62rebel

for me, whether the glass was full or not is moot; i knocked it over.

Dominick has proven that the venerable Revell tri-five Chevy kits can actually be built to portray a convincing display. bravo, sir... many of those kits ended up being junked back in the day. nice touch using the Chrysler engine....

i shop the Hobbytown, there's two of them. i've heard that Tuesday Morning sometimes has kits. Randy's closed up years ago and Racing Fools closed up as well. Micheals and AC Moore is about the only other game going. there's a Hobby Lobby in Columbia but it has two strikes going against it... that's a hundred and some odd miles and they're closed Sundays. i went to the show today and was very impressed with the contestant displays; some really very nice builds and a fair amount of good vendors. and i did take a couple of boxes of stuff to donate to the club....... maybe i'll see some of it on the tables next show!

i gave a buttload of kits and parts to the club that runs that show a couple of years back, i've lived less than two miles from that church for the last fifteen years and never made it to a show yet..... and it looks like i might have to work Saturday as well, and miss it yet again. i might rustle up some more of my less satisfactory builds and donate them to the club if i can make it there Saturday.

yes, yes, and yes. all of them. heck, even a shallow interior like that of a friction car would do if nothing else.

so what if it's the same version as the last reissue? not all of us have stashed unbuilts from the era, and regardless of the mixed styles and simplistic details, it builds up nice and straight and won't present an unsurmountable challenge for novice builders to produce a decent shelf sitter. if we make young builders shy away from this kit, Revell might be inclined to second-think more reissues later.....

no worry, nick; if i did get that email i'd have known it wasn't you.

six years on two sub tenders, myself... we had a huge model on the messdecks of our ship as it was delivered from the shipyard in '63, and it was solid hulled on one side and open on the other.... detailed from the masts to the bilge and built from scratch.... i used to stand and look at that thing in wonder. it was probably four or five feet long at least, and our ship was 600 feet long......38 feet abeam and if i can remember correctly, sixty feet from o-2 level to the keel.... roundbottomed old girl wallowed in heavy seas like a drunk prom queen.

Levi's denim upholstery.... KC and the Sunshine Band.... The Captain and Tenille..... Dy-No-MITE..... 79 cents a gallon for gas..... yup; i'll need at least two of these to go with my Matadors and my Mustang II Rallye T-Top car. John, while you're searching through those vaults, dig up an Econoline mold, why dontcha.... well; NOT the Matilda version.

when i built my replica t-top mustang II i added prebent sections of paper clip wire (straightened and cut to length) where i thought extra strength would be needed to support the extra weight and offset the loss of rigidity from cutting out the t-tops. i'd put a piece of wire on the backside of each "A" pillar on that model; super glue works best BUT beware of that stuff fogging chrome and clear parts. epoxy would be stronger but it can be fussy and take a long time to set up. i'm a charter member of the ten-thumbs club also.

good! now i can set about slicing and dicing a fifty year old promo..... well; first order of the day is removal of some trim that doesn't exist on my 1:1 Falcon..... working out whether i can scratch a substitute interior tub so i can get some better detail in there, and contemplating modifying a spare ranchero chassis heavily to get some decent chassis detail AND then possibly scratching up an engine bay and slicing open the hood.... i got the best reference source available, the real deal out the back door.

i'm familiar with the acetate plastic used in the early days, and have a couple of kits and a couple of promos from the early '60's... i use rubbing alcohol to clean with and found that it actually acted as a solvent on my '62 Falcon promo... not horrible destructive action but definitely solvent... am i going to be okay priming and painting this plastic or will i run the chance of crazing the plastic? i generally use testors lacquers and enamel and tamiya spray, if that makes a difference. another aspect is attaching modern plastic to the '62 plastic... i wonder if the standard MEK solvent i use will act equally on both surfaces? i.e., one side gets good melt on the contact edge and the other barely reacts at all? i have a vision for my ancient promo but i don't want to destroy it trying to see it through.

i'll defer to Robby the Robot. he called Moebius "Moe-be-us" and was not corrected. would 300 gallons be enough, sir?

