Toner283

After the photobucket implosion, I switched to Fotki on the recommendation of several friends. One of whom is a professional photographer with thousands of images stored on Fotki for several years with zero issues. After fighting with PB for the last couple of years to do anything (upload, post, organize, etc), Fotki is a breeze to work with. You get a free trial to check it out and the basic paid accounts are a very reasonable cost IMO.

You have some definite gold there. I see some original 60's kit parts that were only in the first couple of kit issues and have not been in subsequent issues. Some of those chrome sprues, if they are old (60's), I would not cut them yet. If you were to take pictures that show each sprue clearly and post them in the trade thread, you might be surprised at the trade offers you would get. There are a lot of parts that have been modified or deleted entirely from tooling over the years that people would love to have. Same with the styline (custom) front and rear end parts. For some of the smaller kits, check ebay under the completed and sold listings. The sold listings will give you a better idea what some of the kits are bringing. Some guys ask high dollars and never sell but the sold for $ amounts are a good indicator. That blue buick kit (1/32?) I think is worth a few bucks if it is mostly complete.

Yes it would. I kinda automatically thought of airbrush jars when bubbaman asked about transferring paint to a smaller jar.

The meanings of the words Roadster Cabriolet and Sport coupe have changed a bit over the years. However, when dealing with pre-war Fords, specifically late 20s or early 30s the generally accepted meanings of the terms are as follows: A Roadster is a vehicle with a non fixed windshield, no roll up windows in the doors and a folding convertible style top. Since they have no solid windows in the sides they usually have side curtains that clip or snap into place to keep out the weather. They were the lightest cheapest car in any manufacturers lineup. This is also why they were usually used as the first choice for hot rods - lighter equals faster. At Cabriolet has a fixed windshield, doors with partial window frames (front window frame only, no top or rear window surrounds), roll up solid glass windows in the doors, and a folding convertible style top. They were much more weather-tight then a roadster. The owner of a Cabriolet could have the top down to enjoy warm sunny weather and when the weather turned nasty, put the top up and stay warm and dry. Generally a Cabriolet gave you the best of both worlds between a coupe and a roadster. However, they were not produced in anywhere near the numbers of the roadsters or the coupes and as a result they are fairly scarce nowadays. A Sport coupe usually referred to a coupe with a fabric covering on the roof that resembled a folding convertible style top. However, they had a fixed windshield, roll up windows, full frames around the door windows and the top was fixed in position, it did not fold down. Basically, they were a fake Cabriolet. Sport Coupes were produced in even smaller numbers than the Cabriolet was. As a result of this a Sport coupe is even harder to find than a Cabriolet nowadays. As for the term convertible, it did not gain widespread use as terminology until the late 30s and early 40s to describe a vehicle. And it has since been used as a term to describe any vehicle with a fold-down roof by the general public. Similar to how most people ask for a Kleenex when they need a tissue no matter what brand the tissue is.

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Average of $3267.22 each winner.

Go to an art supply store and look for pipettes. They are intended for paint transfer. They are also fairly inexpensive as well.

The Revell sedan does have a flathead in the kit. It is the optional engine, the other engine is the same boring small block Ford that is in almost every iteration of the Revell deuce family. The sedan is the only one that got a flathead out of the bunch. I believe it is an aod behind the Flathead and it is the same 9in with ladder bars that is in all of the rest of the kits.

Model A all the way. Model A's were a four-year run, the deuce was a single year. More raw material to work with equals more cars hot rodded. Depending on whose figures you believe there were somewhere between 7 and 9 million Model As made over the four-year run. (All body styles included in that number). Those numbers are the domestic production not including anything made overseas and I cannot find whether the Canadian production numbers were included in that total or not. Long story short, there were a pile of them around as raw material.

I cannot see in the listing if it says or not but there is a builder named Paul Hettick (pretty sure that is his name) who has a big following on ebay for built models. Deservedly so, his models are excellently built. The ones he builds routinely sell for north of $1000. Some of them far north of $1,000. If this one is one of his it doesn't surprise me that it sold for that much.

