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Great the way you brought the very different colors together.

Now that's just not right.

I had followed your build on this car. It turned out better than I could of imagined. The attention to detail you put into it really shows.

Outstanding build in everyway. That color and finish really stand out.

These both turned out great. I enjoyed the early custom style on the red car. "Canadian" grill bar and flipped front bumper and Merc. tail lights. Both are realistic looking.

Thank you for sharing. I have never gotten to visit this road, but have seen it featured on TV programs. They always point out the 35 MPH speed laws. One thing I noticed about the driver is he kept the car in the middle of his lane even in the corners, good driving. All of the cars he overtook were unable to stay in their lane even at slower (35 MPH ?) speeds. To their credit they did use the turnout to let the Cobra by. I never thought the Cobra pressured any of the other drivers, he let them know he was there, but kept back a safe distance. What a great 19 min.

I think they are all winners in their own right. The wheels on the "winner" remind me of the style of the early 70's like the Ansen Sprints.

Just go at your own speed and what you feel comfortable with. As you gain experience you will also gain speed. Just build and enjoy.

Great looking build, and I love your puppies. FYI on the spring tensioners, They were usually made of a black rubber band about a 1/4" in diameter with small metal hooks that you could slide around to hook onto the side links on the tire chains. This would help to keep the chains from moving around when you were driving or spinning your tires. It also kept them from dropping off on the inside of the tire and getting wrapped around you axles. I used to live in the San Bernardino National Forest at about 5000 ft. in Socal. My fingers are just now getting their feeling back. You might look at your wife's sewing kit for some black thread to use.

Ron, Thanks for the memories. Like you, this was my first kit at about the same time. I like how you used the kit's louvers. I never was able to get them to look right on anything.

I have used white "poster board" to build a paper sides,back, and floor for the model to sit on. Set this up on a folding table and used a couple of floor lamps on either side to shine down on the model. Its crude but didn't cost much and seemed to work well.

You might try Googleing '56 Chevrolet to see what may turn up. I'm not sure but I think there is a big difference between the '57 210 model interior and the '56 Del Ray interior, the seat patterns for sure. .

There is many options. I like to use Model Master Liquid Cement for general assembly. For something that needs a little more bonding I'll use Plastruct Plastic Weld or Zap-A-Gap medium CA+. Windows , head and tail lamps I'll use Aleene's Jewwl-It or Future which does not seem to work as well on windows.

Try Model Master Metalizer Lacquer Aluminum Plate. After it dries you can polish it with a Q-tip then spray their Metalizer Sealer. I have used this on wheels as well as other under hood polished aluminum parts.

Love this model and owned a 1:1 years ago. Nice build, but the 272 looks like it might be a 292 or even a 312. The 2bbl. has turned into a duel quad set up. Now that's a real sleeper.

About the priming on the spruce, I'll use an example of the model I'm working on now. The '58 Nomad along with the other tri-five Chevys have many small hard to handle parts. What I will do is trim away the larger parts leaving the small one on the spruce. I then give the remaining parts a light dusting of primer. This helps me to see the parting lines like on the drive shaft, shocks, starter, and generator. With the spruce holding the part I can gently sand the lines using a Flex-I-File holder and different grades of sanding stripes. Then I can remove and re-prime as needed or mount in someway so that I can apply the color coat. This may seem like a lot of extra work, but I'm not digging around under my desk looking for the part that just flew past my head.

Lee, Like you my wife and I enjoy garlic. We will usually bake a couple of cloves in a little olive oil. After cooking it is easy to squeeze out into a small dish with olive oil in it. This can then be spread on a fresh sliced sour dough bread. As for an antidote I recommend good red wine. As Scott pointed out you just need to be carful about to much antidote.

I worked for Good Year in the retail tire stores 1969 to 1973. Good Year had the Blue Streaks as a high performance tire. The "body" or "carcass" of the tire had a different cord angle used in the construction. While not a radial design it was very close and they used a very "soft" rubber compound for the tread. They looked like a radial when mounted in that the side walls would look like the tire pressure was low. I believe that other tire manufactures may have had blue stripe tires, but for show as much as anything else. As I recall the gold lines first appeared on the '65 Corvettes and were used on some of the '65 Chevelle Z-16s. In the mid '60s all different side wall colors were tried until white letter tires just seem to be what everyone wanted.

That's the primer, also in white if your going for a light finish color.

Great detail on the suspension. Really like the bumpers also. Will enjoy watching this.

I agree with everyone else about the drip moldings, looks so much better than the 1:1 . What do you have planned for the skirts ? they seem to dominate the rear fenders.

They really need to work on their team work. The navigator reminds me of my ex wife.

For myself I have used Tamiya primers (white or gray) depending on the final color. While expensive I have used Mr. Surfacer 1200 for an extra fine finish. On some hard to hang onto parts I'll do some sanding and parting line removal and prime before removing from the spruce. I also have hands not designed for 1/25 scale work.

Sinister looking.

Great build and I love the color.