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khier

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Everything posted by khier

  1. Art, Do you really think Revell will have hard time selling '58 or `59 Ford? You can take the sales of the '59 Skyliner as a reference. If they can sell this ancient kit, why would it be difficult to sell a newely tooled '59? I am not talking about Mercury (although I think a '59 Mercury will sell as good), I am talking about Ford. And you may add '54-'59 Continental to the list. Revell AG sells 1/24 kits for about $25 in Germany, including 19% VAT. This includes the models produced with Revell US tools, like the '58 Corvette. Revell US has been selling Revell AG kits for years at the usual price level as their own kits. Why would the Price jump to $35 when the same practice continues? Walid
  2. No, I am not aware of that. I have just read it here. Walid
  3. Nice model. If I am allowed to advice I would suggest sanding/polishing the paint, use a suitable glue for clear parts, and if you can, BMF will improve the result significantly. Walid
  4. I really appreciate Revell's efforts with the '57 Ford Custom and Del Rio. However, isn't it time to have an '58 and/or '59 Ford? Perhaps Revell can make use of the tools and research that went in the Impala to bring a lower level '58 Chevy , or a decent '58 Pontiac/Olds/Buick, and possibly a Cadillac? I mean when was the last time when these kits were made? I will not be surprised if they date back to the original model year. Walid
  5. Anyone uses 5 Seconds fix in building models? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fv6JJPOhE9U
  6. and in 10 years or so we will stop buying model kits. We will by CAD files, print them on our desktop 3D printers and start building.
  7. This is what you need: http://www.resinrealm.net/STAR Models/53_Customline_2dr_Sed.html Or this http://www.resinrealm.net/STAR Models/53_Mainline_4dr_Sed.html
  8. Well, would be great if Revell brings something like this in 1/25 and kit form: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcJyjDIKvEY
  9. I did not even submit my card details. Since my last order was several years ago, I cannot imagine they still have the data stored. How would I know if my order was taken?
  10. Guys, I am aware of their loss, and I understand how tragic it is to loose a dear one suddenly. I just couldn't find any hint on the status of the order in their response.
  11. Gentlemen, did anyone place an order at the Modelhaus lately? I sent them an email inquiry/order last week and this is what I got: "We cannot adequately express our gratitude for the outpouring of support the modeling community has sent our way regarding the death of our son Steven. Your words of comfort, your prayers, and your patience have helped us to traverse this most difficult time. The depth of our grief still overcomes us at times. We are slowly trying to find what "normal" will be and get back to some routine. The website is open for orders. Your continued patience will be appreciated as we try to get orders filled. In God we trust, but do not always understand. The Modelhaus" Maybe my English is not good enough, but I really do not understand what the response means in plain English, My order was received? They are not taking orders in the time being? They are not taking any orders? I wrote them for explanation but received nothing. Your help is appreciated. Regards
  12. You will have some grey hairs at the beginning. Do not worry, that is normal. Once you pass the trial and error phase and develop your own feeling and skill, you will enjoy the fun. You made the right decision to go for a decent compressor directly. Air/Gas cans and lousy weak compressor would have caused you a great deal of frustration. Personally, I would have started with a cheap, external mix brush. They are simple to use, simple to maintain, and easy to understand why they work or not. The problem as you describe looks like thick paint, and probably clogged air brush. Try to dilute the paint gradually in SMALL steps. Once the paint is thin you can almost never get it thick again. After each step of thinning increase the pressure until it starts spraying. Continue the thinning/reducing pressure iterations until you get a satisfactory spray: not runny thin, not spitty, and not strong that blow everything away. Fine results should be obtained around 28-35 PSI (depending on the airbrush) and spraying distance 20/25 cm. The spray should "fall" on the surface. Circulation of the spray means you are either too close or using high pressure. Remember, it does not mean the paint is thin because it does not cover the primer. This can be corrected by additional layers. It is thin when it starts to run or looks like someone spitt it. Another thing to remember, airbrush does not mean a flawless glossy finish, rather, an even and homogeneous paint that will be glossy when polished, but to be polished, it must have a minimum depth (4-8 layers, depending on paint technique).
  13. Me..... for body painting where authentic colours and high quality finish are needed. Air brush and hobby colours for the rest.
  14. Judging several yutube demos, this product seems an outstanding metal finish. Did anyone try it? Any comments? http://ak-interactive.com/v2/?product_cat=xtreme-metal
  15. Guys, your comments are like an echo of what I had in mind..... The phantom comes first, Shadow second, and Batman third. Too bad there are (almost) no models of this car in 1/24
  16. 1/24? The scale disqualifies the kit for me. If it was a single kit of an isolated subject maybe, but to put 1/24 '56 Bel air next to 1/25 Nomad and Del Ray is out of the question for me. The older Bel Air are pain to build. I would go for an MCW resin conversion, or Hendrix for 2DR sedan. Finally, you mentioned Impalas and Bel Airs, not Del Rays
  17. 1938 Phantom Corsair http://silodrome.com/phantom-corsair/ Well, in my opinion, as the name implies. it fits to the Phantom. What do you think?
  18. Which Mercedes cars would you like to see kitted, by Revell or otherwise??? That is really a long, long list. But to put it short, anything between 1957 and 1977 is welcome. The Pagoda is on the top of the list, of course, followed by any of the C-111s. In any case no more 300SL please.... we have an excellent kit made by Tamiya. If it must be another 300, a new tooling of the Uhlenhaut 300 SLR.
  19. Guys when I say normal or regular price I mean around the average price of an American 1/25 kit. meaning 20-30 $US. AMT annuals do not fall under this category. I bought some 1960-1960 Lincoln Promo/Built annual kits in horrible conditions and paid well above 60 $US for them. True there are never kitted brands.... all those disappeared before the advent of the hobby were not kitted. Exotic and rare cars - the phantom Corsair for example - were never kitted either. I am talking here about regular kits of main stream mass produced cars that one can get at normal price.
  20. I do not want to be rude, but wouldn't it have been easier to start with Revell Bel Air or MPC flip nose?
  21. When I compare the Boomerang, Carabo and Marzal prototypes of the sixties and seventies to this it seems to me we are in 1955 not 2016.
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