Kit Basher

Hey, thanks Bill A. This is a manual so I will paint engine and bell, and iron for the trans. (With maybe a little rust ) Thanks again!

You're right, I have done the Ebay thing and it frequently helps a lot. I've also done as you suggested and clicked links of photos and had good success. Unfortunately, my most recent research (1970 Dodge Challenger) was less successful. That's why I was wondering if there was a more generic answer. Obviously, there is not. Thanks again for your info and response!

Thanks, Bill. That is an area that is sometimes hard to find images of. I will keep looking. I appreciate your feedback.

Most models I see of '60s-'70s cars have the bell housing and trans painted to look like "natural" aluminum. Is this correct, or were they steel or iron and painted? Thanks!

I'm with Casey on this. Do you know if the modeler you describe even exists? Do you know someone who feels that kind of pressure? It seems more likely to me that elite builders do what they do because they can and they like to.

Really nice!

Looks nice! It's fun to build models of cars you've owned, isn't it?

"Expert work expected?" I don't get that flavor from this place at all. More like "effort appreciated". The responses I see on here are usually helpful and supportive. I don't read every thread, so perhaps I inadvertently miss some drama, but it seems like most folks are of good will and here to share in the fun. Certainly there is some expert work posted here, all the way up to flat out amazing, but even those builders don't come off as "snobs" or "superior". When I have posted my own models (definitely not expert), I have received "attaboys" and constructive criticism. I appreciate both. How can you learn anything if you never know when you're wrong? I like this forum, and if it's only for expert work, how come I haven't been kicked out yet?

WOW!

That is gorgeous!

I'd go for that BMW 2002. A very hot car! I watched them in a SCCA race back in '69 or '70. They lapped the entire field, including the Mustangs and Corvettes. The only thing faster were the Carreras.

Hey Jim, is that the glue bomb I sent you? If so, that's an amazing transformation! If not, it still looks great!

Here are a couple: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64826&hl=sprue

Just out of curiousity I mixed some pearl powder in some flat green paint, and I got.......flat green. How about mixing some metalflakes in Dullcote?

Thanks, John!

Hey, thanks Chris! That looks pretty good. Have you seen one of these in person? Do you know what the quality is like?

Absolutely gorgeous!

Whew, a lot to process! It sounds like they all have some kind of issue. Let me take this is some kind of order: I see the problem with the AMT roof, it does look kinda loopy. Sounds like more body work than I want to get into. Revell faked me out with the 1/24 kit. They re-boxed it as a 2-in-1, with no mention of T/A. I thought it was an R/T, but after reading several descriptions I can see it is the same T/A kit I already have. The Revell 1/25 R/T sounds worthless. Considering that I probably have a snowball's chance of finding a MPC kit, I may go back to my original plan of trying to convert the T/A hood to the twin scoop one. How bad can I mess it up, right? (Hah!) Thanks for all the info guys.

I wouldn't rule out an AMT kit, I just haven't seen one. The Revell kits are readily available. Also, I am particularly interested in the "two vent" hood that both Revells seem to have. After a quick look on Ebay, it appears the AMTs have a shaker hood. Actually, the hood is my main issue. If the hood from the 1/24 Revell R/T would fit my 1/24 T/A, that might be all I would need. I just thought it might be easier to get the whole kit.

Which Revellogram kit of the '70 Challenger R/T is better, the 1/24, or the 1/25. All things being equal, I would go with 1/25, but if the 1/24 is much better, I might go that way. I already have the Revell Challenger T/A, but I would like to have the R/T as well. Thanks in advance.

Thanks Snake!

I got it! I forgot I bought some artist's blending stumps for just this purpose. Worked perfectly!

Brayden- That's a good idea, but the shape of the part won't allow it in this case. Snake- I've done that on body emblems, it works great. Unfortunately, the color of these letters is aluminum and red. Chris- That looks great, how did you do it? Thanks for the input, guys!

I always have a hard time painting tiny raised letters, like body scripts or on valve covers. Specifically, right now I'm trying to paint the "HEMI" on the valve covers of an '09 Challenger. I've tried four times and failed each time. I've tried dry brushing (as best I understand it) with a 10/0 brush, and a toothpick, both the pointy end and a flattened end. I also tried a Sharpie. I either get too much paint, which flows down onto the valve cover, or not enough, and sort of blotchy coverage. I am painting the letters withTestors aluminum paint over semi-gloss black. Is there some trick to this that I'm not getting? Would a different tool or paint be better? Or is it a case of "practice, practice, practice"?

Barrel stoves are cheap and they work, but they will burn out over time. If you can find an airtight, fire brick lined stove, it will be much more efficient. Something along the lines of the old Fishers. I have been heating my home exclusively with wood for 30 years, and have used the same stove all those years. Look around a bit, I bet there's one sitting in somebodys garage that they haven't gotten rid of cause it's too heavy to move! Good luck and stay warm!