khier

This was exactly the reason why I thought I should gice it a try.

Hi All, Every once in a while I remember TKM kits I bought in tragic moments. I put the kits on the table and start to wonder if it makes sense to try to build them. I mean I may go all the way despite the time and effort if there is a light at the end of the tunnel. But each time I judge them the tunnel looks dark as a black hole. I am curious to learn about your experience with "Totally C(K)rap Models" kits.

Why should I ? I already have mine No, seriously, despite the flaws and accuracy issues with R&R models, they offered by far the largest program of resin kits for years. The program contains unique subject found nowhere else. The station wagon series is a demosntrative example of this. What happened to all these moulds and masters?? Isn't it a pitty to see them vanish?? There are more than a possibility to preserve and restore this collection. The easiest is to prepare new moulds using existing masters.

Steve removed it from his inventory list so probably it is sold out.

Well, it is a lengthy issue. First, you need to learn few things about airbrushes? Air brush are classified into two main categories:1-External mix, 2-Internal mix. External mix are simple, cheap and easy to use. But they do not offer control on the size of the spray, and usually of poor(er) spray quality. They can be used for area painting like model cars. However, expect more effort and time in sanding/polishing. Internal mix guns are the opposite in everything. They are elaborate, expensive (5-10 times, or more). You can control everything with them. Therefore they are ideal (actually the only way) for camouflage. They are definitely a plus, but not a must. If you think of an airbrush you must have a continuous source of high pressure air of at least 2 bar (30 psi). Choose a good quality compressor and refrain from beginner garbage because they are not worth. The same goes for air/gas cans. Mulit-purpose compressors from the hardware stores are even a better choice, but they are NOISY. If you can live with that forget expensive airbrush compressors and get a decent 1-2 HP compressor capable of 8 bar and you will be happy.

But the most important things they failed to predict are how ugly and boring car designs are going to be in the 21st century, and that spandex is not the end of the story, rather only the beginning.

Well, no body could predict the humanity to degenerate to the level where to have Miley Cyrus and Justin Bieber considered as celeberities.

How can you be so sure?? Maybe they are here among us but they do not want to show up in order not to distort the space-time continuum

I check the contents before leaving the shop. Online orders are not checked prior to delivery of course,

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I am not a Revell dealer, but really why do not you save yourself the time and money and build the new kit instead?

Did any one see Marty Mcfly cruising across Hill Valley in his Delorean?

The stainless steel effect are fantastic. How did you do it? Brush??

For that you will need the new kit, or perhaps photo etch parts. http://www.hobbylinc.com/model-car-garage-1955-bel-air-detail-set-for-rmx-plastic-model-vehicle-accessory-kit-1:25-scale-2069 '55 Chevy brouchure shows two tone paint scheme for the Bel Air similar to the box art. http://www.oldcarbrochures.com/static/NA/Chevrolet/1955_Chevrolet/1955_Chevrolet_Prestige_Brochure/1955%20Chevrolet%20Prestige-06-07.html Personally I have never seen such a thing before, but perhaps the experts here can comment on this.

How many kits went into this?

Franklin Mint made a whole defect patch (or several patches). The black paint used to chip off chrome plated (or silver colored) doors. These defects put the price nearly to the ground. For us, car building guys, a repair is routine work, and you can have a superb model for a fair price.

A manager does not have to be a jerk. A clever manager does not have to cut costs with and without reason. A manager is a decision maker who has an overview of the whole thing. He does not have to be qualified in the business either. But he MUST consult the spicialists in technical matters to know what the hell he is doing.

My pleasure. As for the interior colors you will not be making a horrible mistake if you apply shades of exterior colors for the interior. It is also safe to use antique gold for yellow cars. It is also helpful to sneak in the Die Cast world to have a live idea about color combintion in contrast to vague expressions like Harvest Gold, sea mist green,.... etc. BUT if you want to be 100% correct and authentic check this:http://www.55-57chevys.com/. It shows green/beige vinyl with straw pattern cloth for harvest gold/india ivory exterior. If you dig the reference section you will see sample colors and fabrics, and explanation of how this color scheme is applied. http://www.swapmeetmodels.co.uk/danbury-mint-1955-chevrolet-convertible-cast-model-road-harvest-gold-india-ivory-1955-124th-scale-p-8638.html

I would have left the original rear fenders for a "what if" look. It would save also a lot of work to make the wood trim conformed with the fender lines.

I am pretty sure a clear body version will follow soon after the kit is released.

Looks very nice, Art. Meanwhile I found the following solution to turn plastic into wood: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Warbird-Decals-1-48-BLACK-WOOD-GRAIN-ON-CLEAR-DECAL-/191370884586 and also: http://www.uschivdr.com/shopping-categories/shop-wood-grain-decals/ As for the conversion, it seems the whole door has to be scratchbuilt, either by forming real wood as the real car, or plastic strips and apply wood decales (or whatever technique). Walid

You can finish it in India Ivory/Harvest Gold combination. A very nice combination IMHO http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Archive/Event/Item/1955-CHEVROLET-BEL-AIR-2-DOOR-HARDTOP-43962 Or if you cannot stand that kit at all, Revell released a new Bel Air HT version a couple of years ago. http://www.revell.com/model-kits/cars/85-4295.html#.VP2Z6deSFI8

How would you replicate the grains in the trim? I did not notice the problem with the door panel. I guess it would be easier to scratchbuild the complete door with styrene strips using the original door panel as a template.

It seems everything below the front side window frame and frontwards, to be precise, the door panels and fron clip, have to be replaced in the mercury by the Ford parts. The wood trim has finally to be introduced to the front door panels. This is might be not bad because it will help hiding the traces of the surgery. However, I cannot imagine how to match the door trim with the original trim of the kit. Now wouldn't it be clever if Revell used the parts for a '49-'51 Ford wooldy? That would save me a lot of work.

The question itself is too general to have a conclusive answer. We have first to better define how the "best" is evaluated. Is it about accuracy? Interesting subjects? Number of released models/year? Kit details? Level of exclusiveness? For example, Japanese kits have probably the best quality when it comes to injection quality and fit accuracy. But they are usually simplified and rarly have under hood details. Trumpeter's 1960 Pontiacs are probabaly the most detailed kits ever made (except for Fujimi EM Porsche 356 series). They are also the biggest joke in the history of model car kits when it comes to accuracy and proportions.