Brutalform

Another car that was just sitting in the box waiting to be assembled. I always wanted to build one of these with the small, Fairlane hub caps. This has the 60 Starliner chassis, and the body was from the old working taillights kit. Interior is from the curbside kit.

I figured so. You know your Mopars pretty well. When I did mine, I tried my hand at removing the interior arm rests, and adding seat belts to operate the windows.

Also, are you planning on removing the side marker lights on the front fenders?

I need to get another one of these kits too. I built a red Hemi Dart with black interior, a while back, and was meaning to get another. I’d like to build one as it came from the factory, in primer with the black front end.

I was going through some started kits, and I found a few that are close to completion. Mostly foiling, and final assembly. Just finished this one up today. I had built this kit before, but man did this one give me some problems. All when I installed the body on the completed frame. I had the radiator support constantly falling off. Had to add a smaller tach, as the one I had wouldn’t clear the windshield. I added some Pro Tech fittings for lug nuts. They didn’t turn out that great, maybe the next time they’ll look better. I think that was the reason I put it on the shelf, now that I think about it.

Does he have a website? I’d definitely like to get some of those headers. They look fantastic.

Shirley Shahan? Looks pretty darn good. Is this the car you were after on eBay? The rear wheel wells look great. I think Revell had the guide lines a bit off on the inner fenders.

I saw your Badman 55. Amazing build you have there, with lots of detail. You put a lot of work into it, and it shows. I was noticing the grill doesn’t fit into the opening on this AMT kit. Plus, the hood has too large of a gap all the way around. But after I glue the radiator support in, it seems that it pulls the fenders together the mm or so it needs to align right. I do have a sealed Revell kit, but I have two of these open AMT kits, so I’ll just make it all work. Not really diving into this one yet, as I have a few cars almost ready for final assembly.

That color looks like it has a pearl to it. I remember years ago seeing a Stang or two with that color of paint. Looking good so far.

Sure does make sense. Looking at the tire, to me, just don’t look right the way it sits. I’m envisioning what you described and revealing more tire, but not the top part, would look right.

Also, I now see the 210 has the rear side trim, which I wanted to keep, so I can do the two tone paint job.

This is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thanks Greg. I think I saw this somewhere else on the forum??? Possibly you posted it before?

I think keeping the body lines would be right thing to do. Thanks.

Been playing around with a pro street AMT 55 Chevy, and I noticed that on the real 1:1 cars, the front fender trim extends along the door, almost halfway. Then on others, it stops and comes to a point before the door panel line. Can anyone shed some light on this? I searched on the internet, and really didn’t find anything but I figured someone on here could quickly explain the difference? I removed the chrome on my door, because it looks better. Now do I have to remove the rest of the trim? Also I need opinions on whether to leave the rear fender wells as is, or widen and open them up a bit?

I use alligator clips, fastened to bamboo skewers, to using two sided tape on wooden coffee stirrers. Sometimes a hot pin tip can poke into a tiny part in an inconspicuous area.

I think it’s time to take a little break from it now. I didn’t even work the decal hard and it tore. But obviously hard enough.

I watched a video, then went back downstairs to give another try, and ruined the door side decal. Trying to get a wrinkled bubble smoothed out on top of the wheel well and it tore.

The rear part of the car, and the glass have the decals applied. The glass looks “ok” I suppose. This is all that I have accomplished in the last two days. Maybe I should cut the decal to go around the vents in the hood? Getting a little frustrated so I’m taking a break.

Building the car was a breeze compared to applying the decals. The decal sheet had a crease below the #5, and Salvinos is sending me a new sheet. I totally ruined the hood decal, so I’m glad I have another set coming. I just hope I don’t ruin another. I’m using Tamiya Mark Fit Strong, but it seems these just don’t want to lay down.

My first truck ever was the AMT Mack R685ST. The one that’s green on the box. I got it for Christmas when I was 10 years old in 1976. I also got the AMT Gulf, and Union 76 tanker with it. I thought that tanker box pic was so cool with the big rigs sitting there in the night. My friend from across the street got the Movin On truck, and we built them together. Everything was crooked, and used too much glue, but there it sat in the white styrene and chrome when it was finished. I didn’t really paint everything back then. I remember on the tanker, I didn’t even put the fuel valves on the bottom. I figured I would just skip this step. And I have the re release of the Mack in my stash today, because of those memories.

Thanks! I just subscribed to their YouTube channel. When I have some time, I’ll go through it, and check out the videos.

That’s a cool idea. I had an old friend that built a 65 Ford Mustang like that. Maybe I could buy a few detail parts that I don’t already have, and display the car without two wheels, and the hood open, without the air ducting. Most of the really nice detail is in the suspension, and engine. I bought Larsons 2023 car on eBay because it was $30 shipped. Are the older Salvinos cars from the 60s and 70s highly detailed? Like one of Petty’s cars?

Thank you. As always, I appreciate people’s input on builds. I got the body in primer, and the under shell painted semi gloss black. I will probably lay some color on it tomorrow. One thing I was thinking on these kits, they are very detailed. Some of the best details I’ve seen. It’s too bad, that after all the air ducting and radiator, ducting, fender wells, and the bottom chassis plate, really hides a lot of the details. I might try my hand on the next build, to try and display some of the details more.

Basically what Dave said. My bad.

The first GFCI wired correctly will protect other outlets in the circuit after it. The “line” side of the GFCI, should be wired to the incoming power. The “load” side of the GFCI, which will come with a sticker over the terminals, that must be removed, is where the wires will connect to, that will power the other outlets after it. It’s a good idea to label the regular outlets that are protected “GFCI PROTECTED “ with a label on the switch plate.