southpier

stocking stuffers?

gotta switch out yer commer ......

i am still not sure if jeweler's nuts & bolts will do what you want. Machined Aluminum Specialties has some 000-120 but i never can get a good link to the site - http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=37075 RB Motion - http://www.rbmotion.com/ Dirt Modeler - http://www.mudfleas.com/Store/index.php?route=product/product&path=69_72&product_id=136 Micro Fasteners - http://www.microfasteners.com/ Morrisco - http://www.jimorrisco.com/miniature-screws-and-fasteners/miniature-self-tapping-screws.html Scale Hardware _ http://scalehardware.com/ pro tech has some lug nuts (i think machined) here: http://www.protechmodelparts.com/carpartspics/ptmc72.jpg the owner is a member here and has done some posts using these parts

" .... I never know what size I want until I get started on a project and visually see what looks good. ... "

i guess it's scale dependent. what size is a nascar lugnut in 'real life'? 1 1/4" across the flats? 1/25 scale would be .050" . how i got there was 1 divided by 25 = .040. so there's 1 scale inch in real measure. then divide 1 inch by quarters and have .010. add 1 inch and 1/4 inch and come up with .050. since Evergreen doesn't make hex rod, i went to the Plastruct website and looked at their sizes. http://www.plastruct.com/Pages/OnlineCatalogIndex.lasso wouldn't you know it; there's .040 & .060, so i'm left with either using artistice license and fudging the lug nut size, or getting real jewler's screws ....

i scoffed until the picture. brilliant

are you a dealer? or just don't want to run out on a sunday afternoon?

by the time this thread is over, he'll have his driver's license and discover girls

this

it's like anything, if you don't practice, you forget.

seen it a hundred times i tell ya. a hundred times

i didn't read this whole thread, but this is pretty interesting: i mean - "... torque reactive drive" somehow screams "rubber band" to me! thread here on HAMB http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=238665&page=4

nice. can i beg you to divulge the source of drills smaller than #80? thanks

good tip; thanks

you've got plenty of company here! but i believe it better to take some time and learn rather than throw something together and say "good enough"

in the past three days i read a thread that (i think!) had a blue '32 Ford sedan with the roof cut out pictured. the poster specifically mentioned his affinity for building body framework. having spent the better part of the evening doing just that same thing to an AMT '32 Victoria, i was wondering: where's the post in question - i couldn't find it 5 pages into the "view new content" search thingie and could someone share the secrets of this apparent black art? i struggled through it and came up with 2 good back inserts using cardstock & then styrene, but there must be a better way. thanks

i've read that brass can (or should?) be hardened after being worked. how?

oddly, Evergreen doesn't list hex rod (or i couldn't find it) but Plastruct has a few sizes: http://www.plastruct.com/Pages/OnlineProductDetail.lasso?-op='eq'&CCode=MRX-30 just for reference: http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/ maybe Slater's has shapes, but lack of access has kept me from ever using their products. YMMV

there might be some hints here that will help you: http://www.scalemotorcars.com/content.php?r=305-Scratch-Built-Stock-Ford-Model-T-in-1-8-th-Scale and it's a fascinating build to boot!

no kiddin' Randy brings the tin!

" .... cutting them so they tend to curl.... scribing the metal and flexing it ...... " depending on the shape, maybe you could try (shears or scissor) cutting away the waste in bit size pieces rather than cutting out the shape with a continuous cut? a diamond pointed scribe can cut pretty much through a sheet of brass much as the back of a hobby blade does in styrene. no end to the "ghetto - brakes" you could put together with either metal or tropical hardwoods. thinking about the rack at the big box store, there's angles, rods, and keystock. add some C clamps. i know jig & fixture making takes away from building time, especially for a one-off part. i have a box of things in the wood shop ready for the "next" time!

Nick not

i guess reading a dictionary is out?

ha ha - you had me scratching my head over that one! thanks for the link

i'll bite: "Rootliebed the bonnet" que?