mrm

Nicely done. There is a guy who is a regular at the local cars and coffee. His wife sometimes comes driving a GT like this - yellow with two black stripes, except that the stripes are the body work's carbon showing through. It even has all carbon wheels. Her interior is all black tho.

Such a beautiful vehicle. I wish that model companies would make a model of this iconic car instead of making new tooling for cars that have been issued time and time again. This build is off to righteous start. Can’t wait to see it develop into a finished model.

Hobby Lobby started carrying these japanese markers that are part of the Gundham series. They have super fine (0.25mm) ones that may be your ticket if you are referring to detailing the black lines inside the light clusters.

I have done a lot of carbon in scale. I mean tons. I understand that in real life carbon comes in many finishes. What I was saying is that in scale, once clear coated carbon looks far more realistic. I have used many different clears, including lacquers and 2k. 2k works best. For some reason Tamiya’s clear dissolves the colors in Scalemotorsport carbon. Not the decal itself. Some Tamiya paints, just paticular colors, interact different. I am just trying to be helpful, that’s all.

Nice job on the carbon. If you clear it, it would pop and become way more real like. Just don’t use Tamiya clear, as for some reason it eats these decals.

Outstanding build. Everything on this truck is just perfect.

Such a gorgeous car. Very nice job on the model too. You don’t see these built very often.

This would be a great project, however the judges may give you hard time over the body. Based on your previous builds, I would expect that the frame rails and the front axle are going to be about the only parts left from the ‘29 kit. The way I read the rules is that it has to be more or less a 29 roadster, no matter how modified. Either way, I’m following this one as I have been playing around with the same idea in my head, except on a ‘32 base.

Now this is different and very cool!

I know it was said more than once already, but I’ll repeat it again. This chop is just perfect! I personally liked it better with the smooth hood.

Well, the exhaust is solved. After many different scenarios and quite few mock ups, I settled on something that I believe I'm happy with. This should be just loud enough without being obnoxious for a family hot rod. Very clean and simple in tune with today's trends. I started by cutting the mufflers from the Foose pickup and grilling holes where the exhaust goes in and out. For the pipes I'm using solder. Next I sanded the mufflers smooth and wrapped them in BMF. I added just short pieces of solder for exhaust tips, which I curved and the end and then drilled. I cut up a pin to make exhaust attachments and got some photo etched nuts to detail them. After they were installed you can't see anything, but oh, well...I know it's there. The front portion of the exhaust was also made from solder and attached to the headers, which really tested my patience. making everything perfectly curved to match all desired angles w a major PITA. It all worked out good at the end tho. I forgot to clean up a sink mark right by one of the air bag mounts, which I just noticed. The solution? Make an access panel and play with photo etched screws, which are the size of a pinhead. Getting these suckers off that rubber backing is an exercise in self control. You just breath wrong and they are gone somewhere never to be found again. I thought a couple of them flew away, but miraculously I found them, which left me with extras. So a second panel was made. Why not? I think it looks cool. That brings the photo etched pieces count to somewhere about 75 so far. Other than the shocks and some touch ups, the underside of this bad boy is finally done. Stay tuned and thanks for looking.

I wish I could say I laid down some clear coat and show you pictures, but I just did not manage to do that, because my son had a hockey game that I had forgotten about. What I did manage to do on this model tho, was to add the chrome trim around the fire wall with some BMF and to add some subtle pinstriping. When possible, I like to put decals and BMF under my clear. I also barely attached the beauty rings on the wheels, which I will clear coat over and that is pretty much it. Stay tuned and thanks for looking.

Love the interior. Just don’t get a scale DUI ?

There are two crossmembers included in the kit. They look the same, but they are not. One is for the highboy option-body on top of 32 frame, and the other is for the channeled version with the ‘29 frame. If you have put wrong crossmember in the frame, it would bring the floor down and create the clearance issue you are having.

Very nice. Now it looks perfect. The shocks are like real.

At the end of this month there is a show in Chattanooga and I have every intention to attend it. Therefore I am determined to finish at least three of my group of a dozen or so models that I've been working on and off on for the past decade almost. This project is definitely one of them. So today I prepped the headers, which were sprayed metallic black, before receiving a coat of Molotow chrome. The engine belt and pulleys are ready to go on too. Meanwhile I am facing a dilemma. should I use the stock exhaust and mufflers or go all out with the solder and machined aluminum. Honestly, when mocked up, these mufflers somehow don't look right under there, which makes me ask myself if "less is more" is the right approach here. What do you guys think? The driveshaft is ready to go in too.

Ray, Carl, Alan, Chris, Christopher and Greg, thank you guys for the kind words. Here is the little WIP I had when I was working on it. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/124169-a-modern-traditional-deuce-roadster/

Thank you Dennis. It means a lot coming from you. I have few more Deuces that I need to photograph and some I need to just finish up the details on that I am pretty sure you will get a kick of.

Thank you guys. Ohio flames they are indeed. Yes. The car Alloway built was the inspiration for this model.

