Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

dragcarz

Members
  • Posts

    2,128
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by dragcarz

  1. Very cool !
  2. Thanks for all the kind comments! Slixx Decals, makes the decal set. I normally try and purchase two sets, because stuff happens! These were older decals as I have had them quite awhile. I really struggled with the hood decals trying to get them to conform to the multiple contours. The decals seemed thick and I eventually cut and pieced the decals to make them fit. I ended up buying a third set of decals and used them to finally get it completed. They looked terrible but I hoped the clear would help. The spears on the side cracked and I had to piece them together. I finally got the decals on and tried a two part clear I picked up at the ACME show last year. When I sprayed it, the back window mural lifted and crinkled, the purple decal down the center took on an snake shin looking texture. Nothing happened to the side decals, they did fine???? Two coats, and after it dried I threw the mess back into the box. Then a year or so later I had some of my old faithful DuPont Clear left over and I did not want to waste it but I didn’t have anything ready for clear. I grabbed the Mustang body, and with nothing to lose and gave it three coats of clear, the body was swimming in clear coat. I let it dry a month and started aggressively sanding to thin the clear some, I worked up through several grades of sandpaper until it started to shine, I then polished it. When you look close you can see every issue in the decals, but it’s under the shine. It looks good in the case.....from a couple feet away. I have used a lot of Slixx decals with no issues, and I still think they have a great product. The tin work took two tries to get right. The first was too purple, I had an old spray can of Testors #6130 Burgundy Purple Metal Flake that turned out to be the best match.
  3. Ok I’ve finally got a couple things finished up and I can concentrate on the Maverick. When I started this, I pulled the AMT 67 Mustang kit for the chassis as the original Johan chassis leaves a lot to be desired, and the one that came with mine was a mess. I pulled several other kits for other options, the AMT 67 Shelby Mustang has the same parts as the AMT 67 Mustang, the 68 AMT Shelby Mustang is old school with an inaccurate chassis pan, seems like the 67 chassis parts would fall into the 68, making it a much better build. I tried the Revell 69 Mustang SCJ kit and it’s not a good fit. The Revell 68 Mustang needs way too much work to work. Returning to my original thought, and test fitting it, it’s amazing how well the firewall fits. The front frame rails need shortening only a small amount. I had already removed the fuel tank from the Maverick and the Mustang . I will use the Maverick tank. The rule book states no light weight aftermarket seats, any factory seat is allowable. I have no reference for the interior of the actual car, so I may have to get creative. I used a Comp resin Grumpys toy scoop and cut the end off at an angle , looks pretty good.
  4. EXPENSIVE PAINT STRIPPER I can be a little frugal, I buy a lot of built ups of models I want to build but I don’t want to pay a lot of money for a collector kit only to build it. Most of the kits I buy are painted, or just filthy and need attention. I have used this stuff for years and I highly recommend it. You can get a gallon from Walmart for under $10.00, use it over and over. I keep a plastic container with a lid for bodies and creep a jewelry cleaning container with the little basket for small parts. It well strip chrome and the clear undercoat in anywhere from an hour to overnight. The only paint it seems to not like is flat black, it will take a little longer and some scrubbing, but most will come off. I’ve only experienced a plastic problem with the Lindberg 53 Ford, as it softened the plastic, but I was still able to repaint and finish it.
  5. I have passed on picking one of these up may times as I wasn’t sure about it. After seeing yours I’ll probably try and grab one. Yours looks great! Very well done and I can’t wait to see it completed.
  6. Your looks like a 63 from the chrome trim on the side. I have a 63 front bumper and grill your welcome to it, just PM me. It you watch EBay parts pop up on these mostly reasonably priced. The glass from a 61 thru 63 are the same, and clear custom tail lights are mounted in the center.
  7. That was the California Flash, I work three projects at a time now, it helps when things need to dry or set up. I can keep working on something with out rushing and screwing something up.
  8. Your build is beautiful!
  9. Looks great
  10. Thanks again everyone, the shine hides all the flaws, DuPont Chroma Clear, I don’t even think they make it any more, sanded and polished.
  11. Looks great to me! The kit is very accurate for being produced so long ago. You did a great job on it. I painted mine, and I have a few of these kits, I might try to do a clear body version.
  12. Thanks everyone
  13. Started back in 2005, finally finished. Thanks to Snake and the Bring Out Your Dead forum, I pushed and just finished it. I have posted some of its issues at various times with problems I encountered on the forum looking for help, so it may be familiar to some. Needless to say it’s Not my best work, it’s not even close to what my original plan, which was Shirley Muldowney’s yellow Mustang funny. Anyway here it is, feel free to comment the good the bad or the ugly.
  14. I got it done, more posted in finished Drag Racing
  15. Put some fuel in the tank and light it...... Just amazing John, looks so real!
  16. Thanks everyone!
  17. I had hoped to finish this today, but you know how it goes. He’s where I’m at, it getting close.....
  18. Wow, that’s just amazing!!!!!
  19. I built this shortly after it’s release in, I think 85. I built it and gave it to my brother in law, he’s a great guy and we’ve been to the drag races many times together over the years. 6 years ago I had to move to Georgia for my job, and we don’t get to hang out or go to races like we used to. Recently we returned home for a visit and I asked if he still had it, he retrieved it from his office and I got to visit a very early build. It still looked great, and only had a couple loose parts. I pulled out the cell phone and got some pictures of it. It’s a little dusty.
  20. Many years ago, I was able to purchase a collection of models from a man in Rosebud Missouri. He had quit modeling in 1962. In that collection was a few pick ups, a built 60 Ford, a built 61 Ford, an unbuilt 60 Chevy, and a started 62 Ford. I can’t bring myself to redo the built trucks, so there in the display case, but I’ve been working off and on, on the 62. I go back and forth on a stock service truck for my hopeful one day Texaco station, and a day 2 driver. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Here’s where I am now. I repaired holes in the cowl, and repaired the sink marks. I wanted a different color for this truck other than the standard white, red, that so many trucks are. I went with gray..
  21. Cut a popsicle stick the width between the letter and the edge of the gate, start with 240 grit sand paper wrapped around the end and start sanding. It will go faster than you think. Once the area is flat, use bottle primer and brush the primer only where it is needed. When it’s dry sand with 320, or 360 grit using the same popsicle stick, and brush prime again if needed. This way you control just what needs sanding and the brush primer keeps the primer build up from diminishing the detail around the area. Hope this helps. Here’s my 62 so far.
  22. I was wondering if you’d be interested in a stock hood from a Blazer kit, I have an extra if you need it. I like what your doing here, great work so far. Early Baja vehicles are really cool. I’d love to do a replica of Steve McQueens Truck from way back when. Keep at it I’d love to see it completed! PM me, if your interested.
×
×
  • Create New...