Harry P.

All I can say is it must be real nice to have that kind of money to spend on a car...

Or even worse, I'll have a hard time laying out any new features for upcoming magazine issues...

The shifter I see. The skulls on the seats... not so much... I think I see ONE... if I squint...

Maybe I'm taking the wrong kind of acid... cuz I still don't see it. Hey V... I'll just take your word for it that there are skulls and bones there...

This question will undoubtedly get a gazillion different answers, as everyone has their own favorite paint type and/or brand. I'll make it very simple for you: There is no need to mess with 2-part paints or any of that esoteric stuff. Modeling is supposed to be fun, not a chore! Here is a simple rule to live by: Enamels: BAD! Take too long to dry, both sprays and brush paint. No reason to even mess with them. They are yesterday's technology. For brush painting small parts and detail painting: Acrylics. Water-based, non-toxic, available in tons of colors. Simple brush clean-up with nothing fancier than plain old H2O. For spraying: Either lacquers or acrylics. Both go on nice and smooth, both dry fast, they are not prone to runs and sags like enamels are, both can be either clear coated or polished out beautifully. I personally prefer DupliColor automotive touch-up sprays, available at any auto parts store. One simple rule to remember: Don't use enamels! Believe me, your life will be much simpler and happier if you stick to acrylics and lacquers.

Maybe if you take out the trash or shovel the driveway your parents will let you out of the house as a reward!

What's the problem... are you under house arrest or something???

That looks like it was a great magazine. Too bad it was so short-lived.

If the pattern on the seats is supposed to be skulls and bones, I don't see it... Is it like a Rorschach test? ...'cuz I'm not getting it!

If you have ever thought about seeing your work in the magazine some day, NOW IS YOUR CHANCE!!!! We are looking for some "how-to" type articles to feature in upcoming issues. If you have a technique, trick, or tip that would be of interest to others, you might have what it takes to be featured in the magazine. Whether we can use your work depends on the quality of the photos you can provide, and how interesting and/or useful your "how-to" is. If you're interested, send me a PM and I'll spell out the details for you. You just might see your work in an upcoming issue of MCM!

That's pretty cool... but man, it'll take up a lot of display space!

Can he get you a good deal on car insurance???

Last I heard, he was married and has 3 kids now... (and I'm still waiting for his tip, trick or idea)...

I'm glad you liked the Sketchpad!!!

http://www.internethobbies.com/tamiya-spra...uer-paints.html http://search2.ehobbies.com/search.aspx?Ac...d2-57c753cb201e http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...CH=TAMIYA+PAINT

It was -17 this morning, with the wind chill -35. Supposed to go all the way up to 5 degrees later today. I think I'll take a nice walk later today and enjoy the lovely weather...

ok, you guys suddenly got smart again... Yep, it's a model! Next ROM coming MONDAY!

The '66-'67 Belvedere/GTX is one of my all-time favorite cars. Nice model!

Same question from me. How did you make the spider web?

I think actually it was his brother Heath that played Joker...

Well, since the Bears are out of the picture, I really couldn't care less! Although it would be cool to see the Steelers vs. the Eagles. Pennsylvanians would go nuts!!!

I recently got into a wooden ship thing. I bought one just for a change of pace from plastic cars. I loved it! There's something very different in building a wooden model than a plastic one... you're still putting pieces together, but there's a whole different experience working with wood. I built a fishing boat, then an 1800's paddlewheel riverboat, then a model of the Santa Maria. Then I built a model of the 1903 Wright Flyer. It's been a while since I built a car!

I use Bondo! "Bondo" is a name brand for 2-part catalyzed polyester filler, like "Kleenex" is a brand name for tissues or "Xerox" is a brand name for copying machines. There are several brands of catalyzed putty available, they all work the same way: by mixing the correct proportion of resin and hardener. I use "Bondo" brand putty because A: it's cheap, and B: you can find it in any auto parts store... even Walmart.

Will that adhesive lose its "stick" after a while? What do you figure the "shelf life" of a large piece with the adhesive already applied would be?

I've heard just the opposite on this technique than what you suggest... that is, to use the cheap, dollar store foil instead of the name brand stuff, because the cheap stuff is thinner and follows contours and tiny molded details like emblems and scripts better.