (again auto trans) HTH
  2. Also the reason why it looked flat on the panel from my photos and I thought it was metallic. An interesting approach. Plus some decent detail photos on that site for those interested.
  3. OK. A little sniffing around and I found the Hot Rod Institute photo archive of the Rat Roaster prep and paint. It appears they used the polished body metal, masked it, highlighted it and then clear coated. Here's some selected photos: And here's the link: http://www.hotrod.edu/siterun_data/photo_galleries/?image_category=41
  4. I recollected real, but it was a year and a quarter ago. But the more I look at the hi-res photos, it appears to be painted. So, My put is that it is painted. The tell tale piece is the end of the "chrome" spear appears level with the body line. Looking to see if I have any more info.
  5. Here is what I took at the 2011 IHOBBY show with the Rat Roaster on display: I still have the hi-res images on my computer. HTH Gerry
  6. Well, it is a sales only event for some years now. The model contest was dropped a few years back. The February one is the February 24 at the usual venue, DuPage County Fairgrounds, Exhibition Building, 2015 West Manchester Rd, Wheaton IL
  7. I got some preliminary information. It appears it will again be the Protar Kit. Still trying to get more info.
  8. Well almost finished. Just a few tweaks to do in the engine bay and a final polish. Had to make some adjustments from what I originally intended to do. The concept was to update the 1966 El Camino to Pro-Touring (or Resto-Mod) with suspension, drive train, wheels, tires and brakes. I started this about 11 months ago as a club project. So, using the base kit big block, I essentially made it a ZZ-502 with modern Holley double pumper on a high rise manifold. I added an Accel coil (boy is it big and hard to find a mount point) and a Holley electric fuel pump. I used the kit suspension parts and treated them with an anodized finish to replicate replacement sway bars and springs. I took the base drive shaft and covered with Modelers Kevlar decals to do a composite drive shaft. I finished off with adding headers, H-tube exhausts with cat converters, electric push fan, and a power steering pump. For the body, I shaved the emblems and added flush door handles for a cleaner look. I frenched the radio aerial (power of course) and added the Concept Camaro side view mirrors. On this model, I decided to experiment with all shaker can on a two tone exterior. I primered the body using Tamiya fine white primer. Then I used Testors White Lightning Lacquer for the bottom and Flaming Orange for the top. To accent the separation line, I added three separate decals, bronze (microscale), fluorescent red and fluorescent yellow (Modelers) that I had in the decal stash. I then covered with Testors Wet Look Clear and polished out. On the interior, I detailed it out, adding new instrument cluster, modern radio, speakers and power windows. I drilled the door panels for lock knobs, and shaved off the window cranks. I added Concept Camaro seats with integral seat belts. Wheels and tires were from an Aoshima set plus Fujimi disc brakes that were adapted to fit the Revell suspension. This will also be used as an example for a future club seminar on adding modern wheels to American car kits. The larger Camaro Concept wheels I originally wanted to use were a tight fit in the rear and would have required flaring the wheel wells or the frame would need altering. As a major project at work chewed heavily into my modeling time, I decided to go an alternate route. The wheels I choose were from my stash and selected last Friday (down to the wire). Here are some photos of the model:
  9. For Pegasus, I would recommend Scale Dreams: http://www.scaledreams.com For the others, I have not yet found a consistent US outlet, so you have to go offshore. Also, many of the sets above are sold out or discontinued. Some manufacturers (like Aoshima and Fujimi) do these in limted runs and there can be a long time before a reissue, if at all. So, be aware, watch them and be ready to buy if a set pops up you want. I would recommend looking at: HobbyLink Japan: http://www.hlj.com or HobbySearch Japan: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/car/ I've also been told Hobbyeasy in Hong Kong is good and has better prices, but I have never used them: http://www.hobbyeasy.com
  10. As do I. The clear coat before gives you the ability to polish to a smooth surface to avoid silvering. The clear coat after protects the decals. I have decals degrade on older models where I didn't clear over, in particular, white colors yellowing. I would clear coat even contigency stickers as it would not be that noticeable if you apply a thin layer. And many modern race cars have wraps.