I was not sure 100% either after some thought (high school was a long time ago now) and I didn't want to trust my memory. I only ever had a couple of Elkys and wagons, so I did some research in my files and notes and discovered that my memory was not totally accurate but also not totally inaccurate either. The wagons shared the same wheelbase (108") as the coupes and 4dr sedans and from the rear wheels forward were all basically identical. However the rear portion of the frames were different on the wagons. With the fuel tank mounted and shaped differently than the 2 & 4 drs and the filler neck coming out of the quarter panel instead of between the tail lights, the rear rails are slightly longer on the wagons and the body mounts are totally different. The frame rails at the back are also farther apart due to the fuel tank, filler neck and spare tire well. The spare tire in a wagon is stored flat under the rear cargo area, in an Elcamino it is upright behind the passenger seat in the cabin and in the 2 & 4dr sedans it is upright in the trunk. The Elky is a completely different beast again when is comes to the frame. Longer wheelbase (117") and longer behind the rear wheels than the 2& 4dr sedans, it has different body mounts behind the wheels than the sedans or the wagons. Mostly due to an Elcamino specific fuel tank/filler neck and no spare tire well. So. As far as a donor kit for the malibu wagon resin body, you are right, the Revell Olds Cutlass would be the best detail-wise. But to be accurate, the fuel tank will need modified or a new one scratch built to match the wagon tank and a spare tire well scratch built also. Depends on how 100% accurate Luc wants to be. Without the resin body and the possible donor kit(s) in hand to compare, making a determination as to which donor will work best is kinda difficult. Like someone said, it depends on which kit perrys used for the master and if the wheelbase was changed/corrected on the master. If he used the 1/24 mpc Elcamino as the master, the 1/25 Revell Cutlass chassis and frame will likely be too small to properly fit the resin wagon body. Physical measurements of the resin body and the possible donor kits would be the best route to take IMO.

Sure looks like the same color. You very well could be correct that they made a few of the 40 Ford kits in that blue to use up the styrene already in the hopper or already liquified. Waste not want not. I would love to see a pic or two of the 40 Ford in this blue in the box. Unfortunately the parts in the picture are the only blue parts that I have.

No problem. If you have any other questions I will try to answer them. As for my Malibu, it is an old school back half pro street car. 1979 Malibu Landau (fancy extra chrome trim) 454/TH400 with a 4.56 geared nine inch rear. 6 point roll cage inside with bucket seats in the front and just the wheel tubs and the cage in the back. It is built do do one thing, be a rocket in a straight line. And it does that job pretty well. I have scared the carp out of more than one passenger when I floor the loud pedal. Lol And the decal on the trunklid has instigated more than one race.?

I agree with this 100% You don't need one but it helps stop pressure spikes when starting and stopping. Along with this, a friend of mine lives in a condo and he has a compressor from home depot with a 15 gallon tank. Bought during a fathers day sale it was $150. He runs it until it is full during the day/afternoon and then he can paint whenever he wants to. He just unplugs it so it wont fire up at 3 am and piss off his neighbors. A 15 gallon tank with the air stored at 120 psi will paint one and maybe even 2 model cars depending on scale and complexity. 15 gallons of air stored at 120 psi lasts a long time when you are only using it at 10-15 psi. Just to give you another option to think over.