pare off most of that chrome baggage and that car starts to look pretty again. then again, i'm of the k-i-s-s school of style. not to say i don't like the car as is, i do, actually.

i saw one Boonie Boss on the interwebs for sale at around 125 bucks.... i bought a running '74 f100 for 150 bucks once. i think i'll PASS on the BB kit!

most of the people i knew who were in tents were soldiers..... or campers. maybe Native Americans from the Plains. or.... nomadic tribesmen. hee hee hee.

the last issue was heavily retooled to represent a newer truck and to slim down the extra parts, it's darn near unusable for even starting to reverse engineer it into a stock truck. hence, it's available almost everywhere! i found a Boonie Boss online for $124.99..... hey, the last F100 i bought was only $150.00 and it was driveable.... somebody must be holding some Moel King F350 repops....

it's been a lot 'o years since i seen one, so it may well have been a 350.... i wonder if the Boonie Boss version was 4x4? i just can't recall much about that one, just that it was a stock Ford pickup. they came with what appeared to be 460/C6 powerplants and had pretty detailed chassis. the bed was always a challenge to get glued together square, as it came in eight main pieces plus floor braces! those Econolines had great chassis detail as well, just no interior to speak of. we'd burn AMT to the ground for that today! just kidding, of course; i'd buy a dozen Econolines and F-100/350's!

and here is another guy named Curt chiming in that i like this build very, very much. i've built tribute models for as many family cars as i can manage, some never to fulfillment and some given away. very nice build, again.

IIRC, "back in the day" AMT jumped onto the monster truck bandwagon sort of sideways, releasing a "bigfoot" clone based on the venerable '70's F100 longbed, adding a slew of monster truck chassis parts and giant wheels and tires and big truck axles.... leaving about 90% of the stock F100 parts in the kit as well. i can't tell exactly what year the F100 was, but it was clearly a high level of trim possibly the Explorer version, and because it had the bedside tool box, it should have been a Camper Special IIRC also.... so, what was the kit number for this in-betweener kit, as i am searching for one to build a STOCK F100 from, no interest at all in the monster truck parts. i think the LAST stock version of this kit was called the Boonie Boss... any kit number for that as well? hmmmm.... i wonder if Round2 has the molds for this kit or the Econolines?

i think sectioning this body will be easier than the revell 40 by a long shot. the trouble is, it would be SOOO easy to take out more than just enough to do it right..... three scale inches would be the limit IMHO..... shoot. i don't even HAVE one yet....

i'll be hunting this kit down as well; even though my own Falcon is a '62 tudor sedan.... i have had Falcons out of every year except 67 and 68... and i've spent enough time underneath them to account for what deficiencies you're seeing. the rear frame rails, from the front spring pocket back to the bumper, are too narrow and too close together, placing the rear springs too close together and "crowding" the fuel tank, which seems like it should be farther forward and further from the edge of the trunk floor. it's my suspicion that Trumpeter is aware of the rear axle placement and left the discrepancy there to allow modelers to install larger wheels and tires without chopping holes in the chassis. i can't explain the exhaust; it follows no factory schematic i've seen, even Mustangs. the body and interior looks great, even with the faults we've discussed before. you've done a fantastic job and thanks for not hiding any of the faults Trumpeter left.

i often wondered why the Recharged Polara headers wouldn't fit properly.... now i'm wondering why they included a hemi in a kit representing a car that ran a wedge..... that's why i have two sets of them; they wouldn't fit the engine..... the AMT '37 Chevy also has some that are almost fenderwell style, also for BBC. the Malco gasser Vette set is nice. i'm of the mind, though, that bending up some solder is the easiest way to get a set that will fit your application without modification..... i haven't tried that, though, i don't build in that style often.

lots of work or not, they are a feature on a bunch of era customs, and deserve the attention. Thanks, Tim, for the extra pics. looks like i need about four.... no, eight.... no....

AMT's repop MPC '53 ford flipnose has a set, i believe, but they're for BBC..... maybe i'm wrong, though. i have two sets of Johan Mopar headers, but they're for B/RB engines, of course.