mrm

Most definitely. I still can not believe that with all the different ‘32 Ford variations and reissues, Revell never put a quickchange rear in any of those kits.

Very cool. Love the choice of a motor

looks like a great kit and you are definitely doing a great job with it. I personally would have gone with darker red, as Ferrari used different red than what todays rosso corsa is. about the story with the real Ferrari, I don’t mean to rain on anyone’s parade, but that is not the first Ferrari car. The car in the picture caused a lot of stir when it resurfaced, but by now it is known that the oldest part on it is its Motto body (which is unique) originally made for serial number 002C, which in turn was the third Ferrari made.

I have no idea how have I missed this both on here and on shapeways. I need to recover from some quite reckless "budget overreach" LOL and then I am definitely stocking up on some goodies. Looks like truly top notch stuff.

I've gotten few of them. Most of them had issues with the frame. One major, to the point it was absolutely worthless and impossible to work with. One took major adjustments and still not 100% straight. And a couple that were twisted, but I managed to fix them rather easy. In contrast no '29 roadster frames have given me grief. The other thing that needs to be addressed is that the coupe kit is NOT designed to work with the nailhead engine. There is nothing included to connect the '32 grille/radiator to it and its transmission greatly interferes with the firewall. The kit is also molded from a lot worse quality plastic. Whatever Revell changed in the reissue was not for the better in any way.

I have contemplated doing a model of this iconic Deuce too. I have no problem painting the flames, but what has deterred me from attempting such a build are pinstripes which are extensive and I have not figured out a way of doing them. I’m following this build and I would love to see you pull off the pinstriping. I can’t believe Revell have not attempted issuing their roadster as a McMullen replica or something close to it that would at least give us the decal sheet. With all the amazing aftermarket decal sheets out there it’s also amazing no-one has made decals for this car. Both Slixx and Fred Caddy are fully capable of producing a set. And I’m sure it would be a good seller. Perhaps we can petition the case to them.

Definitely good looking wheel tire combo. What did you do to fit them under the rear fenders?

That’s one good looking motor you got there!

Jimmy Flintstone offers pretty much identical resin body as you have created for your pick up. I’ve looked at it many times and always found it to be really cool, but always scratched my head what was the purpose of it being so short. Somehow the idea of using it as a “crew cab” pick up never crossed my mind. Seeing your build, I may actually get one and do something similar, as I find the idea truly great.

Thank you both guys. Can it be found in any currently available kit? By the way, anyone willing to lend me a complete supercharger like that (preferably with the belts that come with it), I'll make a mold and return two extra pieces to you. I am not into making bodies and big stuff like that, but I've cast plenty of small parts for personal use.

This is such a great idea with the rat roaster interior. I’m definitely using it down the road.

Really cool project. Nice job on the hood. If you don't mind me asking, where did the supercharger on your engine come from?

I picked up the same kit from Wallmart. I still can not decide if I want it chopped or not.

Very nice. I love the color.

This is off to a great start. It is such an iconic car too.

So, Friday night - or should I say Saturday very early in the morning - the model was done. I rushed through the night to finish it, so it could be done for the Chattanooga show on Saturday. More than anything out of stubbornness, because I just had wound myself that it "HAS TO" be done for the show. Big mistake! As this was probably THE WORST model contest I have participated in. Guess where I'm not going next year......? Anyway.......I did menage to snap few pictures of the process before I wrapped it up. And in the process I learned few things about the kit. Main thing is that it is NOT the same as the first edition. And it ain't better either! As it is my usual practice, I painted the surrounds of the windows with a sharpie. What I like to use better than the sharpie brand are these commercial markers, which are made for construction and mark over pretty much any surface - wet, dusty, oily - whatever. Any Home Depot or Lowes carries them and they are about the same price as the Sharpies. They come in few basic colors too. Next stop was the interior. I used the yellow gauge faces as I like them better. The small ones are pain to fit right in the bezels as the whole panel shines and you can barely see where the decal is. I would recommend one of those halping hands with magnifying glass thingies. I just bought one from HL for ten bucks, but haven't used it yet. The steering wheel was sprayed with grey primer, followed by fine white primer and topped with pearl white. All Tamiya color sprayed straight from the can. I masked the spokes with liquid mask and here you can see some of it being peeled after the paint dried. The door panels and the seat received a good dusting of the white pearl also from the can. This made the white pearl and the turquoise lighter and it toned down the silver flakes in it, while giving it more uniform with the white finish. Basically, the effect is perfect representation of the vinyl seats you can still find in some old diners. And it is exactly what I was looking for. Did I know that?! No. I just had the idea and took the chance and ran with it. I just got lucky and now I know for the next time. LOL Also it is important to note that the inner side of the rear wheel openings have to be painted body color just like their outside. The reason why is that after assembly, you can see a solid portion of their lower end above the frame rails from underneath the model. So make your life easier and paint the entire fenderwell from both sides from the get go. Next everything was put together, minus the seat and the steering wheel. People don't glue the top part of the roof and leave the seam because they fear that they can not assemble the interior after that. Not true. You can fill the seam, have the body as a one piece, install the interior panels and the dash and even the floor and then easily put the seat in through the opening in the roof. On this kit I did a lot of things in a very unusual for me order just try something new and to see if any of it makes things different, easier or harder. Like for example after the shifter received same treatment as the steering wheel, it got glued together with the pedals to the floor and and floor got glued with the rest of the interior panels to the body. I use five minute epoxy for these parts which gives you plenty of time to put everything together and to adjust for perfect fitment. It's worth mentioning that you do see the inner fire wall from the roof opening once the model is finished, so don't forget to paint it the proper color. I did forget, so mine is grey now. LOL After the body was pretty much completely closed, I lowered the seat into it and glued it with 5 min epoxy. Then I glued the exhaust to the floor. I tried something new to me and listened to Dennis Lacy and painted the mufflers. In another thread he recommended a Tamiya color which supposedly matches the color glasspack mufflers come in. I decided to take his word for it and found out that for reasons unknown to me, I actually had a can of TS-58. I have to say I am very happy with the results. Thank you Dennis! The rest of the exhaust underneath was painted with Tamiya Silver Leaf. This would be a tricky operation later on. If you have built your chassis completely with the engine already glued in it, you should have attached the steering box and column to the frame before the engine. This is what I did. So if you chose to do like me and attach the floor to the body and then the exhaust to the floor and then put the whole assenbly on the frame, you would have to thread the steering column through the hole in the fire wall and then move the body as far forward and patiently wiggle the ends of the exhaust over that rearmost cross member on the frame. It is totally doable and a lot easier than it seams. it just looks hard and complicated. This can assure the body sits perfectly all the way down on the frame rails as it should. However, if I had to do it all over again, I would much rather not glue the exhaust manifolds to the engine and add the steering box and column AFTER the engine and body have been glued to the frame. What I figured out is that this kit was not very well thought out. Actually, for lack of better words, it was half a$$ed in the design department. I am saying this comparatively speaking to the first edition. This kit was designed to work with the small block Chevy engine, not the Nailhead. First the pulley of the nailhead hits the front cross member, so it really should be moved slightly back. However, even if you don't move it back the bell housing on its transmission interferes greatly with the firewall. Like an eight of an inch or more. And I'm not talking scale inches. I happened to have few of the original kits and one built sitting next to me, so the fire walls are actually not the same. On the new reissued kit the fire wall is thinner and sits further back. Which means that Revell were aware of the issue and attempted to fix it, but not very well. If you want proper fitment you definitely need to trim the fire wall around the transmission. Which brings us back to gluing the floor to the body first as it would help with the trimming. The other issue you are going to run into is if you want to use the Deuce grille. This kit is not designed to work with it. Or rather it is not designed to use it with the engine supplied in the kit. This is why it is missing from the instructions or anywhere on the box art, which is a shame really. The radiator (which at least is supplied) is designed to hook up to hoses for the SBC engine in the original kit. There are three sets of radiator hoses supplied win the kit. Neither one of them is made to connect the '32 radiator to the nailhead. You are absolutely on your own there. Don't get me wrong, I love the kit. I just built two of them and now that I am past my builder's block, I already have plans for four more '30 coupes and few roadsters. It is just a shame that after all the anticipation, Revell pulled such a half a$$ job on putting the nailhead in this kit. Thanks for looking and expect the Ice Cream Coupe in the "Under Glass" section.

