oldcarfan

Wrong category

Don't know if anyone wants to see this,but here is a photo tour of a 1:1 car that Ed Bolian bought to fix up into a 2904 winner. The 2904 is one o the spiritual descendants of the Cannonball. The car seems pretty generic but there are some good shots of the fuel cell and some of the electronic surveillance devices used. https://edbolian.com/a-photo-tour-of-the-2904-winning-mercedes-s55-amg/

I bought two of the Aoshima food trucks from Lionheart Hobby and decided to do something different with them. This is the first completed one. I decided to turn it into a pint-sized overland truck and this is the result. Walmart has some interesting toys that proved to be a good source for parts. The Maisto mini trucks are 1/43rd-ish scale and are a good source for small vehicle parts. I bought a couple of them for $3.79 each and broke them down for parts. As for the actual Kei truck, it has steerable front wheels and I reversed the steering knuckles to raise the front and put a beam axle on the rear to raise it. The wheels are from the little Maisto trucks and scale out to about 12-13 inches in 1/24th scale. In my head, I figure you could use UTV wheels and tires to make it work. The roof light bar and the spare tire are from another Maisto mini truck and the winch, headlights, and taillights are from a Jada Toys 1/34th scale Jeep, another good source for smaller sized parts and tires. The Kei trucks are really tiny in real life, a lot of ranchers in my area are using them for utility vehicles. My pictures aren't great, but I used a 1/24th Welly Porsche Cayenne as a size reference.

I unpacked another moving box and found these two trucks. I built them probably 20 years ago and they've been in display boxes since then. The paint jobs were better than anything I've done since. The first is an unpainted eBay glue bomb that I repaired and painted. The chrome was bad so I soaked it in bleach and then painted it with Krylon Dull Aluminum and some clear gloss. The black truck was a ModelHaus resin kit that I cut off the bed on and then used parts from an AMT 53 Ford truck for the frame and bed. For the bed mounted spare I carved a hole into the left rear fender and used aluminum foil to fill the hole. It was painted with Duplicolor primer and Krylon gloss black. The new issue trucks with the separate bed should make a stepside conversion easier and the width and length on the 53 truck bed and frame is perfect for short bed 1960 truck.

I need to remember what you said. I also have occasional leg pain when walking through hobby stores! I've never seen this kit. Looks like fun.

I've heard of using grease splatter screens as a source for fine mesh, but no one in my area stocks them. Even Walmart has been out of them for a while. I was at Hobby Lobby today getting some cloth for my wife and I noticed they are starting to put out stuff for a small housewares section. Sure enough they had just put up some splatter screens. I got one approximately 12 inches across for $3.79. It's smaller than half the size of window screen and I can see a lot of uses for it. 1/24th tire for reference.

Really great job! I love restoring these old diecasts and you've really made this one look good.

Just an update. I'm calling this one done! I found some decals off eBay and got them on. I put the roof rack on and got the snorkel air intake in place and it's ready to go offroading.

I'd love to have this kit, the boat looks cool and I'd forgotten about those cars. I wonder how many of the 1:1 Arrows still exist in the world?

The Le Moo 2 as it was called was a truck that was on my If I win the lottery list!

Nice! You did a great job. I may have to add one of these to my wish list.

Looking good. I have this kit too and am looking for ideas.Thanks!

I'm glad Chrysler has the sense to offer a hybrid version. I'm in the market for something new and a couple of vehicles sort of look fun such as the new VW van, but a pure electric vehicle will not be in the running. Like a lot of America, I live in a rural area and I don't want to have to worry about charging time or availability.

I'm glad to hear this stuff is good. The Hobby Lobby and the Hobby Town I went to were all out of Tamiya stuff and I'm running low. The Hobby Lobby nearest me just started carrying the Mr. Surfacer and I'll give it a try.

I've been thinking of getting a food dehydrator to cure paint more quickly. None of the thrift shops around me have had one, but they have tons of knock-off Yeti cups. Anyway, I remembered my father in law has one that he doesn't use and was going to ask about it last weekend. The whole family was visiting the in laws. As if on cue, my millennial niece came by and the first thing she said was that she is going to be a herbologist and wanted to borrow the food dehydrator. She grabbed it and then set about checking their yard for harvestable weeds. Oh well, you snooze, you lose. I may break down and just order one off Amazon.

