Chris in Berwyn

Given the effort you have already made to replicate the Dart I think you should do a dart again,unless as the decals, stripes, etc are just too hard to get as right as you want them. I also think that some builds just don't go 100 pct right, and you can either live with the flaws and move on, or take whatever time it needs to get it right. I have two cases in point. My Mickey Thompson Revellaser had great paint but the decals have cracking issues. I finally said it isn't what I envisioned,but it just isn't worth the pain to perfect. On the other hand, I am building Phil Castronovos 71 Mini Charger. It's a labor of love and I will take all the time it takes to get it right.

Mortgages can fall thru before closing, so cash is always preferrred.

Soooo I have been told that the right time to wait to remove tape is the amount of time it takes to clean your airbrush! So I tried it, to pretty good effect. I was using Testor's enamel, but I think you could be waiting too long. Hopefully some experts will weigh in. Probably worth checking some back issues of your favorite model car magazine to see if any painting articles provide guidance on this.

What sort of tape are you using? There is no need to tape the big areas. You can use paper over them, then just use tamiya or frog tape to seal the edges.

I completely agree with you. Would love to have the updated Mopars, and those Caddys are hot cars! Would be fun to have them. Just a few years back we had Revell's Uptowns, the Magnum, Challenger,the Testor's Charger, etc. Now, nuthin!! Chris

Nice! Any trouble with the flame and pure orange decals cracking? Those decals caused me some trouble. Yours looks great!

Hi, last year I was building a Shirley Muldowney Mustang, using the Slixx Frederick's of Hollywood Shirley decals. Most went on OK, but the gold flames and orange roof trim stripes cracked. After the ones for one side cracked, I coated the other side's decals with Microscale's brush on decal film made for this purpose. Then those cracked even worse. I am in the midst of decaling the LA Hooker '71 or '72 Mustang. The Slixx decals came with duplicates of the red striping marked "fix" on the sheet. They went on fine, but I screwed one up and decided to use the same stripe from the main sheet. It cracked like crazy. Tonight I am trying to decal the Mickey Thompson Revellaser. I had read these Slixx decals tended to crack, so I was careful and one side cracked anyway. I again went the Microscale route and again, they cracked worse than the untreated side. I have a big inventory of Slixx decals. Is all this cracking the norm? If so, I am going to give up with them unless there is a way to fix them. I have considered spraying them with Krylon, but am then worried that Microl Sol and Micro Set won't work on the Krylon coating, meaning I won't be able to get them to bend or fit into crevices as needed. Thoughts and advice are welcomed!! Chris

The Model King Challenger FC and I believe the AMT boxed (but originally MPC produced) Blue Max FC from 2006 both have seated driver figures.

The HUG and this are the same. I noticed that the valve covers are glued on upside down, so you will have to fix that. As an aside, the Chezoom Corvair FC that just came out has the same chassis (don't know if the Chezoom has the hemi or if they might have put a chevy in there. I think the Chezoom decals say "427" which would imply a Chevy.

Wow! What a collection! BTW based on other pics here, it looks like the Nova and Falcon got their windshield wipers back during the Street Freaks era of these kits. Too bad - I have all the ones that Model King re-released, and I want to build several, but I am not in the mood to remove the wipers - a lot of work and a good chance of messing things up. Chris

It does not have a blower hat does it? Those four tube injectors are fairly common in kits I think. I think but am not sure that either the Revell or AMT parts pack Pontiac have it, as does the recent Revell chi town fc.

The AMT Funny Hugger II Camaro fc released by Model King a few years back has a blown rat, but I can't speak to the accuracy of that engine. All I can say is the injector scoop is too big.

scalefinishes.com has a set of 2 oz light blue and 1 oz dark blue for airbrushing. Go to their site, click on Racing Color 2 oz gloss enamel, and in the dropdown box is the set of paints.

.

That is nice. Did you bend the fenders to get the hood and body to align? Wish I had done that before painting mine. Beautiful work!

Thanks! Yes, the inside is brush painted with flat gray. I'd like to learn to spray the inside, but it seems like tons of masking would be required.

BTW, if these are quick builds, what does one of your slow or normal speed builds look like?

Sweet! Great paint and engine detail!

Hi, I finished this recently. It is box stock except for a wired distributor. It is painted HOK Wild Cherry with Testors One Coat Clear. I will probably add some more sponsor decals. I also have to paint the tarp that covers the pickup bed. I just moved and have not yet unburied the kit box so I can find and paint that part! I had wanted to build this kit for a long time - when Round 2 re-released it I decided it was time!

Very nice! Great paint! Just curious why you used a Comp Resins body?

BTW, will the Moon Beast be at NNL West in Santa Clara? This will be my first NNL West and it would be great to see this in person! Chris

What about widening the body to enclose the tires? :-)

Any Revell fc of any vintage?

Nice!! Where did you get the crimper tubes for fittings, and how did you letter the slicks? This looks great!

Where do I buy a 1/24 version? It looks really nice!