Harry P.

Almost all digital cameras have a "high quality" setting. That's what you would need to shoot at... whatever the highest quality setting your camera has. Some contributors send me a "test shot" first if they're not sure... I'll take a look and let them know if it's good enough for print.

They don't put their tutorial in my thread. The submissions I get aren't given to me through this site... the contributors send me their material directly via email (photos and write-up). I get their material sent to me directly, the website has nothing to do with it... other than me asking for submissions here. I can't use any material that's been posted here, it has to be shot specifically for print. I may see a good tutorial here, and if I want to use it for the magazine it has to be re-shot in higher quality for print reproduction.

The problem is the quality of the photos. Photos posted on the web are at low resolution (72 dpi), but for print I need high-resolution images (300 dpi and much bigger file size). So even if I see a good tutorial here online, it would have to be re-shot anyway, so that the photos would be good enough for print reproduction. I mention that in my request... so if anyone wants to submit something, they'll know up front that I need high-res photos, not photos from the web site.

Actually that's not true. As you know, I recently posted a "Model Cars Magazine Wants YOU!" notice, asking for people who want to submit a feature to the magazine to please do so. Gregg and I are working to feature as many "unknown" modelers as we can, and we want to feature a wide variety of different things. Since I made my request here on the forum, I've had a LOT of responses, and the fact is, I've gotten some REALLY good stuff... so good, in fact, that everything I've gotten so far has either already run in the magazine or will appear in a future issue. For example, in the October issue we had a feature on creating weathered and rusty looking paint finishes, in the November issue we had a step-by-step tutorial on how to open and hinge doors, and in the December issue we had a feature (and a cover shot!) on a late 70s Volare/Road Runner. ALL of those features appeared in the magazine because the people who supplied them answered the request I posted right here on this site! All of them are "regular guys", not "gloryhogs" or "important people"... they're all members here just like the rest of us. And there's a LOT more coming... I have quite a few more features from other members here already lined up and waiting their turn in upcoming magazines! And the submissions keep coming in... thanks guys! We want MCM to be the model car magazine that features the work of everyone... big names in the hobby AND "regular joes" from our own online family.

They asked to remain anonymous...

Take good pictures along the way and send me the stuff when you're done. I see cover material...

Boy, there sure are a lot of tree huggers in Oregon... (no offense, Dave!)

That type of tractor could be considered the "Monster Truck" of its day. Hopefully those of you who didn't particularly like the subject matter were at least able to get a few ideas on weathering and detailing from the article. BTW... hey, Biggs, I'd like to see a lowrider on the cover! I don't remember ever seeing one. How about submitting an article?

Sanding the glue off the kit window using progressively finer grades of sandpaper, then polishing cloths, then wax, etc., is WAY too labor intensive. Make yourself a new windshield out of clear acetate sheet. It'll take about 5 minutes. As long the "glass" doesn't have a major compound curve, this will work.

Make your own! http://www.detailmaster.com/Merchant2/merc...tegory_Code=SHA

Well, I fooled about 40% of you, which ain't too bad! Teacher to student: Can you use the word "Israel" in a sentence? Student: My buddy tried to sell me a watch, he said it was a Rolex. I told him it's fake... he said, no, Israel! Same with the car! Next ROM coming MONDAY!

Geez, V... who's going to buy the cow if they can get the milk for free...

And it's a good thing you didn't. The "resurrection" of JoHan has been reported for almost 20 years now, and we're all still waiting. I think we all should just accept the fact that JoHan (at least as we knew it) is dead and gone. If there was going to be a revival of JoHan, it would have happened by now. Face it, JoHan ain't coming back...

"Goofy little stories"??? You mean those aren't true???!!!!

See? I told you there would be a lot of opinions... The reality is, you can get good results with either enamels, acrylics or lacquers, once you get the hang of it. It's really a matter of trying them all and seeing which you like best.

Yes, good point, and I forgot to mention that. To be safe, always use primer under lacquers as a barrier between the plastic and the top coat of color. Enamels and acrylics won't "attack" styrene, so they're safe to spray onto bare plastic. However, some people prefer to use primer all the time, no matter what type of paint they're using. It's a personal preference.

Just don't get confused and use doilies!

Oh, and as far as what types of paint you should use: that's one of those classic "question without an answer"questions. Because there are so many different brands and types of paint out there, if you ask 100 people what to use you'll likely get 100 different answers. The simplified answer: Although there are others, all you really have to worry about as a beginner are the 3 basic types of paint: enamels, acrylics, and lacquers. There are also hybrids, and various other exotic formulas out there, but these 3 will serve your purpose. As far as which to use, each has its own pros and cons. Enamel: what we used to know as "model paint" back in the day. Pros: Pretty cheap, lots of colors, available in any hobby shop. Cons: slow to dry, prone to pick up dust (because it dries slow), prone to orange peel, generally kind of fussy to apply. Acrylics: Pros: also available in a wide assortment of colors and brands, easy to work with (thins with water), easy clean-up with water, fast drying. Cons: If the color you want is available, none that I can think of. Lacquers: same ease of application and fast drying time as acrylics, needs to be thinned with lacquer thinner. Goes on nice and smooth and thin, doesn't tend to run and sag like enamels. Cons: also none that I can think of. Enamels and lacquers both have a strong smell and the fumes are toxic. Spray either outside or in a well-vented spray booth. Acrylics are usually labeled "non toxic", but still you don't want to be breathing in a ton of it either. My recommendation: Lacquers or acrylics. To me, the downsides of enamels make them not worth the hassle, especially when there are so many acrylics and lacquers to choose from. Why mess with them when there are 2 other alternatives that are easier to work with? That's my 2 cents... I'm sure we'll hear other opinions on this, too.

Ditto to Helipilot's answer. An airbrush is basically just a device to atomize a liquid. It doesn't know or care what liquid its spraying. As long as the liquid you're spraying is thinned with the appropriate thinner and to the right consistency, you can spray ANY liquid... enamel, lacquer or acrylic paint, milk, Kool-Aid, varnish, iced tea, grape juice... whatever!

I have a small "silent" tankless compressor, when it's on it's on all the time, so no sudden noises. It's not actually silent, but it's pretty quiet.

Biggs! Buddy!

ok, I can't help myself... one more. Thunder Road like you've never heard it before...

Hey, wait a minute! That's not the halftime show I saw!!!

It's not a "music video"... it's just a live performance of one of my favorite Springsteen songs (and I have about 200 "favorite" Springsteen songs)... (Sorry, Mr. Biggs... but your vote don't count! )

Looks cool so far! You're doing pretty much the same thing I've been planning, but haven't gotten a round tuit yet. Believe me, as soon as I get a round tuit I'll start on mine...