This model started as a paint experiment and then took on a life all its own.... Story of my life...LOL Body: The body is from the Rat Roaster with the cowl from the Phantom Vicky and the windshield from the same kit. Grille shell came from a 5 window kit and then the bottom portion was filled in and a radiator was scratch built with the help of some MCG photo etch. Then a MCG photo etched grille was inserted. The fenders are from the 5 window kit. The rears have been bobbed to come closer to the rolled pan on the body and the running boards have been filled in and smoothed out. Tail lights are MCG photo etch and so is the license plate frame. Interior: The doors and seat came from the original Roadster kit. The floor is from the Rat Roaster. The steering wheel is MCG and so is the gauge panel, the dash vents and pedals. The seatbelts are scrapbooking paper from my wife's stash with Detail Master photo etch buckles. Ken's fuzzy ur covers carpet duty and the piston shifter I believe came from Revell's '32 5 window. Chassis: The frame started as a Phantom Vicky part, but pretty much only the center crossmember tubing and part of the rails remain. The front clip came from the Rat Roaster, while the rear was scratch built. the front suspension is standard fair Revell '32 while the rear has quickchange center section, which I made a mold for and poured from white metal. An aluminum axle goes through it and it is attached to the frame via scratch built triangulated four bars and scratch built coil over shocks on the inside of the axle. The inspiration for this set up came from Boyd Coddington's Alumatub. Drivetrain: The engine and transmission came from the Rat Roaster, supercharger and all. It received a MCG resin/photo etched Edelbrock valve covers and air filter. Everything was painted in Molotow chrome to match the kit's chrome parts. Engine is fully plumbed and wired, altho there s barely any space to see it. The Corvette headers go into scratch built exhaust from solder and aluminum tubing. The paint is Kreatex waterbased paint from Hobby Lobby with the flames done with Tamiya colors. Everything was masked with bare metal foil and then the flames were freehand cut out. I am not completely satisfied with the paintjob, but I still learned a lot from it. I hope you like it and thanks for looking.

Coil overs are an upgrade to regular shocks when replacing a shock/spring combo. For example on my Corvette I threw the stock buggy transverse spring and the shocks in the trash and replaced them with nice adjustable coil overs. Same way on the rear of the hot rods you can use coil overs instead of the traditional leaf spring and shocks. However steps need to be taken to triangulate the rear and lock it in place when removing the spring. At the front it is impossible to do that with the setup you are trying to use, due to geometry, space and functionality. Besides it does not look aesthetically appeasing. If you want to use coil overs at the front with I beam axle you need a different suspension set up. Something like this: Now, about the brake pedal/master cylinder, they are actually included on all the Revell '32s and on the AMT Phantom Vicky. However, on many of today's street rods the master cylinders are not visible on the firewall, not underneath the car, as they are hidden behind the dash. And the model A kit you are working with is a strictly hot rod version, so that may be the reason.

Temperatures here just got to almost 50 degrees and I ceased the opportunity to spray the Turquoise on. It is not terrible but I still don't like working with it. It still sprays heavy even through the airbrush and it does have that bass boat effect, because the metallic flakes are definitely not to scale. Pigmentation is very weak. It may be just this color, I don't know. What I noticed is that on my hand holding the parts I was painting, the overspray was almost entirely silver with barely any color to it. Anyway, all the parts I needed are painted now and curing. This is the other thing; with Tamiya color, automotive paint or nailpolish, heck- even the old Boyd colors, dry time is almost instantaneous and they could be clear coated (2k clear) within the hour. This thing dries like an enamel almost and I will have to wait 'till tomorrow at least, which slows me down tremendously.

I did not bother with Revell. This morning I threw the warped frame in the '29 roadster box from which I sourced the good frame and drove to Hobby Lobby. I showed them the frame and the twisted chrome three and they exchanged the kit for a new one. We opened it and inspected it, so no issue with the replacement. Easy-peasy, 10 minute ordeal a block from home.

Looking like quite the ambitious project so far. Great work. I just can't help it and need to say that I have never seen such a front suspension setup. The coil over look great, but totally wrong on the front. Someone recently posted a model of the Li'l John Buttera's '29 Roadster, which has coil overs with an axle. Maybe you should take a look at that set up if you are absolutely set on using coils at the front.

So, back to the rear end of the kit. This is how I build the rear ends of the model As or any of the Revell '32 series kits. I first scrape off the chrome where I am not going to need it. Then I glue the ladder bars to the rear axle, using the frame as a jig. When the glue has set, I paint all the chrome I want to keep with Liquid Mask. Then I spray primer, paint and clear. When Everything is cured, I just peel the liquid mask. After primer, everything was sprayed silver as a base coat. I normally don't do this, but this model is serving on guinea pig duty. I hear a lot of people on here using silver for "sealer" and as a base coat for metallics. This never made much sense to me as if you are combining the proper paints and use a good quality product, grey primer should be sufficient. However I am going to use Testors Extreme Lacquer Turquoise, which I was told on here works really great when shot through an airbrush. So I used Tamiya TS30 Silver Leaf as a base/sealer which will be followed by the Testors Turquoise metallic. It was already late and 32 degrees in my garage (where I paint), so the Turquoise would have to wait 'till tomorrow when the temperatures can get in the 50s. Meanwile, the brakes were assembled and after a light coat of black metallic were "chromed" with Molotow pen. Well, there isn't much else I can do until the color and clear are on. So stay tuned and thanks for looking.