Maindrian Pace

Ford states that it is 24 pounds heavier. Nevertheless, you're in Canada, where heat from the sun is largely a non-issue; so if you want the glass roof, then by all means get it. -MJS

If you feel that you need to show that you care and that you are responsive, improve the ramp a bit. Take it out and get it truck bed lined to seal it and give it a non slip surface. -MJS

Steel roof coupe for me. Glass is nice, but heavy and hot. Coupes give the best performance, rigidity, and safety in case of a mishap. -MJS

Around here, the lawyers only want vapid, empty-headed smilers who never watch the news, have no idea how the legal system works, or that we had one, and have no opinions about much of anything. Show a little intelligence or an opinion, and you're outta there like a mortar round. Jury of your peers? Only if you've got a skull full of mush, because your jury will too. -MJS

The up-top looks right from every angle, I'd say you nailed it. -MJS

The late '70s; when anything styled like that, shiny jumpsuits, wraparound sun glasses, and big hair was certainly going to be the future. -MJS

The mufflers mirrors look great, Tom. Go with 'em! -MJS

My '78 440 NYB had those. -MJS

As the owner of an EFI '93 Cobra powered '65 Ranchero, I gotta say, that is just perfect. -MJS

Looks great, and this may be the first time I have ever seen this kit built. As it is a historic Mustang, I wonder why that is. -MJS

Supreme sliceage! I'd like to see how the LX hatch is coming along. -MJS

Thanks for the info, Ben. A removable plug in the inner mold sounds like it would let the inner fall away when removed. The next step is to add a section of styrene strip to the rear edge of the trunk lid. This is .060" half round, but it can be regular .020x.080 or similar. After some sanding and shaping: And the major mods are done. Now I'm looking at a few putty/final shaping sessions, and then we'll start experimenting with glass. -MJS

The 1:1 has a raised lip at the back of the trunk lid that is gradually rounded up from the edges, while the model does not have this detail. It also doesn't have quite enough slope to the trunk lid and 1/4 panels, so I started by block sanding the sides of the trunk and 1/4s from almost the middle to the edges, reducing the 1/4s above the taillights and straightening the slope to the back window. So the edges were reduced, but the middle of the trunk wasn't. It's reasonably close on the model, the total amount of reduction at the taillights was .75mm. You could get away without doing this, as it really doesn't detract from the car very much. In this pic, it's reduced to the correct height/slope, and you can start to see the rounded lip forming in the middle. Here, you can see the new slope angle to the 1/4s. -MJS

Kris, I've handled the silicone resin molds before, I just didn't know how flexible they were, and if the inner mold could bend enough to come free from the body with the wrap of the bumpers. But if so, that's very good. Like Chevys? The solution is simple, get one of these and fill it up with LSX power. Getting to be a popular swap in 1:1. -MJS

In other words, up to his old tricks. Will it have working lights and sound? -MJS

I'm seeing it with a fuel injected 327 and a set of polished Americans. -MJS

Late last night, the rear wheel wells shrank down to stock size. It started off with the removal of the rocker moldings, a detail that no aero Fox has ever had. Why are those wells so large? Most likely for an upcoming drag version. Big slicks fit perfectly. AMT kits in the '60s and '70s had stock wheel wells with radius guides in the back of the 1/4s, add this to the list of things that it would have been nice to see instead. There are several ways to do this. I like to add layers of styrene strip that overhang the inside and outside of the fenders, and carve/sand down to size. This body takes two layers on the front, and three on the back of the wells. I used files, a new exacto blade, and a sheet of 400 grit paper wrapped around a Sharpie to contour the new plastic. I used the photos and a wheel/tire as a guide to get the shape roughed in. Still a little bit of contouring to do here and there, and then it's off to the deck lid. -MJS

Missing link also offers the engine bay separately. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Resin-25th-1962-70-Ford-Mercury-Farilane-Torino-Mustang-Engine-bay-shock-towers-/290929525571?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item43bcc04343 -MJS

I like the new dog dish hub caps, which have never been kitted before. The "potent 8 cylinder engine" was a BBC, but a resin straight 6 should take care of that. -MJS

Great build. Looking at that chassis, did those cars have torque tubes? -MJS

I haven't decided yet, I need to study the 1:1 a little more closely to see how far in the slope goes to the center. The duck tail will just be a blended styrene strip in the middle, tapering to the ends. Yes, but barely. Single curve would work, although vacuformed would be best. -MJS

John, They shouldn't exist. You can almost hear the Revell employees pointing out the roof problem to upper management, and being ignored because they were already obliged to accept a very expensive body die. (and they hoped that no one would notice) Harry, No arguments here. I don't want to give the impression that this is all OK with me, I'd have much preferred that it was correct out of the box. This is just to show what can be done to the kit that they decided to give us. It will be interesting to see how the magazine(s) handle this particular kit in their new kit review sections; will they kid-glove Revell so as not to ruffle feathers? or call it as they see it and politely pull no punches? -MJS

Thanks Michel. I can do the glass masters easily enough, but I don't have a vacu-form machine. But it's possible that one of the Moonlight Modelers does. Thanks Dan. You building an AZ DPS car? -MJS

Today, I thought that I would correct the rear bumper. It sticks out about 2mm too far. I started by cutting it off of the body at the seam: Remove about this much: Add styrene strip to the top of the bumper cover to bring the taillight ridge rearward, because you just moved this detail forward so it wouldn't be under the lenses. A very simple and quick mod, but it makes a difference. The next modification in line is making the rear wheel wells smaller in length. -MJS

I like it!