Kit Basher

I am trying to put BMF on an unpainted body (the grille surround on an '09 Challenger). The foil worked fine on 3/4 of the area, but there is one small section where it absolutely refuses to stick. I'm using the same foil from the same area of the sheet, and it sticks just fine to my tweezers. I washed the area with Dawn, no change. Any suggestions? My plan was to foil the surround, paint the whole area black, then remove the paint just at the front edge where the chrome is on the 1:1. Since I would be masking the black to paint body color, the foil needs to stick well.

Looks great! Nice paint and foil work.

What a cool idea, it looks great! I really like all the detail and scratch building you are putting into it. Keep it coming!

Amazing!

I agree!

C'mon you wood guys. Oak, pine, poplar, all second rate. Cherry is king! BTW, mahogany makes everybody sneeze (sooner or later). The best smell in the universe (that doesn't involve a female) is freshly plowed ground!

Very nice!

Maybe the Webers from the AMT '63 Corvette? They look pretty big to me. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87081&hl=%2B%26%2339%3B63+%2Bcorvette

Where? Once you put the engine in, you'd have to sit on the roof to drive it!

OK, Skip. I think we have a winner! I wouldn't pee on that thing if it was on fire!

I have used Testors 2017 Gloss Clear Lacquer (bottle paint) over their enamels with no problem. It's possible your 1261 would work as well. Obviously, a test first would be a good idea. I am not a fan of clearing with Future, it doesn't give the same depth and warmth of other clears. Just my opinion, of course.

Me too! I drove one once, lots of fun! Thanks, Larry.

I have very limited experience to choose from, but of the ones I have built, I think the Revell '69 Charger, Revell SRT 10 Viper, and the LIndberg '53 Ford Victoria were the best for fit and detail.

Thanks, Bruce!

Thanks, Jeff, Byron, Carl, Chris, and Danno. Now I'm almost glad I didn't see the chrome trim before! Ignorance is bliss!

i agree with you about the tail lights, Harry. I think if I had noticed the chrome bezels in the first place, I would have drilled the holes a little bigger and put in a piece of aluminum tubing for a bezel. BTW, I put a mirror on it, just for you!

It does look like that at first glance. If you look closely, tho, you will see that if the stock bumpers were turned upside down, the bumper guards would cover part of the tail light. Also there is some curvature to the pan below the lights, while the area beside the license plate is basically flat. This kit is a "3 in 1", stock, custom, drag. I used the "custom" ones. I would have preferred to use the stock bumpers, but I thought they were missing from the kit until Lee helped me find them. The way they are molded on the sprue, I thought they were a custom front grille! Oh well, sometimes you eat the bear, sometimes the bear eats you.

Those are the "custom" bumpers. That is how they are supposed to go. I had already installed them before you helped me find the stock ones.

Thanks fellas! Thanks Lee. I just looked at pictures of the 1:1, I see what you mean about the chrome around the tail lights. I missed that when I was researching this car. Do you think the raised area on the kit body is too big? The chrome rings seem fairly subtle on the 1:1. The paint is Testors "Competition Orange".

I always liked these little cars. Here is my version of the AMT kit. Thanks for looking.

After reading your post I looked again at the chrome tree. The stock rear bumpers are there, but they are cleverly disguised! Thanks, Lee.

I just finished this kit. Overall it is pretty good, but it does have some issues. The body has a bunch of mold seams, but they are easily removed. However, the rear window/deck area required a lot of carving and sanding to get it to look right. The bumpers have flash and mold seams. I stripped, sanded, and sprayed Alclad on mine. Also, there are no stock rear bumpers in the kit, even tho they are shown in the instructions. The biggest problem is if you want to use the six spoke wheels. The instructions say to use the stock tires, (which are very nice, BTW), but the wheels do not fit the tires AT ALL! I had to do major surgery to the tires to get the wheels in, and then I had to cut away most of the stub on the back of the wheel to get the track right. They do include some plastic pins to take the place of the metal axles, and those are necessary to use those wheels. In general everything fits together well and it makes a nice looking model. I just wanted to give fair warning to anyone building this kit.

How 'bout this one? We bought it new in 1971. Still going strong.

An ALPS printer for 5 bucks at a yard sale. Now I just have to drop a couple hundred for cartridges and paper and I can make some really cool decals!

You're right, don't let paint dry on your brushes. I agree with Carl, keep a small bottle of mineral spirits on your bench. As soon as you're done with a brush, swish it in mineral spirits and roll it on a paper towel. Your Wal Mart thinner might work just fine used that way.