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mrm

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Everything posted by mrm

  1. You waited SIX YEARS to ask that question?!?! ???
  2. So the resins were too wide? if you go on Cults3D and find the same wheels (I’m pretty sure they’re on there) and tell me what they are, I can print them to match the size of the stock ones and it will fix your issue. And I wouldn’t need anything in return. Just wanna see your build finished.
  3. Now, that’s some good news.
  4. So, are there any news on upcoming Revell issues/reissues for the upcoming ‘25, or is everithing old news from almost two years ago?
  5. I agree wholeheartedly. And after all, we build models to push our own boundaries. I don’t build models specifically to try win contests or something. Or to please other people. I just build what makes me happy and like to share it with people at shows. I had some great conversations with other builders at the ACME show and they were saying “Oh, wow, if you didn’t tell me and explained what was done I would’ve never seen it.” And then they were suggesting I should make a build log to display with the model or stand by it and explain to people. But for me that kills the thrill of going to a show. I don’t want to be a hostage to my model, where I’m planted next to it. Shows, just like this forum, are a huge source of inspiration for me. I can see other people’s work, techniques and materials used. And I hope my models serve same purpose for other people. Especially up and coming modelers, because I would like to see the hobby thrive.
  6. Thank you. It was more like an afterthought, but I ran with it and it makes me happy.
  7. What was the issue with the other wheels? I think they looked a lot better. Maybe I can help.
  8. Gotcha... For some reason I keep thinking that engine comes with the sedan reissue. Maybe because the roadster got reissued right before that. I didn't notice the front tires. Everyone hates on the fronts that originally come with these wheels, but I like them. Especially if you want a full fendered Deuce with a nose in the weeds.
  9. Working hard on trying to make this paint-ready. The hoods through the tedious process of putty, sand, prime, repeat. They're almost ready or color... The thing is that I keep on adding some ideas. One of my favorite things about the '32 Ford is the frame and how it was used as an exposed design element. Most of them had this reveal on the bottom f the outside of the rails that followed the curves of the fenders. It is an iconic immediately recognizable Deuce frame feature. On the Phantom Vicky frame that reveal is missing and the obviously ftermarket frame is not as tall on its sides as an original. I believe I read somewhere that roadsters did not have the line on the side of the rails like the rest of the models. Either way, I wanted to ad it, but with a modern twist. For the purpose I used wide stock styrene, which is about 1/16 thick and glued it on the bottom of the rails. Then I cut and sanded it on the inside to be even with the frame, but left it wider on the outside edge. This way I killed two birds with one stone. First I just made the frame 2 inches lower to the ground (roughly what 1/16th is) and I also now have a very custom reveal in the frame, which instead of going up where normally the fenders would do it, now continues towards the front of the car, gradually disappearing behind the front axle. While I was at it, I thought why not waste more time on a detail nobody will ever notice and carve out the engine mounts. LOL While I had my carving tools out, I decided to carve out the window detail before it got all lost under the numerous primer coats. I ain't gonna lie, it was not fun. I mocked everything, lined it up, taped it and set it on the frame. You can see how now the frame reveal follows the bead on the bottom of the body and hoods. This creates the illusion of a longer body and gives this little touch where people can't quite notice it, but it just looks that little bit different in a good way. This also shows me how much the grille shell needs to be lowered at the front in order to close the gap between the hoods and the frame. Which will create illusion of even more raked stance. Well everything got sprayed with primer, hopefully for the last time and is drying. Meanwhile I figured out the engine set up. The kit's valve covers were sanded smooth for a clean look, glued to the engine and everything primered one last time as it will be all one color. In my engine parts box I found these throttle bodies made for a Jaguar hot rodded straight six I believe. I had few of them, for who knows what reason, so I cut a couple to shorten them to four throttle bodies. This will be my injection setup.
  10. That's looking really nice Dennis. So it is pretty much box stock? Other than the resin body and the wires of course... It's a testament what a great kit this is.
