southpier

i guess the bar has been raised!!!

http://www.migproductionsforums.com/phpBB3/index.php the military guys punish themselves with this stuff

and you wonder why i don't have a signature? very "junior varsity"

Jimmy Flintstone makes this one: http://www.jimmyflintstonestudios.com/onlinestore/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=284 i don't know how close it is to the one you're interested in building

it's similar to people who put everything they own in their signature

AMT Double Dragster AMT 1925 Model T - trophy series

any great way to improve exposed hinges ('32 Ford, '25 T, '29 A, style bodies) without cutting open the door & building a brass hinge? any photo etch or cast brass bits that would serve? seems as though after primer, sanding, and paint, the molded hinge detail ends up being obscured. thanks

i am grateful for every day i'm above the sod

that's the fun of a "hobby". it's there when we need it!

it is too bad you got stuck. rereading the original post you mentioned a couple of times about the difficulties in your business, and now it has crept into your hobby. there are several common denominators, but perhaps the only one you can control is You. McDonald's don't give you no cheeseburger 'til you pay for it!

for some reason i thought it would have rail flanges. great job

art supply store. if you're in a college town, the local bookstore (or even the one on campus) may have some. but for specific shapes and sizes in any "stock up" quantity, go right to the sources: http://www.plastruct.com/ or http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/ plastruct sells direct / evergreen has a dealer directory

it's always good to take a break for awhile when inspiration wanes. just check in from time to time so we know you're ok. okay?

very cool; thanks

ditto x 2

but once it's dropped, what holds it there? i liked the old SMP, AMT kits where there were 4 screws to wind in. then you knew that puppy was gonna hold!

how is a body mounted to a frame? seems like a detail which is taken for granted, so i never find a close up shot. for example: '29 roadster to its chassis. or '32 coupe. or '34 pick up. thanks

color pics here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=530810 see post #8

really nice and clean. captures the era of the original kit, and i think it's important to have a few of these on the shelf. Q: on the decal sheet, did you notice one of the AMT/TNT decals has the "N" backwards? photoshop mirror command gone awry!

he's successful and happy. people hate that don't you know?

http://www.na-motorsports.com/Racing/SprintCars.html http://winfield.50megs.com/sullivan.htm

like everything, there's "seller's value" and there's "buyer's value". seldom are they the same. plus, you've got to figure the "headache value" of selling anything. but if it's stuff you're not using and want to clear space, let it go with a clear conscience and move on. life's too short! good luck

i like Tamiya rattle cans. i use the military matte finishes exclusively because they suite my building style. in the rare event i use a "regular" spray bomb (love the term) i'll hit it with clear matte afterwards. brush paint detail work is either Tamiya jar (dig the smell!) or railroad colors x Floquil Polly S line. regular Floquil is just too nasty smelling and the tuoline thinner will drive me out of the room; worse than Goof Off. i've had an airbrush & compressor for years and have never gotten around to using it. some day.... Gamers seem big on Vallejo and i intend to try them when i get about 300$ to invest!

lots of stuff from around the house to augment the $$$ spent for tools lacking substitutes. wooden toothpicks and clip clothespins come to mind. if santa brings you a new shirt, keep the pins. fingernail clippers trim sprue and i prefer them on curved parts because of the radius cutting edges. cotton swabs for decaling. margarine tubs, ice cube trays, never discard a pill or spice bottle. or piece of cardboard. wax paper is good for squirting putty or mixing two part anything (i use JB Weld a lot). buy better quality tools less frequently than dumping a bunch of money on tools which look great in the catalog, but perform a task which you could do in steps with basic tools (it's not a race - just a race car!). single edge razor blades are handy, about 1/4 the price of hobby blades, and extend the life of those blades if you use them for general cutting chores. dulled hobby blades (most guys have at least 2 knives, "new" blade & slightly dull blade)can be used for spreading adhesives and putties rather than buy a dedicated tool. good to pick up a couple of saw blades of different tooth configurations and a handle. three needle files will get you started (flat, round, triangle) but a six piece set is usually less than 20$. it goes on, but let the need dictate the tool.

i didn't ever think of temperature affecting its potential. i stripped four kits' chrome trees last weekend. unopened but probably 6 month old "super clean purple" gallon. revell chrome gone in 15 minutes. dumped cleaner, put remaining trees back in. AMT double T kit chrome gone in about 2 hours - some pesky spots but i waited it out. AMT double dragster kit took a third clean batch of solvent and about 6 hours to disappear. all kits new issue.