Kit Basher

Thanks Mark and Cato. So far the smallest bottles I have found are 4 oz. It would definitely take me a couple of years at least to use that much. Do you guys have any problem with shelf life? Thanks Bill, a simple yet elegant solution. I will definitely give that a try.

I don't use a lot of epoxy, but there is no substitute for it when I need it. Because I use so little, I have been buying the Devcon in the metal tubes. The problem is, once you open those tubes, they leak and make a total mess. Is there any alternative for small quantities of epoxy that would get me out of this "sticky situation"? TIA

Extra front down force!

The plastic rat lines in the kit I had many years ago were junk. Your homemade ones will be a huge improvement. Sounds like a ton of work, tho. Looks great, carry on!

I think Testors Metalizer Sealer works pretty well. It only takes a tiny bit, and I can't tell the difference in appearance with or without it.

It's not hard to make your own decals. I did a quick search on here and didn't find a tutorial, but I know it's been discussed many times. The only big problem is if you need something that's all white. That requires a special printer. Otherwise, if you can find an image of what you want, you can re-size it and print it with your home printer. I suggest doing a web search to see if you can find a tutorial on the process. Then if you have any questions about the details, I'd be happy to share my limited knowledge.

NICE!

Whaddya call that second one, the "Admiral Nelson"?

Totally Awesome is sold at Dollar Tree. And yes, it is a dollar, for a quart. It is excellent for removing enamel model paint. I've stripped several old bodies with it and they come out perfectly clean. Even tho my strip tank is now a yucky green color, it still works. For stripping chrome, it removes the plating fast, not so much on the undercoat. For the really tough yellowish gunk, count me in the Easy Off group. It sometimes takes a while and some scrubbing, but it will get rid of it.

Thanks, guys. I do cut the clear border away, it even shows up on a black air cleaner. I also cut out the center where the wingnut is. Bill, I like the idea of cutting it into two decals. I thought of that, but I was afraid it would end up too small. I will definitely try that.. I will get some Micro-Sol. I will have to wait until I can get to my LHS, which is not very often. If it's a month before I get it, would it still work on the decal I have already applied? I'd like to get that one last wrinkle!

Any advice on how to get these decals to lay down? I'm talking about the ones on Mopars, like "440 Magnum" where a flat decal has to conform to a cone shaped air cleaner. I asked this question once before, and got some very good advice: Use decal set and a cloth soaked in hot water to press it down. This almost works for me, but I still get at least one tiny wrinkle. I have tried Micro-Set and Testors Decal Set. I have not tried Micro-Sol, which I understand is stronger. Is that the answer, or is it just "operator error"? TIA

Steve, I understand the problem of mixing small quantities of Alumilite rubber. If the kit you are using has the "2 oz. rubber, 1 scoop catalyst" method, it works well, but that can be too much rubber for small molds. I have had some success using 1 oz. rubber and eyeballing 1/2 scoop catalyst. Two oz. of rubber will make a mold about 2" x 3" x 3/8"-1/2" thick. If you can find enough parts to fill that area, or have more than one mold ready to pour at one time, you can avoid wasting too much rubber. I agree with Ken that casting can be addictive. I often copy parts from one kit to use on another model. That way the donor kit is still complete. Or I may make multiples of parts that kits should have but don't. The current example is brake drums for 60-70s American cars. Hope that is helpful, have fun!

An AMC Eagle wagon. Complete with wood grain. Haven't seen one of those in a loooooong time!

I had this kit when I was a teenager. I did pretty good with the assembly and painting, but the rigging utterly defeated me. Never finished it. I look forward to seeing it done successfully!

That's gorgeous! Is it like a pearl white?

I can't figure out how to link you to it, but if you search "resin casting tutorials", there is a 23 minute video one on YouTube by vegeta8259 that I used to get started. It doesn't show car bodies, but it is pretty good for the basics.

I have found that round jaw pliers (available in the jewelry section of a craft store) help a lot in shaping plug wires.

All good ideas, Gentlemen. The Silly Putty is a neat trick. I like that articulated vise. I have several of those "third hand" things with the arms and the alligator clips. Being a cheapskate, I may try to attach a clamp that holds better than alligator clips to one of those. Thanks, guys. Any more ideas, bring 'em on!

I was wiring an engine today, a job that apparently requires a minimum of three hands. Do any of you guys use a vise or holder of some kind to do this kind of work? If so, please describe. Thanks

Absolutely stunning!

Spectacular!

Wow! Really nice!

Hey, thanks Bill A. This is a manual so I will paint engine and bell, and iron for the trans. (With maybe a little rust ) Thanks again!

You're right, I have done the Ebay thing and it frequently helps a lot. I've also done as you suggested and clicked links of photos and had good success. Unfortunately, my most recent research (1970 Dodge Challenger) was less successful. That's why I was wondering if there was a more generic answer. Obviously, there is not. Thanks again for your info and response!

Thanks, Bill. That is an area that is sometimes hard to find images of. I will keep looking. I appreciate your feedback.