  11. I built the kit back in the early 90's. I shave the trim, so no problem there. It has the old style chassis with everything pretty much molded in. I think I still have one unbuilt, but will have to check when I get home.
  12. The president of LMMCC lives in Oak Lawn. There are members who come from the south suburbs such as Frankfort. And there are members who come from Northwest Indiana.
  13. So, at this point we really don't know what Revell of Germany is planning. Larry has brought it to our attention early. And I thank him for that. Even RoG's recent newsletter is sketchy on the Ferrari. As LArry has not yet posted a link to it, may I do so: http://www.revell-news.de/display.php?M=55486&C=114eb32970db945cfd3c0db492318f9f&S=163&L=21&N=59
  14. I found the reference, it is actually on the Protar kit instructions. It is chassis number 3851 and has some history. barchetta.com is a good place to look it up. 3851GT was delivered to Jo Schlesser on September 11th, he finished the Tour de France 2nd OA, the GTO was involved in a very bad crash and was t-boned, it was send back to the factoyr for rebuilt and was sold to Paolo Colombo, he raced it in 1963 with great success, like Ernesto Prinoth in 1964 and 1965. In 1965 the GTO was sold to Fabrizio Violati. Here is a link to more info: http://www.barchetta.cc/english/all.ferraris/detail/3851gt.250gto.htm Supposedly the car has had multiple "facelifts".
  15. Amen to that Tim. For example, I have the MFH 250 GTO, but the Fujimi or previous Italeri with Aftermarket (including Norm's or Harold's Ferrari engines) make for a much more fun build experience. I don't have the refernce anymore as I looked it up when I bought the orignal Protar version of that. The photos of the repaired car show the squared off rear end, which is the most glaring difference than what you see on many GTO's. As you know, all GTO's were hand built and there are differences in each body. I will see if there is anything in my Ferrari GTO book.
  16. Yes he did! Unfortunately, Scale Kraft went OOB in 2005/6 time frame. Harold Bradford is working on one, but I don't have a date on when it will be available.
  17. Can always find room to add a Lusso and a few others. Just got the 599 GTO, SA Aperta and F12 Berlinetta. Just a little bit of my Ferrari stash:
  18. Double that. I have a resin Lusso that needs a donor kit, but it would be SUPER to have a plastic Lusso in 1/24
  19. Hobby Design and KA Models offer PE/Detail sets for both the California and Italia. The Hobby design set is more readily availble. However, best to order these off shore (Japan or Singapore). There are a couple of EBAY stores and there is also HobbyLink Japan in Japan and Mediamix Hobby in Singapore that carry tons of aftermarket.
  20. Hobby Design, but their wheels can be a problem at times for clean up Aoshima which sells some of their wheel sets separately Fujimi which also sells some of their wheel sets separately Tuner Model Manufactory which makes selected wheel and rim sets in various degrees of complexity (such as separate lug nuts and rim bolts) FG Models which has some very nice modern wheel sets Scale Productions which includes wheels as part of their offerings A+ Club which makes a few wheel sets Keep in mind, many of the above are geared to a Fujim/Aoshima or Tamiya mounting to the spindle and will take work. Some have no mounting components and you are on your own. Also, some, such as FG Model and Tuner Model manufactory don't include tires or you'll have to buy a separate tire set (as does Hobby Design). You can also raid the Revell California Wheel or like series to use the modern wheels/tires they provide. Here are a very few examples of the wheels offered:
  21. Now that the big project at work is over and I’m using up some vacation days, I am catching up on the 66 El Camino Pro-Touring. I have a week and a half to complete this for the club project. Hopefully, I’ll get it done.
  22. Chuck has done an excellent quick review of them and I agree with his synopsis. Note in his review that the Fujimi kit allows you to pose the doors open or closed whereas the Aoshima kit has working hinges. I put mine aside, however, to work on the recent RoG SA Aperta and started analyzing the Fujimi F12 Berlinetta I got delivered just before Christmas.
  23. I remember you from the time I spent in PSAMA. We are in planning to move back.
  24. He still is a member. But he really had limited inventory and had to store stuff away at the time of shutting down.
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