southpier

http://resinrealm.net/Star/HendrixGallery/index.html http://www.motorcityresincasters.com/mcrci.htm http://rmrresin.webs.com/nf125.htm

I've only seen the truck picture in B & W. somehow I assumed it was blue. this is going to be a great undertaking.

wouldn't something nonporous more closely duplicate the intended end result?

what happens if you just like the way it looks?

I think it affects the hue (tint?) of the final color. may want to sample paint something first.

healthy people set boundaries

go over it with #0000 steel wool lightly. or use the time tested dirty thinner wash. or alcohol with a few drops of india ink. although as you start to read up on weathering (the military guys do magic things with paint) most successful jobs are a combination of several steps & layers. inventiveness sometimes depends on your pain threshold and willingness to compromise. or just hold off until you can get some Dull-cote. certainly finish the rest of the model in the meantime. a can will last quite a while if you make sure the nozzle doesn't get clogged.

i remember a kid's dad who delivered mail with one of these. at 12 years old, i yearned for one as a surf buggy.

isn't this the same thing as the 'what do you have on your workbench', or something like that, thread of two weeks ago?

I tried one of the Revell kits (in a smaller scale - 1/32?) when I was about 8 years old. I think it was the '58 Buick Special. that pretty much cured me! great set of instructions and assembled kit you have done.

I keep a jar of #500 on the bench in the putty box. mix it with a round toothpick & apply with same. great for small scratches, seams, & ersatz scrapes. let dry, usually overnight, sand, and move on with life.

nice hobby

what this hobby needs is a new tool '29 roadster!

wow. are the trucks radio controlled?

are any of these (other than the Revell Rat Rod pickup) still in production? i pine for a good '29, but not in resin.

sometimes (as in the case of the distributor cap) you can put an assembly together dry and then apply adhesive from the underside where any excess might go undetected on the finished part. another thing that might be helpful to remember: if you put adhesive in the female part of the joint, any excess squeezes into the joint rather than out and around the opening.

so we can show off our new workbenches?

this build is exceptionally nice. it shows "rust" as a patina rather than an excuse to cover, as is sometimes the case, bad workmanship.

right behind the pop top & twist off as one of man's perfect inventions

these ones are pretty good - and come in about a bazillion sizes: http://www.ziploc.com/Products/Pages/ContainersSmartSnapSeal.aspx?SizeName=Extra Small Bowl kfc will kill you slowly . . . .

reminds us to enjoy the hobby while we are able

is the glass half empty, or half full? neither; it's too big

archer transfers http://www.archertransfers.com/ASSETS/SurfaceDetailsPg4.pdf http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=72253&hl=louvers#entry900343 micromark reportedly has something similar and more moderately priced, but i couldn't find it on their website. http://www.micromark.com/dry-transfer-letters-numbers-and-graphics.html http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=74106&hl=louvers

i had to remind someone yesterday: the Revolution will not be televised!

this is gonna be good!