khier

Straight out of the box. Painted with the airbrush using decanted paint from home improvement store. Much cheaper and better than hobby paints. The trailer is 3D print.of my own design. I hope you like it.

this kit was started a while ago. Unfortunately, the paint was ruined after applying the clear coat. I had to strip the paint yesterday and went back to stage 1. Once the paint is cured I will spray the clear again. Walid

Dear all, Is this paint clear? It doesn't seem to cover as model master colours usually do. I have applied two coats and the coverage is far from being uniform. I applied directly over yellow plastic because I wanted a bright background rather than the grayish shade of primers. What do you think? Should I go ahead with a third, possibly a fourth layer, or sink it in dot 3 bath? Regards Walid

It is always to see new kits coming. But isn't there enough 240Z and 240ZG? There is not a single 2+2 Z of any generation.

I primed this kit and put it off after dry test fit. The front wing is a pain to attach properly. I am thinking about scratch building or printing a replacement. Other than that the kit looks nice. Regards Walid

Beautiful. How did you treat the chrome parts? BMF?

I pre-ordered this kit in 2020. I received it early January and started immediately working on it. While a lot of improvements can be observed, like excellent instructions, correct shape and proportions and clever kit engineering in some parts, other aspects let me wonder if Revell is riding a time machine in the opposite direction. First, the shallow and fragile fixing points is as ever. The chrome parts, especially the bumpers are attached to the spruce in a very inconvenient way. The front bumper consists of three parts for no clear reason. The central part is so fragile that it will probably break when separated from the spruce (mine broke). I have the crude Monogram/Aurora kit. Even this ancient kit has a single piece bumper. Needless to say that here, too, attachment of the three parts together is a little adventure. I do not know if this my bad luck but the surface is wavy as if the mold was in use for the last thirty years. It took a ton of primer to repair. Hopefully the surface details will still be visible.

Your choice of subject is amazing. I love the big boats of the early seventies. Could you add some details about this model?

The only 4DR Sedan based on Revell Black Widow was made by the Modelhaus. This one is 150 Series. Good luck in finding one. All the 210 and 240 I am aware of are based on AMT kits.

Any full size wagon between 1949 and 1978 is welcome. Especially 1959 Dodge, 1958 Ford, Edsel, Mercury..... 1960 Ford.... 1965-1970 Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Buick, and Chevy of course.... and although not full size, mid-seventies Malibu, Cutlass, Century, and LeMans Safari.

The tele/phone dial

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Dear All, What is the best finish to replicate Porsche 928 wheels? I am converting Tamiya's Porsche 928S into a regular 928, which is not easy to find. Therefore I designed and printed the tele dial rims. I am thinking of using Alclad2. I have no idea how the finish will look like since this will be the first time for me to use it. I am torn between ALC-103 (Dark Aluminium) and ALC-102 ( DurAluminium). Any suggestions? Walid

Well, we have been living the age of ugliness for about 20 years now...... Ugly style..... Ugly music..... ugly furniture......ugly cars..... And now an ugly truck, so what???? Walid

I have been dreaming of such a kit for years. Who makes the resin body? Regards walid

Such a gem deserves Chrome Tec services.

Not only you.

Nitto/Entex: http://hankstoycars.com/porsche/nitto-the-porsche-collection-japan-porsche-928-unbuilt-electric-kit-1-24-nib-1/ Gunze Sangyo https://importnut.net/models/porsche-928-gunze-sangyo/ Italeri https://www.italeri.com/en/prodotto/2092 The first two are long out of production. The third is currently back in program. Regards Walid

"Someone offered me a Gunze Sangyo High-Tech" I wonder why didn't you use the Gunze Sangyo kit from the beginning. It could have saved you a lot of hassle modifying the body. Walid

I read they want to concentrate on new kits. If they are taking suggestion here is my contribution: 1956 Continental.

I presume it is lacquer since it is written it contains acetone.

After a long break I decided to build a kit to motivate my kids. To finish quickly, I decided to use a spray can for the exterior. I achieved the best results previously with automotive repair spray cans: dry quickly, unbeatable shine and easy to apply. This time I picked up a different brand. The paint itself is OK but it comes to quick and runs no matter how fast I go. I will have to stop without a clear coat since it is thick enough. But I want to avoid this in the next kit and revert to my air brush. What is the easiest way to decant a spray can? And which thinner should I use for thinning and cleaning? Acetone?? Regards, Walid

Your best choice is to convert on of These:

Maybe, but the young establishing date makes me suspect the entire action was planned in advance. Walid

Funny, this company was established 19.1.2018...... only 4 months old. Walid