Brudda

Oh yeah!!! Great build

Another super build from the CT Studio!!!

Fantastic job! One of the coolest cars on the planet.!!

Very nice work!!!

Set the rear suspension. Want to see the ride height. Looks ok. Starting to come around.

Here is some pics of the modified spindles and the mfh rotors and calipers. Just mocking it up as I had to modify the upper ball joint to get the right camber on the front wheels. I’m going to add the brake lines and tie rods later. I just wanted a simple old tamiya kit to be an easy build, but noooo it’s the hardest tamiya kit I have ever worked on.

Hello Rich, and thank you. You’re right, I guess I’m fighting that feeling also. You know it’s way off but I’m just trying not to let the kit get to me. I am making this from two kits from a swap meet . Bought them about two years apart. One for $10 and the other for $15. I wondered why some of the parts were missing but now I know why. They were mad, threw the parts away. Those guys were saving themselves from insanity.

HA! Thank you Pierre, this build is an inaccurate as it gets. I finally said the kit is way off . The crazy problems are crazy. I am using all of my experience on this kit. Has warp problems, pin marks, sink marks, but the biggest problem is the plastic. I was sanding the seam lines out on a coil and the coil fell apart into pieces. A solid piece of plastic! I have an old otaki kit and I have not finished it because of the same plastic brittle problem. So I’m fighting that issue. I’m hoping that it does not turn into a big pile of crumbling plastic.

Here is the modified spindle and the mfh rotor and caliper. Compared to the tamiya kit part. The rotor should be more in the wheel in real life. Just because of the unsparing weight of the wheel to brake. As it is on the model, it’s totally not right. But for a model , not many people are engineers on f1 brakes . It will look ok for the model. This kit is soo far off the original anyways that most people will not even notice.

Here is the tamiya rotor and the mfh rotor and caliper. I need to put the mfh stuff on the car. The tamiya caliper is on the spindle. I’ll have to modify the Tamiya spindle.

Building out of sequence. Going to put the exhaust on last. That way I can get a good alignment. If I put them on now I will have to fight to keep them out of harms way. I really did not want to do this but the rotors and lack of calipers on the tamiya kit are really bad. I’m going to use my parts bin of mfh parts to modify the brake and rotors on the Honda. I really wanted to keep this build simple , but since I have the parts and the car is turning out better than I thought it would, I’m going the extra mile to make it a little better. I just wanted a simple build but NOOO, I have to improve it. I need to see a doctor. I did want to make this an inexpensive build. , that was my main goal. $10 for one kit,that was incomplete . $15 for the other incomplete kit, $18 for the decals, and the other parts are kit bashed parts that were given to me by other modelers. So I guess I’m not in it very much. The photoetch parts are extra from my other mfh kits. Here are pics of the improved rotors, calipers. Again it’s not correct but it will look better. I hope the fragile suspension can handle the weight of the tire, wheel , rotors and calipers. Here goes ……..

Very nice!!! I had a 1984 black with a maroon interior. Fantastic car. Driving thru Nevada at 95 mph and it got 27 mpg. Miss that car.

What a mess of pipes. Filling the seams on the collectors. Then paint. I was going to make an exhaust manifold but you cannot even see the beginning of the pipes. So I’ll leave it. The plastic is so brittle that it breaks when I’m sanding the seam lines out of the pipes. I was sanding my coils and the one just broke in a few pieces , never had this happen on any model before. I’m expecting the car to disintegrate into a mess of plastic.

Thank you Dave B

I noticed in the pic that the fuel lines just about touched the exhaust. Not good in real life. On the real car there is a heat shield that the model does not have. Might have to make that also,

Starting of the spaghetti exhaust mess. One half sanded and trying to fit. Looks ok I guess. Have to make a make shift exhaust manifold. Totally not accurate. The exhaust just hangs in mid air. Weird. Will finish the other side in a few days. There is a lot of sanding of seam lines .

I think indycals have some.

A little wiring. And a few things added to the engine. Fuel lines next.

A little more. Totally not accurate. Will wire the engine soon. Nothing too fancy. This build is not going to be very detailed. I’m saving myself for the model factory hiro 917/30. That will be detailed. The exhaust is still confusing. They just hang there. Tried to contact unobtainable for the 3d printed exhaust but no reply. So I’ll be using the kit exhaust. Will see how it plays out.

Very very nice!

Hello Bainford. I’m in Nevada and we have the same laws for paint products as California. It’s mostly political so I will not get into that. I have a shed set up just for painting my models. Heat, air conditioning air extraction. and it’s really dry here. I do not spray even in my garage. Just my paint shed which is far from the house. I have automotive respirators and all of the safety equipment. Even with this I’m still real careful with the paints and 2k clears. I wear a suit and gloves, and special glasses, just like work. If you’re careful , you will be fine. But for most modelers it costs money for safety. Most of my model friends just shoot the stuff anywhere and they wonder why they feel terrible.

We have the same problem in 1:1 scale. The water based , base coats are waterborne but the clears are 2k. But the water based paints have a certain set of problems. It’s hard for your body to get rid of water based paints. The cells in your body do not get rid of the paints, instead the paint attaches to your cells because it’s water. Your body tried to get rid of lacquer or solvent based products, because your body sees the paint as attacking the body. It does not with water. This is what I was told by a coworker that had to quit his job as an automotive painter. All in all guys please be careful. Tim’s just trying to keep us safe.

This point should be taken seriously. I started in the body industry in 1970. We were using lacquer based paints with the occasional enamel complete paint jobs. I was wearing a mask and my coworkers were not. They are now dead because of a paint related issue. Fast forward to today. In just the last 2 years, 2 of the fellow body shop painters just had lung problems and kidney problems so severe that they had to quit their jobs. These guys were using the complete fresh air systems on the market and still had big health issues. So is Tim correct on 2K clears, YES!!!! Mask up with a professional paint mask, not the little paper ones for dust. Might as well not wear anything if you’re going to use those paper masks. And also for you political people I did not just say spray without a mask. Spend the money, get a professional paint respirator, what are your lungs worth? And do not paint this stuff in your house! Even if you think you have a great spray booth. The overspray that you don’t see is what hurts you.

This would make a great 1:1. If I can pull it off , would you let me copy this as a 1:1? This is what I do for a living . These are my friend Kevin’s cars. But I also have several under construction.

WOW! This is a great build. Love the look, stance, color. Has all of the right stuff. I have judged a lot of shows and this one is a winner in my book.