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Thank you Trevor. It really took a lot of restraint not to smack it against the wall quite few times. LOL

That may actually be my ticket - the stock Delorean. I would love to build one of those.

Well, after seeing the model here on the forums, I ordered one. It arrived earlier today (or is it yesterday now). I was actually super excited about it. I have way too many projects I'm trying to finish and the last thing on earth I need is yet another one. But I could not help it and started looking into it and mocking things up. Before you know it I was gluing the engine together... So what the heck, I'll build it. Let me tell you my first impressions. This is a really high quality kit. It is not quite Tamiya precision, but it is the closest Revell has ever gotten. The engineering is top notch and parts fit very well with very little cleaning or none at all. The engine is very detailed and it is really a shame that once build, none of that detail would be seen. This is actually one of the reasons why I don't mind adding it to my list of current projects. It is the perfect model to build straight from the box and enter in box stock class at shows, because just like on the real car, everything is hidden. Revell have still done an amazing job with the detail and engineering. Like some engine parts which could be molded together are done as separate pieces, just so they could be painted separately so paint detail can be executed with ease. That goes for the body and interior also. Having both right hand drive dash and center console and left hand drive is a very rarely seen option in kits and is a pleasant surprise. The second thing that impressed me are the wheels and tires. Again not quite Tamiya level threads on the tires, but getting there. Actually there is a little detail that is better than Tamiya/Fijimi/Aoshima on the wheels tire assembly. And that is the little groove on the inside of the tires, which first does not allow you to put the tire on the wheel in the wrong direction and then makes that annoying inner edge on the wheel sink in and sit flush. I love it. Third thing that is impressive is the decal sheet. The choice of two different stripes aside, it is a very well thought out decal sheet without being big or confusing. For example it offers three different "stitching" options for the emblems on the headrests of the seats, meaning you can have different color emblems for different color interiors. The decals on the engine cover give you two different color options for silver or black panels with contrasting "Corvette" script, but what is very cool is there is also a plain "Corvette" script, so if you want to color match the panels you can still have the emblems on it. There are four different main screen configurations for the dash and four different center console screen configurations, which means there are 16 different display configurations you can chose from. They're also British, Australian, Japanese and American license plates plus the "showroom" Vette plates. Best of all, most of the decals include a spare. For the seats there are three headrest emblems from each color. For brake calipers there are five decals in each of the two color choices. Same with all the emblems. And since the third brake light is a decal, there are two red ones, but also two tinted black ones if that's the route you would like to take. The only thing I believe Revell should really work on improving are the instructions. Some parts are vaguely pointed where they go or how they attach. I personally have no problem figuring it out, but I can see a lot of people being confused. Especially inexperienced builders. Still, overall I can definitely say that Revell has knocked it out of the ball park with this kit. The manner in which everything is done in my opinion shows that Carrera/Revell are clearly aiming at the Japanese competition. Now I just have to decide what color to make it.

Whichever way you go it will be fine. These cars are not only build to order, but their owners constantly change them, especially when they change hands. There are some there that are very subtle (if that could ever be said about a Huayra) and done in elegant colors inside and out. And then there are some clown cars that are a testament that money can't buy taste. The situation with thickness of finish coats affecting fitment can be an issue with any kit. As I said you have primer, black gloss, decal and clear. What's more is that this is on both mating surfaces as all my panels are covered with carbon, even underneath the hoods. So now you have double the coats. And I like using 2K clear, which will be generally slightly thicker. But if you build it without carbon decals it could be greatly beneficial for you. It will save you money, time, your sanity and fit better with less work. So go for it. I would love to see more of these built.

Man, that color...

This is super cool. I may have to find me one of these kits. I love the movie and it looks like a very detailed model. You did a fantastic job with it too.

I have been on his site many a time. I don't know how I never picked up any of his products. I have heard nothing but high praise of his parts.

This is wild!

Nice! It looks angry.

Great work! All the details is what makes this model so nice. The Tiki shifter, the heads, the air filters.... That paint... Your blend is so well done that at first I had figure out is it two different colors or is it a colorshift paint. Funny thing is that I always had a soft spot for the '49 Mercs and still have never build one.

Beautiful! The clear definitely made the color come alive. I believe that once you add all the contrasting black detail it will pop even more. Excellent job!

