Harry P.

I think you're right, there should be a box to click for "New Subscriber" and one for "Renewal."

Don't current subscribers get a renewal notice in the mail?

So you apparently didn't see the very first sentence of my post? Maybe I didn't use large enough type for you. Don't post hints or answers here. PM me with year, make and model.

I don't know... members here constantly amaze me. The other day there were a few people who were wondering why truck models should be posted in the truck section. And one of them said he didn't even know we have a truck section! Seems like an FAQ section would just be ignored by too many members.

The problem is getting people to actually use an FAQ section instead of just posting the question anyway.

Yeah, I agree on that "Jada look" that some models have. In that case they do look like cheap toy diecasts.

You're talking abut the cheap toystore diecasts. High end stuff like Danbury and AutoArt and others have very precise in-scale panel lines and in-scale paint. The new Danbury stuff is built to a better standard than many modelers could ever achieve... so don't lump all diecasts into the "junk" category. It's just not true. There are many diecasts most modelers would be thrilled to have their models look as good as.

Click on the link that says "Subscribe" at the top left of the page.

Way back when, Mark Gustavson wanted to create a new, national, "important" contest that would attract all the big names in the model car world. Well, attendance at that inaugural contest was, uh, less than expected, and apparently Mr. Gustavson wrote a somewhat angry letter to a model car magazine complaining about all of the big name people who didn't attend his contest... he referred to them as the "national luminaries who shall remain nameless," or to juggle the words around, "nameless national luminaries." So as a response to Mr. Gustavson's angry letter, a few of these "nameless national luminaries" decided to get together and sponsor the "anti-contest," where there would be no competition and no prizes awarded... just like-minded people getting together and showing off their latest work without the pressure or competitive aspect of a judged "contest." The idea took off, and soon there were a bunch of "NNL" style shows being held. Unfortunately, most if not all of them completely missed the whole point of an "NNL"... and they all award prizes to the "winners," thereby completely disregarding what an "NNL" type event is supposed to be. Tim Boyd wrote an excellent op-ed piece in Model Cars a while back explaining this very thing (Tim was one of those original "nameless national luminaries" who cooked up the NNL concept in the first place... so he should know what an NNL is supposed to be)! GSL= Greater Salt Lake (model car championship).

Just like this.

That seat pattern is by an artist named M.C. Escher. Google him. His work is amazing!

It means just what it says. Topic is locked, and nobody can post in it anymore. (Except moderators).

?

Topic locked per Rick's request.

Of course not! Never!

It could always be towing a shiny car...

And is that also green snow all over that tree in the background? Are you sure you don't want to tell us the truth about this model?

You dug it out and just finished it? And the grass in the photos is emerald green? In February? And you live in the land of "igloos and eskimos?" Something doesn't add up here...

ok, points made and noted. This thread ceased being useful quite a while ago.

I assume you guys told him this directly? And not just post it here on the forum?

Is there a decal on the sheet with the black stuff on it that you don't plan to use? If so, cut that decal out and soak it as if you were going to apply it to the model, and see if the black gunk comes off. If so, problem solved. If not, you could try a little acetone or lacquer thinner on a very small area of the sheet somewhere and see if that takes it off without ruining the decal itself. It's hard to give an exact remedy. Different decal sheets react differently. It depends who printed them, what the clear carrier film is comprised of, etc.

You need to get it through your skull, like I've already told you, that personal attacks and bashing other members is not allowed. And nobody gets unlimited warnings. At some point I get tired of playing games, and you find yourself locked out.

Nope. I wasn't even considering "Factory Stock," which is a completely different thing from "Box Stock" altogether. Let me recap my initial post. I think that a lot of people new to model cars, whether kids or adults, probably start out building their models more or less box stock, if for no other reason than they're unfamiliar with building a model kit... so they're naturally going to follow the directions and build the kit the way it's "supposed" to be built. But once a person has a few kits under their belt, I would think that building box stock would get boring soon, and the urge to do things your own way (wheel swap, engine detailing, whatever) comes into play for most people. So that's why I think most experienced modelers who build for their own satisfaction would tend to not build a kit box stock unless they are specifically doing so in order to enter the model in the "Box Stock" category of a contest. Of course that's not 100% true in every case... Sure, there are guys who do build box stock, even if they don't intend to enter it in the box stock class of a contest. But my guess would be that most modelers don't build box stock in general; only for a specific reason. That's why I see box stock as more of a specialized "contest thing" than the way most people build in general. Now "Factory Stock" is a whole different thing, and has nothing necessarily to do with "Box Stock." After all, I can build a 100% box stock chopped '49 Mercury that has nothing to do with being a "factory stock" model. Same with a Monkeemobile, or any show rod, for example. All can be built "box stock" while none of them would be "factory stock."

My favorite detail is how you matched the wheel color to the interior. Very cool.

Almost all parts of a model get painted anyway, so what's the difference what color plastic it's molded in?