johnbuzzed

That's really cool! I guess you made your own decals... are they painted or computer-generated?

Well, it's probably easier to get time payments over 5 or more years for a $40+K new car than to get any kind of time payment arrangements for a classic car. I don't think too many lending institutions would give a loan for a classic car and personal loans for something like that wouldn't be easy to get. New car purchase? Sure!- we'll just repo if you miss enough payments.

If I were to build a Factory Five Cobra replica, would I be able to enter the finished replica in a model car contest? It was in kit form and it's not the real thing, but a replica (albeit full-size). There would probably be discrepancies when compared to the actual Shelby-built Cobra, much like those in many kits that are in production today.

I'll bet if it were painted flat black, had less shiny stuff and a different firewall/cowl, it would be acceptable as a rat rod.

Did anyone else notice that the price for the kits was just $1.00? Even then, that was cheap- the local discount store wanted at least $1.59 for those kits.

I wonder if the manufacturer realizes what "86" means in American English slang... But the engine kit would be cool. I know some of the big 3 domestic kit manufacturers had parts paks, etc, available with engines, but none have engines vintage early '70's and newer.

From what source, may I ask?

That's one very nice looking model. Would be cool if Round 2 did reissue the kit, with the trailer. What paint did you use- the color's perfect for that car.

Keep in mind that on the actual car, the vinyl top was used to hide ugly bodywork- the rear window is from (if I remember correctly) a Dodge Charger... 500, I think. I know it's not a stock Road Runner unit.

My first thought was "OOOOOOOOOOOOOhhhhhhhhhhhh lookatthat!!!" Then, I saw the price. For a few bucks more, I'm sure I can find a kit with similar rolling stock and some other stuff for the parts bin.

Well, it all depends upon the dictionary that one uses to see the definition of "dragster". And, unfortunately, my browser here at work wouldn't let me see the pictures, so I'll check them out later tonite. But I have seen your work in the past, Curt, so I know this is gonna be a nice build.

Okey-dokey !!!

No, I don't have the abilities or time to design a model. But I know what I want (and what I hope to find) in a NEW, never-before-issued kit: Fidelity to the real, actual, full-size subject in shape, dimensions and proportions- there is plenty of reference material to be found for the designers and engineers to use. Overall accurate details without a lot of tiny, fiddly, flash-encrusted parts. Parts that fit together well without a lot of (re)work. Plans/instructions with no errors that don't need an engineering degree to decipher. Nice, clean chrome; nice, thin clear plastic windows. Thin, opaque decals that are of the correct colors, patterns and dimensions and respond well to water. A couple of building options, like wheels and tires, headers, induction, scoops/spoilers/body components. And, not just the same ol' same ol' subjects. We're getting a lot of the above, but not always in the same new kit. Consistency counts.

Familiar story (married life is all about compromise ); very nice model. Great color combination. Gotta love those Tamiya paints and the way they polish out.

So far it looks pretty good. I hope to see it at some of the local shows soon. You might consider getting an inexpensive food strainer thing at the dollar store (they look like they're made from screen door material) to use when you're working with parts at the sink- it could prevent lost parts in the future. I use one and have yet to lose a part.

It's a matter of opinion and here, you and I can choose to disagree. Let's leave it at that.

"It just comes down to what you like and what kind of build you are doing is all. Urethane clears they do have a grade level on shine and how they come out with work to them, also what kind of build you are doing and such. If you are looking for a factory stock from 1930s to 1990s you may not use it as it would give to much of a shine or you can use what is called a deadner in the clear to kill the shine to help with the look. If you are doing 1 off AMBR style cars of today you better either learn how to use it or do a lot of work to get the shine of them cars on the hobby clear." So, let's see. I can do some work on a "hobby clear" to get what seems to be a more realistic, in-scale finish. I guess that means polishing and waxing. Or, I can spend a lotta money to get paints and other related, necessary chemicals that were really never meant to be used by hobbyists as well as the necessary equipment to protect myself and the environment to obtain what seems to be a grossly out-of-scale, over-the-top gloss finish that is rarely seen even in the world of 1:1 showcars... I think I'll stick with the basics, thank you. This hobby gets way too complex as it is. Who needs more?

In my humble opinion, if one can't obtain a smooth, shiny, realistic (read: "in scale) finish with those paints that have been designed for use in our hobby that we have available, I would say "Return to brush-painting military models with Testors flat Pla paints." Seriously, some people go 'way overboard looking for a nice, smooth finish. I don't get it.

All too often lately, that's how a lot of my stuff goes. I have a simple idea for a nice, easy, fun build, which eventually turns far more complex than I thought it would. Could this be an obsession or a compulsion?

You mean that's not on the real car???

Ummm, I don't think so. I am a little bit more than twice your age, I was the head judge at the L.I.A.R.S. Challenge(until we moved to SC) and it doesn't make a difference to me what kind of car I might be judging- they all get judged by the same standards. You might want to really look at your "factory stock Ford Taurus" to see why you think it "will never EVER win". I have judged, been judged, went home with four awards for four entries and I have been skunked more than once. I have taken first place in categories in which mine was the only entry(which is kinda embarrassing). I don't know all about judging but I've been on both sides often enough to have heard it all about judges, judging, contest entrants and their entries. In my opinion, judging is purely arbitrary, seemingly heavily influenced by tides, astrology, sunspots, phases of the moon and the state of mind of those judges at that time. IPMS or not, there are no hard and fast rules and regulations that are used by all model contests. Not all contests are judged; some winners are determined by the popular vote of those who did enter that contest or even those who merely were in attendance at that contest. I once participated in an event at a MASSCAR exhibition called "You Be the Judge." Three teams, with three experienced judges per team, checked out three models to determine 1st, 2nd and 3rd. The results -surprise!!!- differed for each team. Go figure. I have seen a judge pick up a model (mine) that was displayed on a clear platform which was raised almost two inches above a clean mirror that was larger than the model itself- you could see everything on the model. The entry form that was with the model indicated "Please do not touch". These guys were eating nice, olive-oily NY pizza shortly before judging. Duhhh... It wouldn't be fair to offer an opinion as to why a model did or didn't do well at any particular contest by photos alone. Photos can change a models true appearance- I've seen the results. The model really needs to be seen up-close-and-personal. If you really want to know why your model didn't do well at a contest, you should quietly, politely ask the judges. They should be able to explain their decision and advise what you might have done to obtain better results. One thing I do know is that you need to have your basic modeling skills nailed down. A shiny paint job and all the glittery P.E. stuff available won't compensate for loose parts, sloppy glue application or seams where there should be none. I don't build just for contests. A majority of my builds are not what would be considered contest-quality, but I enjoyed building them. When I set out to build a contest-quality model, I put my heart and soul into it. I'll make pages of notes, find reference material, amass all components and raw material and put my best effort into the build. If (I realize that) I mess something up, I'll do it again until I get it "right". It works for me, but it's a lot like work.

Very cool- I like it a lot. For traction aids, Mopars of that era made good use of pinion snubbers- they're still popular items.

Check out the review written by Tom Valenta in the latest issue of SA. It should be helpful.

May he rest in peace.

I still have a couple of cans of that. I use it on military stuff; particularly, the B-2 and F-117.