av405

Nice! I was waiting to see what someone would do with this kit. I can't wait to get my hands on it!

I haven't found any pictures on the web of this kit apart from the official ones from Revell. But here's a quick video of it: The grille isn't chromed either. It seems like a good kit for its intended audience but anybody who is half serious about building an accurate CV of the era would be dumb to choose this thing over the Lindberg model. Let's just hope this kit leads to a 98-2011 model as it seems to be happening with the Ford Raptor kit.

What would be the best paint to use for replicating the grilles/bumpers on these base trim trucks? I like working with Tamiya and acrylics in general for airbrushing and painting out of the can.

You're absolutely right, I had forgotten. By the way, using so many exclamation marks makes it seem like you're screaming!!!!! On the other hand, the OSP kit has the best and most detailed 1/24 - 1/25 Vector/Vision light bar out there. I'm confusing the Build N Play kits with the traditional SnapTite kits. Hopefully someone can post some pictures of this kit when they grab it. I'm just curious at this point more than I am interested.

The Lindberg kit could have been more detailed but it really is an excellent representation to the point that it leaves no room for improvement. As SSNJim points out, you're much better off getting the original Ohio State Patrol or Orange County Fire versions from the 90's. They contain slightly more parts and the lenses are painted in a much better manner. They go for the same price as the re-releases from a few years ago on ebay. I'm going to go ahead and assume that the markings are stickers. Revell has only included stickers with their Snap models. Maybe one day we will get a 98-2011 kit. After all, it took AMT 10 years to do a release of the Dodge Monaco kit.

It looks like a promising kit. I was on the rocks about getting one at first but now I'm convinced. Plus you can't beat a new truck kit for that price, even it if's a Snap!

The real question is, why didn't they do a new mold for the last-gen Crown Victoria? A question which will probably not be answered.

Brushing light coats has always worked for me, especially for something as small as a light bar. Just practicing on a spare light bar lens.

Here you go: http://www.policecarmodels.com/clearredpaint.html These are all you'll ever need.

Outstanding!

Gotcha. I was planning on doing the same thing with some of the lightbar bases from the Testors diecast Crown Victoria kit. Thank you.

Thank you. I'm currently smoothing down the side trim and I feel like I'm definitely making progress on that end. I think it'll turn out good. The funny thing about what you said is that I heard the same thing said about Bondo that you said about the Tamiya putty. I've only heard good things about the putty. I think I'll stick to it so long as I only apply a small amount. For larger areas I've always heard that it's best to go down the Bondo route.

Very nice! How did you make those bases for the light bar?

I just turned 24 and I can absolutely relate to this. I'm mostly interested in late 70's-present vehicles because those are the ones I have grown up seeing. I know there's a lot of love here for 50's-70's vehicles from the older crowd, but I just don't really share a huge interest in those vehicles as I can't really "relate" to them. I remember the first time my cousin and I went to a hobby shop back in 1999. Of all the kits there, we were mostly interested in the then-new Lindberg Crown Victoria and the Revell 1999 Chevy Silverado because those vehicles were familiar to us.

Nice work on all of these! David, I plan on adding side moldings to an Expedition I have in mind for a future project with some Evergreen strips. May I ask what you used to add yours?

Thank you all for your replies. As some brought this point up: Yes, I have been using small blocks when sanding and it has definitely helped to maintain an evenness. So if I'm understanding the consensus correctly, I should keep sanding with 800-1000 grit sandpaper and then apply bondo after to even things out if I go to far? Would Tamiya putty work in this case as well or is the bondo from an auto parts store better recommended? Also, let's say I wasn't shaving the side molding off and I just wanted to get good primer coverage but I ended up with the same result as above. So I just basically sand what I have right now with 1000 grit sandpaper and then give it another coat? I understand everybody has their own ways/methods but I appreciate how constructive this all is.

Just a quick intro. This is my first serious build since I was a youngster. I first introduced myself in this topic and got an amazing response as far as suggestions and tips go, particularly from Bill Geary (MrObsessive): http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=45265 A few years later and with more free time, I have decided to implement many of the suggestions that were given to me into building this Crown Vic. This kit is dear to me as, being my very first kit ever, it started my interest in this hobby back in 1999 when I was 8. As a snap kit,I figured it would make for a great first kit and learning experience. I haven't chosen what department this vehicle will represent yet, so that'll come later. That being said, I want to include you guys in this learning experience and would appreciate more words of wisdom. For reference, I started with this: I sanded the body down using 400 and 600 grit sandpaper. I shaved off the side door moldings and tried to smooth the doors down as much as possible. I then washed the body with dish washing soap and let it air dry in a partially open container. A day later I applied 2 light coats of Tamiya primer from a can and then gave it a wet coat at 5-10 minute intervals. Now I'm left with this: Problem #1: Ghosting. After sanding down the doors, I applied Ambroid Pro Weld to try to erase the memory of the side molding, a tip provided by Bill Geary. I then sanded down the door again but I'm still getting ghosting, particularly on the passenger side. Should I sand down/apply more pro weld or will subsequent coats of paint help? Problem #2: Mold lines. I tried sanding them down and trying the same weld method. Should I use a different grit? Problem #3: I don't think the primer went on as smooth as I had hoped. Notice the spotting: I know this was a mouthful but any advice/suggestions are welcome. I'm not aiming for perfection, especially not on my first adult build. But I think I can turn out something good with some guidance.

Revell has it listed for release this month: http://www.revell.com/new.html

He still makes it. I got one delivered to me about 7 weeks ago.

Well, unless it's that PJ guy on ebay. For what he charges, you might as well just buy the entire kit. I've come to realize that if you post in the "Wanted" section here, you often times get a response, no matter how random the part being requested is.

There was a resin conversion kit listed on ebay just a few days ago that I had never seen before. It contained the correct taillights. I'm going to try to track down the original listing.

Thank you for your detailed answer, it helped a lot

I'm currently trying to fashion a type of front bumper using K&S Precision Metal strips, specifically 1/32 x 1/8 in size. These are the same type of strips sold at Hobby Lobby. I was wondering what would be the best tool to cut these pieces and what would be the best adhesive to use to glue,say, a piece to plastic or to glue a piece of evergreen strip to the actually metal piece? I've never worked with these metal strips before. Thank you.

Great job so far! I have to give you credit for making such a comprehensive post of what you're doing, using, etc. Keep it up.

I got this from ebay, $21 total with free shipping. I had been looking for this kit for a while and when I saw the price, I couldn't pass it up. I was pleasantly surprised when I saw that the license plate decal included a license plate frame for "Alhambra Jeep," a dealer close by to me.