1320wayne

First, here is another link to multiple pics. of both restored cars. The Hawaiian is on page 6. http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c214/marty1961/A%20Day%20At%20The%20Races/Nostalgia%20Fest%2009/?start=160 Second, I hope that Revell gets the roof correct between both of these cars. The Chi Town car has a side mounted roof escape hatch due to the side positioned drivers area.

Thanks guys for the positive comments. This one is taking quite a while to get somewhere but every new step is keeping me more and more motivated to get it finished. I was contacted by Chip King (the car owner that this build is emulating) a few days ago and he stated that he either wanted to buy this build when it's finished or he wants me to build another one for him. I always have a tough time selling projects that I build so I'll probably have to build another one.

The wheelie bars and rear suspension are pretty much done. I was able to add all of the bracing on the bars, springs for the rearend and bolt head details throughout. The last part to add will be the netting on the wheelie bars. Once I get the new order of carbon fiber in and applied, I can then reattach this assembly and get the rear tires and wheels in place.

A simple solution to this problem is simply post the picture of the real car that your decals represent rather than what you have posted. That way no potential customer is dissatisfied with what they think they are getting.

I'm with Shane on the Tamiya clear red and blue. I have tried the Sharpie trick and even though the red works great sometimes the blue takes on a purpleish effect.

Matt, your going about it the right way. In order to get the fuselage seam halves sealed and filled for proper painting you have to complete the cockpit and install it first. One trick I learned from some great airplane builders is to fill the cockpit with moist tissue to use as a masking when you are finally ready for paint. After you finish your paint you simply pull it out and clean up any excess tissue residue. Mine will be ready for completion this coming weekend.

Very nice job.

Very nice build. Stance looks good. More like a 10.5 car than pro mod but looks great nonetheless.

Excellent build, Aaron. The detail work is awesome.

More progress on the rear suspension area. The differential is in along with the scratchbuilt driveshaft made from alum. tubing. The wheelie bars are also in the works. I made them from alum. tubing and styrene tubing along with styrene rod. There are still lots of bracing to add to the bars but for the most part the hardest parts of the creating of the bars is complete.

Here is progress on the rear suspension. I have scratchbuilt all of the four links, aluminum braces for the rearend brackets and sourced some parts box rotors. I still have to add some small rear brakes, center hubs, bolthead details and the rear springs.

Excellent work. Your choice of colors and graphics are perfect. The interior looks great. I too would love to see some van kits reissued along with Revell's parts kit for detailing vans. There was a lot of cool stuff in that. Anybody remember the movie "The Van"?

Great job! The smooth black paint work really sets this one off.

Very creative John. Excellent workmanship and detail.

Well, the rear sheet metal is done and assembled. I ran out of carbon fiber so I have to wait for a new shipment to arrive before I can have the back half finished. I finished the racing harness. It was made with Model Car Garage seat belt hardware and blue painters tape. And I started on the rear suspension. The front half four link brackets are scratchbuilt from styrene and aluminum tubing for bushings.

This one is done. I had it sitting off to the side as I had started it just after finishing the Hawaiian Charger and I checked it out this morning and determined that there were only a few small little details left to add to call it finished. It is built pretty much straight from the box. This was built from the original issue using the decals from the reissued version that came in the tin. The tire decals came from Scale Modeling by Chris.

Here are a couple of shots of the interior.

Here are a few more exterior shots.

Here are some pics. of Richie's car from 06. And a couple of V. Gaines Stratus from the same time period.

The Hot Wheels decals are available through Slixx and they are designed to go right onto this body.

Very nice build. Splendid finish and the detailing looks great.

I bought a Monogram War Eagle kit years ago that had that same problem only over a much larger area. I held onto the body as a conversation piece. It's nice to see kits like these reissued even though Revell never had this body correct, in the single kit or the double kit. You can make the build a bit more accurate, if you wish, by cutting the greenhouse from the body and sliding it back more towards the rear wheelwells. It takes a bit of work to cut and fill but not so much more than chopping a body, which plenty of us have done before. Or you can go the resin route, which I believe that Comp Resins has the accurate body for this build. It's also nice to see a revised decal sheet. I will definately buy a couple of them.

The specifics from years past have been a three day show. Registration ends on Saturday afternoon. You will have to pay entry into the 1:1 car show, plus parking at the fairgrounds facility. In years past the entry into the model contest has been free. If I remember my conversation with David and Pat Parnell from the Jax show earlier in the year they are planning on charging to enter the model contest this year to help offset some costs that the NSRA group is no longer covering. Don't quote me on this as I could have been mistaken. It is a bit of a costly endeavor for a model show but think of what you get for what you are paying for. I also believe that they give out a free pass for contest participants to get back into the car show on Sunday without having to pay a second time.

Jeff, here is a link to the organizations web site. The links section there will take you to some other interesting sites as well. http://www.aagasser.com/

Here is a bit more progress. I was able to finish more chassis panels as well as getting the seat mounted and started on the racing harness. I also had to rebuild the wheel tubs as the first two developed problems. I determined that I would have to mount the wheel tubs before adding the carbon fiber decals. Because the tubs are so thin and flexible I could not get the carbon fiber decals to work without forming air bubbles. I ended up ruining the first set trying to fight this issue. Now I have two new ones built and in place.