69NovaYenko

Very nice job..I like this build.

IMHO I think the left rim on the bottom row will look best for this conversion. Think I`ll eep a eye on this build..I like the concept

Well I knew it was a long shot but I wanna thank you folks for checking any way

That what I was thinking...please that a look...if you come across one I`d be interested in doing a bite of trading out of my miscellaneous parts stash. Provided you have a mind to do some trading 🙂

Has the Edelbrock Smoky Yunick Ram SY-1 SY1 intake manifold small Chevy 350 ever been kitted or resin cast?

Yesterday we spotted this on my banks parking lot with a mounted 50 cal (owner says it has no firing pin)...but at 1st glance it appears to be one heck of a bank robbery get-away car...Lol

There`s a local mom-pop auto parts store in my neck of the woods who will mix small batches of automotive paint for touch up purposes. They have all the factory paint codes & will mix any color from the early 50ties to present day. You can order from a pint to a gallon of the custom mix. The paint is reasonably priced. And, for a few bucks more they will even put it in a 12 or 16 ounce aerosol can. Check with you local "INDEPENDENT" auto parts stores if you can find one in your area. Just a thought....

Wow..that`s one sweet looking bitching ride..I also have owned two 1:1 Javelin's back in the day..a `68 and a `70. You have also been lucky to be able to snag a very RARE Johan kit for this awesomely outstanding build!! ?

Revell `71 Mustang 351 Release date

In the day I recall guys had a back and forth to work, grocery getting, take your girl to the movies daily driver. But come Saturday & Sunday they would be tearing up the asphalt at the local drag strip. Can anyone with a better memory than mine recall what NHRA classes these street legal daily drivers may have ran in during the late 60ties & early 70ties. I want to replicate the correct class letters/numbers on the windshield of the car I`m currently building.

Truth be told when you consider the time & effort that the caster puts into popping a body or part they should want to put out a quality product. If nothing else they need to consider what these kind of hiccups do to their brands name. I do understand that pressure pots `aint cheap by no means nor is the resin however, neither is the price casters sell their products for. If it`s the only game in town then you SHOULD want it to be then best thing since sliced bread NOT "it will do" because it better than nothing! Most of us are willing to pay an upscale price for an upscale body or part. The now defunct Model Hause is a good example of QUALITY bodies and parts! Their resin products were OUTSTANDING in every sense of the word !! I like many others, were willing to pay the asking price because the end product was well worth it! Oooh..how I miss Model Hause..I hope he & his spouse are enjoying their retirement. As I type this I have a resin body on my work bench that revealed it was full of pinholes once I started sanding it. I also discover it SHRANK in length and width once I attempted to drop it on the recommended donor kit chassis. With absolute certainty I will not purchase another resin kit from this caster...EVER AGAIN!!! That`s my humble opinion and my 2 cents on the matter. On that note I will now step off my soap box and gladly relinquish the floor to others.

All the aforementioned solutions are valid ways for dealing with you pinhole issue. I currently have a resin cast body on the bench. The more I`d sand it the more pinhole would pop up; in fact some were potholes. I resolved the issue by using Mr Surfacer500 on the tip of a toothpick to fill the larger pot holes and Dupicolor 2-1 Filler Sandable Primer to cover the tiny potholes. Note: Actually any brand of sandable scratch filler primer will work..I just use the Duplicolor `cause that's what my nearby auto parts store carry's and it does a great job of filling the itty-bitty pinholes. I`m just putting option on the table for you to consider. Note: The three tiny holes you see in the body are witness marks I drilled to assist in correctly placing the resin door handles and photo etched door lock and fender badging at a later date. Also be mindfully with the rattle can filler sandable primer and spay in light coats so you don't bury any of the cast body details. After all the nozzle on this can is meant to spray 1 to 1 bodies and will dump a lot of primer if your heavy handed. I suggest you sneak up on it. Mist light coats on problem areas then let it dry and lightly sand..then mist coat again and let it dry and again lightly sand until the tin holes no longer rear their little ugly heads. Repeat until your satisfied with the final results. Good luck.

Sandboarder my modeling brother from the land down under the Mr Hobby Super Clear is looks quite impressive. Ive seen it in the paint rack at my LHS. I`ll have to pick up a bottle and give a try on my next lacquer paint job.

Plowboy I appropriate you setting me straight on the fact that Pledge WILL yellow over time..particularly when sprayed over "white" color coats.

StevenGuthmiller many thanks for the followup tips. After seeing your results I`ll have to give it a try on my next lacquer project.?