Smart-Resins

I can clearly see that I will want to get one of these. With the options it has, it will make a real nice high boy, or low boy I should say! Just need to find a better mill for a shoe in!! Jody

Well, I can not say too much! I mean where are the rest of the pictures? LOL. No actually, not my thing to build, but I certainly do admire it! Very well done and over the top! Jody

Well, I have seen simular things around here to some degree. I do not know why he could no longer afford the mortgage, so that case may be sad, dont know? Some people just decide to stop paying for no good reason. I can say, it was his choice apparently. Yes, I hate to say this, but with all of those models, he could have found a way to sell off his collection to help buy time for the mortgage protection. Now on the other hand, the house appears to be in structural disaray! he could have kept things up for some time!! But he did not, so therefore the house was deemed unsafe! He had ample time apparently to resolve the situation, but did not. My father is a code enforcement officer. So I know they give a warning. If not fixed, they come with a officer and evict you! He apparently had more time then just the warning. So he should have at least since he felt as though there were no other ways, gotten everything packed up! So even though I do feel some sympathy for him, it is little. I dont want to sound harsh, but as adults, we have certain responsabilities we need to take care of wether we like it or not! I completly love models, but I only have a few. Certainly no collection. That is because I cant afford much and I make my bills my priority. Thanks. jody

Very cool indeed! I hope someone does not try to kill the car cause then she may try to kill them! LOL. Gotta admire a women like that!! Jody

You could cast a nice 1923 c cab, the fiberglass version!! LOL. I have never seen one, and would love to see someone do it. That is unfortunately beyond my scratch building capabilities at the monet! Jody

Its always nice to see someone adding more to the realm of resin! Jody

I was expecting a high boy or something! LOL. Very nice surprise though! LOL. Nice stance and the chassis looks good! Jody

I have seen two still in mint condition and running! I almost bought one last year for $3500 and it still had the factory plastic on the seats! Also my grandfather has one that he has driven for years. Still drives it ocasionally! By the way, I am currently working on a Baldwin Motion "Super Vega" hood. Thanks. Jody

I like the last set of wheels for sure! Personally I like a blower idea, but that engine would make it a sleeper! Jody

Now when I was in the service, it was my understanding that the AM General was connected to GM, and thus why GM sells the humvee wich is a glrified luxury hummer. But I am no one to argue. Now onto the other thing, selling hum v to stay out of bankrupcy, I would argue, according to yahoo news, general motors filed bankrupcy this morning, then this afternoon they announce the selling of the humv so they couls settle some of thier debt problems so they could work through bankrupcy quicker and restructured and out of bankrupcy! That is what I read anyways and how I took it! All I care about is that they keep selling chevy's! Of course, it did upset me when they stopped making oldsmobiles!! Jody

Here is a link to my forum for that tutorial I was telling you about by Chris Buck. Thanks. Jody http://kustomcarz.proboards.com/index.cgi?...&thread=124

hello. For the rims, depending on the style, most you can create one pafrt molds for. I take a master, and glue it to some plastic stock, then build usually card board sides for it. The engine I do the same way, I glue each half down to make a one part mold for both halves. Some rims, you can not do in one part molds. These are where I always have fun. LOL. JK. You will want to get some clay from your local hobby store. Nothing fancy as the fancy stuff will have chemicals in them that will harm your rubber molds. Always do the clay on the less detailed half of your part. Make that the bottom initially. I do it a little different then most as I have found it easiest for me. I make the outer mold only as big as I need to. Then I remove my card board sides when the first half is cured. I them make a larger box and flip thew item over after cleaning off all of the clay! This way, both halves will fit together and will always align. The alignment is where I always had my worst night mares! The tires you would do in the same style. I usually take clay and fill in the hollow tires. When I go to clean up the clay from the first half, I will leave that clay inside the tire, creating a mold for solid rubber tires. This way there are no troublesome under cuts! Also your tires wont sag after time! I hope this helps! if you need a tad more, I can send you a nice tutorial that Chris Buck shared with me! it is of doing a model body. Same techniques to a body as many other parts! Several helped me get to where I am now! But Chris was the most help! Jody

Looking great!! Keep it up. Jody

Thanks guys. I know in the old shop I used to work at, he had a big machine to draw the water out of the lines from his big air tank before it got to any ogf the tools. Otherwise, we never had to worry about anything when spraying through the big guns from the pressure pots. I know it should be simular physics with these little guns, but in some aspects, because it is something new, it does intimidate me and I am uncertain, or maybe better phrased, not confident yet until I get used to it. So thank you guys! Jody

Wire and plumb a chevy 454 Rat motor with lenco tranny? Need to know where to put Electronic ignition, duel fuel pump(pro/stock style) and what is the firing order for these? I have change direction on a model and will now be needing this information to finish it in time for a show in early July. Thanks. Jody

Thanks for the replies. I have heard of doing water colors made with food coloring. I just may do this as I could paint some cars and stuff for fun and practice and learn as I do. My question however on this is will the water harm the airbrush. I know this may be a silly question, but everyone recomends a inline water trap/evaporator as to not allow water into the air brush. I would assume however this would be water into the trigger area from the air flow and the water to spray with only enters the front of the gun? Thanks. Jody

Looks like a nice start to a great project! Jody

Looks like a cool project! Jody

Now that I got my airbrush, the only thing I am waiting on getting in the mail this year is the photo etch system. Then I can start adding details to my models and maybe sell some along the way. Does anyone have one of these systems from micro mark? I would enjoy talking shop with anyone who does. Thanks. Jody

I received in the mail today my Pasche VLS dual action internal mix airbrush kit with the whole enchalada in it. #1, #3 and #5 needles and tips, 2 jars, wrench, hanger, cup and hose. Now to get a inline evaporater and to make the new paint booth to replace the card board box once I am allowed to finish my basement after physical therapy. I cant wait to try it out!! Much to learn now! If anyone has one of these and would like to talk shop, I would love to hear some of the ins and outs to it and how to learn how to try to use it properly. Thanks. Jody

Very very nice!! I like it a ton. Jody

I voted for the Hemi over the chevy mill. However, a nice blown 427 would be best in my opinion! Jody

The tests to see if it does actually dry completely if it is the same stuff as regular stain, would be first, the thumb nail test. Rub your thumbnail on it. If you leave a mark, it is only dry one the surface. The second is a test of multiple things. It could mean not dry, notadhering or penetrating the item, or the wrong formula on top of another. Take a knife to it. if it will peel off, then its not coated well. If it is dried completly, then it certainly is not oil based stain! Thats for sure. I will have to google these for sure so I know what they are. Again, even if it is, as long as it is cured enough to be sturdy to the touch, it would certainly be good enough for a shelf model at any rate, wich is all I seem to do, well when I do finish one that is!LOL. I do appreciate the tip and will have to investigate it and do some tests of my own! I wonder why we did not have these in the cainet shop. We had those wax crayons instead for fixing up chipped finishes. Primarily special finishes with glazing ect. on them. Thanks. jody

if it is indeed oil based, then it really does not completely dries! Just to the touch as it vaporizes on the surface, sealing off the lower levels where they can not vaporize, thats why it takes a couple of days. You more then likely noted a difference between primered plastic and not primered plastic as it would have a better bite on the primer as it is textured and allows some penetration. Thanks. jody

I like that dark color! Being normal stain would never dry on plastic, I presume these are nothing more then colored markers, but they seam to work great according to your pics! Now the next question is baing able to clear over them for a high poly shine appearance would be a question. IWhat base are these markers like enamel or laquar or what? Thanks. Now I have to go find me a nice dark color. That looks great!