  11. Oh, boy. This brings back memories!
  12. Now that's something you don't see every day... I like how it's shaping. Where did the body come from? And why model manufacturers are shying away from '50s Buicks? I would much rather see a '50s Buick model than the 9875865th variation of a F100 pickup truck being released.
  13. I made a neat little roll pan on the back of the body, cut the rear end of the frame and made a new cross member to tidy everything up. It still needs some tweaking to make it all nice and smooth, but I'm working on it. This type work is mostly unnoticed and unappreciated at shows, but I like to know that the model is up to Mozzi standard. The engine intake had the Weber 48IDA carbs molded into it, but I wasn't happy with them. So I sanded them down and printed individual ones. I am not sure that's the way I want to go either, but I'll figure it out.
  14. 3D printing definitely has a learning curve to it, but once you get a feel for it it's a lot of fun. I would just get some cool wheel designs to start with and then play with resizing them. That should get you going. Warning! It can get addictive.
  15. It looks like something you may find under a Foose Impala, but definitely not what is seen under '32 frames. It is nice and I've been eyeballing it, but still haven't pulled the trigger on it.
  16. The rear end was definitely not originally designed for a "32 frame. But it wouldn't be fun if it was. LOL. I used the Buttera rear end in a '32 build (which I have not finished like many others from years back) and it worked out great. I wish there was a proper modern IRS available for a '32 chassis. With all the re-releases, all the aftermarket resin and with the literally limitless possibilities of the 3D revolution, it is absolutely astonishing that there is no proper IRS for the '32 frames. About the intake, the answer is both. It is an Inglese system using Webbers. It is seriously tiny stuff tho and plumbing it will be a challenge. Right now however, I am just trying to get everything ready for some color.
  17. Thank you Dennis. This rod will be all about attitude, so the stance is a big deal.
  18. I use Tamiya all the time. I buy a bag of 200 waxed cups - shot sizes and then just spray TS paint right in it, bend the edge and pour it straight in my airbrush cup. You just have to let them gas out a little. right in your airbrush cup (you can see bubbles at first). I don't thin them or anything. Works perfect every time. With the exception of "Neon Colors" those are very "powdery" and will cause trouble in your airbrush unless you thin them down.
  19. That is part of your problem. That color will cause this issue over any primer unless you pray light mist coats and build it up. It dries pretty fast, so do a couple of mist coats from bigger distance, where it looks kind of flat, not wet at all. Give it 15 min and do the same. Another 15 minutes and do the same, but this time see some gloss and as soon it starts looking wet, put it aside. Give it a day and clear it. You should be fine. Altho I would seriously think about investing in an airbrush. The NEO for Iwata in Hobby Lobby is a great value. Christmas is coming and it is a perfect thing to put on your Christmas list. Unless you've been naughty ?
  20. Are you spraying it straight from the can or decanting it and airbrushing it?
  21. Thank you. I’m trying to get the momentum going, before this joins about ten other hotrods that are collecting dust in boxes half built. LOL.
  22. Thank you. I think it gives it a little bit of an attitude and bespoke feel. But my name is definitely not Dennis. LOL. It’s Michael per my drivers license, but most people call me Mozzi.
  23. Looks like a fantastic start. About the color... Take your daughter to one of those cosmetic stores, or just the section at your local Target and let her look at the nailpolish colors. they usually come with crazy cool names too. let her choose the orange color she loves and buy two bottles. They are half ounce each, which means that after cutting it 1:1 with lacquer thinner you should have about 2 oz ready to spray. She may even have enough to do her nails in matching orange once you're done with the model. Tamiya primer should have no problem handling it. Most importantly, your girl will feel involved and happier than ever.
  24. Great looking Deuce Dennis. And that top definitely looks better on this body than on the Revell roadster. I still can't believe that nobody has made yet proper chopped roadster top for the Revell original Roadster or the Rat Roaster with the lower windshield.
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