southpier

it's my parents' wedding anniversary (13th) so i always thought the number in good light.

methinks you be right! just got the most recent R&M price list earlier this week. i could not find it in the body of the document, but in the 2015 price list it's item #P-151: 1/25 VINTAGE HEADLIGHTS w/Parking Light on top of H/L Bucket - Separate Lenses - For Fendered '32 & Others - 5 pcs. $6.95 thanks for the nudge & lead.

wow. surprised it didn't take longer to build. bet there's 40 years experience behind it.

Tamiya makes both good cement & putty, and is widely available.if you do decide to make the body shorter, put tape where you are going to cut and make the cuts inside the taped sections. that way, if the saw or knife slips, it will hit the tape instead of good plastic underneath. any tape is better than none, but a thick tape used in embossing label makers forms an edge to rest your cutting tool against (i've used Dymo-tape brand).

if one of the resin gurus could find their way to make some Guide headlights, they would look super on this ride.

i hope this doesn't delay the '29 ford hot-rod.

i've had some luck getting the undercoat on stripped chrome parts removed with a brass brush. but i agree unplated is best.

i apologize if that question came across harsh; sounds like you're doing good work.

i'm just pacing the floor waiting for this. those ribs (frames?) are incredibly simb, err, symmit, uh, looking like each other. epoxy to hold it all together?

this is worded oddly. are you a teacher? or the custodian in the school system? hot lunch guy? this isn't the place to be vague.

got the order today (along with an assortment of wheels) and they are nicer than photos show. love the little jewelry boxes, too! thanks

maybe someone would be interested in these: http://spencer1984.com/my_models/indiana-jones-last-crusade.php

how does that light combination work for you? i have a 100w incandescent & a 24w fluorescent. usually use just the 100w. when i use the fluorescent for any longer than a couple of minutes i feel like it's burning through to my cerebral cortex. it's the same distance (about 24" ) above my work surface, but maybe it's too bright for the area?

me, too. even if i didn't build models!

https://www.google.com/search?q=everybody+gets+a+ribbon&espv=2&biw=1600&bih=785&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=9lDaVLvyAoy-ggSh74GQDg&ved=0CCsQsAQ

ayup. K&S #8162 addendum: i try to use decimals and inches. decimals for real numbers, and inches for scale dimensions. decimals also force me to think scale conversion and do the arithmetic of converting in my head, although i do have a notebook at hand with commonly used numbers in the event i draw a blank. i find it very awkward to read a description with real world fractions in place of scale. the most common example to the effect: " i chopped the top 1/4"", which to me says .010". there would have most likely been more than this removed in evening out the cuts. now i understand common sense means a scale 6", but i awkward find nature of descriptions this like.

i think that's a by-product of the "everyone gets a ribbon" school of training.

good; you proved 'em wrong.

if superglue/ acc, there is debonder available. there's always the possibility of fine wetsanding and then plastic polishing back to slick (Novus #1, #2, & #3) if the adhesive didn't gnaw too deep.

K & S .0625" brass rod. it's a little loose; use epoxy and a bonus, any discrepancies which have crept into chassis leveling get sorted.

i think it looks great. of course - it's always easier to be a spectator!

link to another forum deleted

i've got it: a rewards point account!!! just like Hobbylinc & Dragon; the more clicks, the more points the poster would accumulate in their account. the points could be redeemed at a participating sponsor's webstore for model supplies. oh, wait; there already is a "reward points" program in place ....... nevermind..... s i g h ......

i agree. and a button for: orange peel molding lines fingerprints on glass inaccurate firing order gremmer & spiling mistooks

i never remember a Revell kit with a hole through the engine block (or oil pan) for the front axle, or having the chassis held to the body with 4 - #8 self tapping screws. maybe they were #6 - but the point .....