By the way, I know there are quite few people on here from Tennessee and I was wondering if anyone would be attending the Chattanooga show/contest tomorrow (well it kinda starts tonight)? I will be there for sure and if I muster the motivation to finish it, the ice cream A will be too.

Except that's not what I said. Or meant. There are many many hot rods with shock mounts that are chrome. When they are an individual part bolted to the frame. It's a great detail on properly built hot rods. But that is not what the frame in the series of '32s by Revell represents. And to a degree in this series of '29/'30 kits. especially when it comes to the rear suspension. 80% of the models using the '32 four bar front suspension in the Revell kits that I see built have the space between the bars chrome, which should be part of the frame rail and therefore the same color. My comment was that I have never seen a shock tower that is part of the frame (welded on) that has been chromed while the rest of the frame painted. It is such a small part that is so easy to touch up and not doing it is just like not dealing with sink marks.

OK, so somehow I still have not finished this model, due to nothing else but laziness. I still have a little bit of progress to show tho. First, the engine was blinked out with all the chrome parts from the kit, plus the help of some Molotow markers. The exhaust ends and the intake stacks were all drilled. Funny how on the picture you can see the white plastic on the trumpets, where they were drilled, but in person you can't tell the difference with the chrome. This is one of the reasons why I love taking pictures of my WIP. it the best and most detailed critic you will ever get. The wheels and tires were assembled, with the tires receiving white walls, while the wheels got hub caps in which I picked the "Ford" letters with blue, while the lines around them were detailed with black. In person the difference between the two colors is way more subtle and you almost can't tell the difference. Words can not begin to describe my frustration with the tire decals..... I am still fuming. After some mock ups and stupid amount of time online browsing model A hot rods, I decided that the firewall should be white. I'm actually pissed I didn't go this way from the get go. It still needs to be touched up here and there, but it definitely looks better than before. Last, but not least, I painted the interior. Lower half of the door panels and the seat inserts received the body color and the rest was sprayed with Tamiya white primer. Straight from the can on the my porch on my kitchen's step at 1 am while it was 23 degrees outside. Turned out just fine IMHO. Thanks for looking and stay tuned.

Thank you. The parts of the frame and suspension being color detailed is one of my biggest pep peeves. I lost count how many absolutely stunning models I have seen, where this little detail was omitted. Never understood it either, as they are super easy spots to touch up with a brush even if you don't go the way I do. I have never seen someone chrome plate the shock towers on their frame in real life. But let's not get me going or I will go on a rant that would never end. LOL

I like the K+R big and little steelies and the RMcM wires.

This is an amazing job and I think it definitely needs to be done justice in resin copies. Perhaps Drag City can get a mold made pretty quick and you can be back at it in no time. I know I would buy multiples for sure.

Thank you all guys. Yeah, I think this is what is happening with most people. They look at it without paying attention that there is not much left of the original kit, other than the general shape of it.

Very cool so far! I’m following. I always wanted to build a rod with a W motor. I have four model A coupes planned, I just need to find the time. Plenty of motivation on here.

Very very nice. I'm waiting on two of these bodies to arrive too. Will be following.