1320wayne

I've been fortunate enough to have seen this combo in person a few times over the last year and each time the paint work just draws you in. Awesome work Gary.

I saw this post and had to run straight to my calendar to see if we were still in the month of April. I too would love to see more drag toolings, whether they be modern or vintage, but, without trying to sound too pesimistic, I can't see where it would be financially in Revell's interests to do two seperate toolings for the same body style. The Hustler was in fact a side shifted car, with a side mounted roof hatch, but the Hawaiian car was a traditional style chassis with the engine and driver in the center. They would have to do two seperate chassis or at least a seperate piece to convert one to the other.

Here's a bit more. The exhaust is done and attached as well as the driveshaft and the bottom center section of the chassis.

Starsky and Hutch (the movie since we're talking movies) and both XXX movies.

Excellent work, Jeryd. The profile looks great and the engine detail is top notch.

Wow! Awesome build. There's so much to like about this. The stance, paint scheme, detail and overall cleanliness of the build.

Here is more. The engine and engine bay is nearly complete. The engine is now permanently mounted along with the radiator and fuel cell. All plumbing has been added.

The original build for this one was done back in the early 90's and the only useable chassis back then were any of the older Monogram pro stock kits. That is what was used and the wheelbase was shortened to meet the body. Although, the body should have been lengthened just a bit up front, just behind the front wheelwell.

If you want to replicate any one of Alderman's rides you will have to get creative. Here are some pics. of his black and white Daytona from the early 90's that I did using mainly decals from different Slixx sheets. I used decals from a "Mr 5 and 50 Super Stock" Slixx sheet for the rainbow stripes, a "Gene Snow top fuel" sheet from Slixx for the Mopar markings and then any assorted sheets that would supply any other sponsor markings. The paint scheme is simply a matter of masking and painting the two colors. If you want to update it to a later version with the red, yellow and blue splash graphics then Slixx has you covered with that as well with a generic graphics sheet. Or you can go with their modern Mopar camo scheme decals and only use the Mopar markings and combine that with their generic graphics sheet that has the barb wire to complete an early 2000's Stratus. Hope this helps with your decision making.

I don't know if what I do would be considered weathering but I do attempt at adding a lot of drybrushing techniques to certain areas to try and bring out the three demensional details a bit more. Sometimes people forget that race motors are not like engines in show cars. They should show some dirt, some use and overall wear and tear.

And the engine progress, which is where I am right now. The fuel lines were the latest details to be added. They are from Protech. The fittings were resin cast pieces that I picked up at a show. The carbs. are resin items also from Protech. And the radiator is kitbashed from numerous kits with added screen mesh. This is where I am at to date with more updates and details to follow.

And more.......

I thought that I had originally posted in progress pics. of this project previously but I couldn't find any record of it so here goes. This is a WIP of the 2004/2005 Jeg's Dodge Stratus pro stock. The resin body came from Badhabit Motorsports when they were in existence. The body was a slush cast and needed plenty of work to get it ready for use. Badhabit also created the decals which were actually very easy to work with. I started this project well over two years ago and got to a certain point when I tired of it and it went into the box. I took it back out about a month ago with new motivation and have been working on it ever since. So, I will give you a rundown of where I am at with it currently. The chassis was reworked in some areas to bring it to current standards. The front wheels are resin pieces that I created and the rear wheels are simply repopped So Real rear wheels done in resin. As you will see the front clip has been removed along with the doors which will be either hinged or simply glued in the open position later on. The engine is a Ross Gibson B-1 block converted over to a Hemi. The valve covers are not accurate, modern pro stock Hemi valve covers but I like the way they came out so I'm sticking with them even though Ross Gibson came out with an excellent modern Hemi pro stock engine. From this point on everything is simply create, paint, detail and add to the build. I will let the pictures speak to what I have done so far. Thanks for looking.

Excellent build. Very nice engine details and a super nice candy apple red paint job.

And just so you know Shane. Rt. 192 is the same road that the entrance to Disney is on, just in the opposite direction. So it shouldn't be too hard to find.

When I was in my early teens I had an IMC Volkswagon that could be built as a drag version or stock. I was attempting the drag version and never could get anything to go together properly. That kit never did get finished. Now, many years later, I would love to find that one again and see if my current talents would suffice. It's hard to say which build has been the most involved. I have done way too many over the top insanely detailed Scratchbuilt projects over the past few years it's hard to keep track as to which one was the most involved. I think I need to build more out of the box projects to keep my sanity.

Here is a link to my recently completed album of pics. from this past weekends model contest in Simpsonville, SC put on by SCMA, (South Carolina Modelers Association). Over 500 models on the table. A great show! http://public.fotki.com/1320wayne/model_sh...upstate-model-/

Len, Alumilite resin is very finicky. I use it quite often only due to the fact that I can drive down to the local Hobbytown and pick it up versus having to drive almost two hours for other options or mail order. The color consistency of your poured castings is representative of how you mix the parts A and B together. More B than A and you will get a more transparent appearrance in your casting. Only if you go too far askew with your mixing process will you not get a good cured casting. Alumilite is definately not the best resin out there but it's still useable in my opinion. There is also a white version available that has a totally different consistency than the tan version. The white resin mixes in almost a watery substance and when poured takes much longer to start setting up. You have almost 5 to 6 minutes before the resin starts to cure which gives you plenty of time to either work the resin into small crevices easier or pour more parts out of one mixing. The heating process for your molds that the instructions talks about is perfectly safe. You should only heat your mold (depending on size) for about 20 to 30 seconds. Heating the mold helps the resin spread easier thoughout the part. One other trick is to sprinkle baby powder onto your mold before pouring as it helps to eliminate air bubbles. It's like adding cinnamon to a piece of toast. After you sprinkle the powder on turn the mold over and shake off the excess. I hope this helps. I'm no expert by any means but I have been playing with this for about four years now with some success.

Both have their pros and cons. You can do a lot with trophy designs but of course the more creative you get the more expensive the trophy becomes. Plaques are nice and low maintenance and can also be dressed up with nice, colorful designs if you choose. All you have to do is check out the plaques from a Goodguys show to know this. It all depends on your preference for spending money on your show. Plaques will most likely be less costly than trophies. Theres also the combination of the two. Plaques for your categories and trophies for any "Best Of" awards you may be doing. The bottom line though is that just being at a model show and showing off your builds and seeing other builds and meeting new and interesting people should be award enough.

Happy birthday Dave. Wish we were still out there to help you celebrate it. You're only as old as you feel and with your good spirit and heart you must be only turning 20 or so. Jill and I hope you have a great day and many more to come.

Oh yeah! I think I can work this one into my schedule.

Great job Mick. The extra detail looks quite accurate.

Here's a couple of pics. of the engine bay. Like I said, nothing fancy.

Dave, it's a full build but as of these pictures I still hadn't added the valve covers and the air cleaner to the engine. The paint was still drying. It's just a simple out of the box with no added detail but when the engine is complete I will take a few shots and add here.

That is a very sharp build. And your photography is awesome as well.