I used to strip and sell off G body parts after high school for extra $$ to spend on my own projects so I know these cars well. I have owned close to 50 of them over the years. I still have several with a couple of others owned by family members. Station wagon in Elky frames are the same length. They are slightly longer than the regular sedans (about 4 inches IIRC). Two-door and four-door sedans however have the same frame underneath them in the G bodies. Malibu, Lemans, Regal, Cutlass, Gran Prix, Grand National (Regal Based), Monte Carlo and Bonneville all share basic architecture under the skin. Just to clear up a bit of confusion, Malibu and LeMans doors are interchangeable. Malibu and El Camino doors are interchangeable however the glass is different - the Elky glass slopes down at the back following the roofline. Buick Regal, Olds Cutlass, Pontiac Gran Prix etc share the same inner door structure, however they will not interchange with Malibu or Lemans doors due to door skin and bodyline differences. They will physically bolt on but they will look screwy. Same idea with the front clips. The physical mounts where they bolt on are the same across the models but the body lines and in several cases the inner fenders are different. As far as a donor kit it will depend on scale differences. The 1/24 scale Elcamino or Grand National kits IMO look huge sitting beside 1/25 models. The new Cutlass kits frame would be a match for a Malibu frame. Some pics of a few of mine:

As a lifelong country boy who has spent many many miles running on gravel roads, if the gravel roads are well-traveled enough and the dirt is hard enough packed you will get some squealing and even leave black marks on the right road. That dirt can get packed down just as hard as cement sometimes.

As of yesterday they still had a few of the lifetime subscriptions left if anyone needs one.

I have a couple of questions for the resident kit historians and the guys who were there back when this kit was first released. I have always liked the Monogram 1940 Ford truck. Even with its quirks and ill fitting doors, it has always been a fun kit to build. I have built a few with a couple more variations planned. I will usually try to buy parts kits or lots when I see original issue parts mixed in. That greeny turquoise color is hard to miss. Wheels and tires have changed over the years and custom and stock parts from the first couple of issues have vanished. I have seen this kit molded in two slightly different shades of that original turquoise, white (old school slot car kit), orange, yellow, at least two different shades of red and another in white (latest "trucks" issue). I have boxed trucks and box art from all that I know of except the original slot car kit. I recently bought a parts lot off of ebay and mixed into it is a few parts molded in a royal blue color that I have never seen before. The custom grille piece and the custom tailgate are among the parts as well as a stock wheel and post to mount the spare on the box side in the stock version of the truck. Several other parts are also included such as the block halves, hood hinge and door hinge halves and the road flares. Anyways, on to my questions. Has anyone ever seen this kit molded in blue? Any pictures available of the box art? When was the blue version issued? Due to the stock wheel, the custom tailgate, the custom grille and the road flares, I am led to believe that it was released fairly early on in the toolings life since none of those parts were in later issues. I have posted a picture to show the parts that I have. These parts are definitely molded in the royal blue color, not painted. Included in the picture are a few original kit pieces from the same parts lot for reference.

Do some online searches for a product called Molotow chrome paint pens. They come in 1, 2 and 4 mm tip widths and you can also get a refill container that can be sprayed through an airbrush. One of the most realistic-looking chrome paint products that I have ever seen.

The seperate running board in in most of the kits that I have but it is an extra. The fender/running board unit is complete with both running boards molded in.

Tamiya smoke I have found works excellent to spray a light coat over chrome to make it more realistic and less toy-like. As far as black wash, I use tamiya flat black or semi gloss black as needed, thinned by about a third with the tamiya thinner.

The engine half looks like it may be the caddy engine from the amt 59 elcamino kit. And the log manifold might be the amt 53 ford truck. Not 100% on either of those and currently at the in laws so cant check my stash to be sure.

Pack rat got this one 100%. Fits below the cargo floor at the rear. On a 40 sedan delivery, the spare tire is stored horizontally below the cargo floor just inside the rear door. The "hump" on the part is the treads on the spare tire sticking out.

The parts pack that I would like to see issued would only cost the plastic, chroming and packaging costs. The chrome reverse wheels included in the newest issue of the AMT 36 ford roadster/coupe kit (already tooled and on their own small sprue!) and a set of the new tool wide whitewall firestone tires. Release those as a parts pack and I believe they would sell as well or better that the gasser wheel and tire set. I know that I would buy a bunch of them.