To be honest, I had Tamiya paint give me nightmares on more than one occasion and have achieved really nice results with "wallmart-garden-furniture-paint". My Good Guys Hot Rod of the Year tribute model was painted with two different Rustoleum colors and it turned out really nice. And so did my "Change of Pace '29". Is Rustoleum ever going to be my go-to model paint? No way! It is not the easiest to work with, but that doesn't mean it can't be used. I hate the Tamiya white primer with a passion. I think it's awful. Their copper metallic has given me hell and the Maroon color on my "Delivery Deuce" was just plain pain to work with for some reason. But I would still take Tamiya over any other hobby paint and their grey primers are so incredibly good that I would often shoot them straight from the can. And they handle almost anything on top. The point I am trying to make is that different things work differently for different people. I find people from the"Rustoleum Cult" described above equally ridiculous as the people on the other extreme end who are determined to convince the world that Rustoleum paint should never be used on models. Now, the issue with people not being able to accept opinions different than theirs is a whole different beer. I got banned from a group for giving an honest unbiased review of an expensive diecast model, just because some people could not accept the fact that they spend a lot of money on a mediocre model. And the dumbest thing was that I was reviewing my own model, which means I was in the same boat as them. It's pride and ego I guess and some people can never accept, God forbid admit, that they have made the wrong decision. Overall I think some people are taking their hobbies way too seriously, forgetting that after all we are just playing with toy cars.

I did not mean the spray cans working just the way they are. They do not. But they will store the paint better, safer and for longer than any other jar. And on top of that have a rattle ball that will mix it when you need to use it. What I meant was why overcomplicate the storage aspect.

Very very cool. I love how clean it looks, very smooth. And I mean the overall design of it, not just the paint, which is also excellent. I can almost smell Granny Smith apples looking at your model. LOL. Those RB Motion shocks look great. I have spent a lot of stupid money on whole lotta different useless hobby junk over the years. Yet I have never used a single RB Motion part. And they look like really high quality pieces. Tempting!

That's pretty neat. I love the color combo too.

Very cool. I love Morgans. I wish there were kits of the more modern ones. Same with TVR. Would love me some Aero 8 or Sagaris kits.

Thank you Carl. It took a while to finish, but it was worth it.

Looks really nice. What kit is that?

NADA ZIP ZILCH НИЩО NIENTE NOTHING I just read all the silly comments on the forum.

If you live in Philly you should have no problem going to the NNL East and it doesn't get much better than that.

Just go buy yourself a good 2K clear and a nice respirator and it would solve all your problems. You can spray it literally over anything, including decals or bare plastic. Spray it over watercolor finger paint if you want to. It will cure to the touch in about 2 hours and you can buff it in 12 to 24 hours without a worry. You just have to make sure you clean your airbrush immediately after you're done. It works basically like an epoxy. Mix 4 parts clear with 1 part hardener and the chemical reaction starts the clock. No baking, no one week cure times, no worries. It will give you better shine than anything else out there and it will protect your model, as it is the same thing that's on your real car.

What I use is SEM interior paint in flat black. It is a specially formulated professional grade interior die. You can literally spray the door panel in your real car and it will hold to years of use. It's cool because it looks great as a leather interior or on tires. The best part is that it doesn't like other paints underneath but can take pretty much anything over it. So no primer or anything under it. Spray it straight on plastic, resin or whatever. But then you can paint with whatever you want over it.

I airbrush a lot of spray can paint. Anything from Tamiya primer (and no, it's not the same when bought in a jar) to Walmart Rustoleum paint for garden furniture to automotive lacquers. And I have never felt the need to decant and store the paint outside its spray can. The absolutely best way to store it is in its metal spray can container. I don't decant any time before I use it. I have a big box of simple waxed paper shot cups. It's like $5 for a 100, 300? I don't know, something like that. Every time I need to use a color, I spray it in from the can into the cup. I swirl it a little to gas it out and pour it straight into my airbrush cup. Sometimes if paint is very gassy, like some Tamiya paints, it will literally look like it is boiling in my airbrush. I watch it fizzle up and settle and then just spray it. Never had an issue. This way Its easier to organize my colors as they are just in spray cans and I can see the caps from a mile away and on the can I have name, serial numbers, everything. Why overcomplicate things, when they work just fine the way they are?

I love reading about everyone's obsession about nippers. I wonder how were some of the amazing models I've seen at shows 15-20 years ago made, before Amazon and different fancy tool for every different part... Anywho... I use simple cutters from Hobby Lobby for 5.99. And they do just fine, followed by some good old fashioned Exacto blade, which I guess I would have to do even if I was using $90 nippers. They last me about a year, because during that year I would cut pretty much anything with them. Gates, sprues, aluminum, detail wire, breaded wire and even guitar string. I figured that after five years, I've had brand new blades at the start of every summer and still have spent less than what some of the lower end "specialty nippers" cost.

That’s a place I have found myself many times. Should I build it this way or that way… My approach in these cases is to get a second kit and build them both.