That's a good start! Have fun with it, those Tamiya Porsches are nice kits.

Testor's may not be aware of this, but their parent company probably does. I recently uncovered a box of paints that I had put away many years ago. They were mostly Testor's brand and many were doing just as you describe. I started looking at them and the one common denominator was that the leaking cans all had Rustoleum's name somewhere on the can. The older ones had only Testor's name on them and there were no leaking cans among that group. Personal opinion, and I've tried many ways to make it work, but Rustoleum is not a particularly good product and that seems to have filtered down to Testor's as well. For spray paint I try to use only Tamiya, Duplicolor, or Krylon, depending on the use.

Understandable. Even among the major kit makers, scale was a subjective thing. I talked to someone a few years back that designed kits for Monogram back in the day. He said that tires and engines were always a bit bigger than scale because it looked better to the eye for most modelers.

No worries, I didn't make it clear. The problem is more with my scratchbuilding than anything else. The engine is fine and I built the engine bay before ordering the twin turbo engine using the non turbo engine from a Monogram Mustang to judge the room needed. While I'm on the subject, I do want to compliment your engine. I was expecting it to be a lot more prep work. The parts were clean and went together quickly.

In an effort to improve my photo taking, I started a backdrop style diorama. It's a generic shop/factory floor but inspired by Magnus Walker's garage in Los Angeles. I used some printed brick bought off eBay along with a couple sheets of black foam board and some balsa left over from an old project. So far I'm only in to the project for the price of the brick sheets and the foam board. The gray strips are just painted balsa to represent concrete. I found some old photos online of a shop built like that. The base is 12 x 21 and I've backed the foam with more balsa strips on the underside. I'm hoping that will curb the foam board's tendency to warp. In scale, the brick walls would be around 16 feet if I measured right. The upper part is just plain black. I need to add some doors and windows and a decent floor, but it's a start. If anyone has tips, let me know.

A long time ago a friend in the Navy bought an old Chevette and stuck a built 454 in it. The first time he hit the gas it just spun the tires. He hacked the rear wheel wells and put some big slicks on the back. He hit the gas this time and it hooked up too well. The chassis was warped bad enough one of the front tires wouldn't quite touch the ground. Probably should have beefed it up and maybe fixed some of the rust first.

I like the idea of using fine fiberglass cloth to support things. I have a roll of that somewhere. Obviously I don't have access to the adhesive you do, but I used the cloth one time with resin to make a belly tank. The cloth has just enough flex to go down smoothly over the plug I carved. We are straying from the subject as some have said. I remember as a kid having a toy car that advertised it was made out of Hi-Impact plastic and it looks like this is the same sort of thing. The only thing that seems to work is heat welding with a soldering iron. I originally wrote the question hoping to find some glue I missed. No adhesives I've tried work and that is that as far as I can tell. I'll try making resin copies of pieces I want to use. Appreciate the ideas!

No real progress today, but I did make a few positive steps. I ordered a different engine to try. I'm having trouble getting the Coyote twin turbo setup to fit in the Expedition engine bay. I found a 5.2 liter Voodoo and will see if it fits better. I was hit with some inspiration for the front bumper this afternoon and also managed to get the hood to fit a bit better.

I'm now thinking this is the way for some pieces. I have an Alumilite kit I bought from HL last year and packed away. If it's still good, I may try making copies.

Reading the replies made me think and I went out and checked. The plastic does indeed have a sort of waxy feel to it not unlike Teflon in some ways. I have a couple of Bondo spreaders and they feel and flex like plastic I'm talking about. The plastic doesn't take cutting or sanding well at all. Out of curiosity, I tried an experiment. I scuffed up the leftover chassis of a parts kit and tried various things on it. I tried super glue, Bondo spot putty, two part epoxy, ketone, and some other solvent based cleaners. They had no effect on the plastic. It didn't bond the plastic and it didn't even distort it.