Bugatti Fan

Hi Tom, I can remember seeing the actual car on display in a local car showroom where I used to live back in the 60's. You could well be right about the scale. It was enormous. The current owner of the real car is named Chris Evans, an ex BBC radio presenter. He may well have a website or altrnatively be on Twitter or facebook, neither of which I use. Guess that makes me a Neandertal as far as social media goes!

C1 Models make a metallising powder that you rub on over a base coat. The base coat colour will determine how the buffed part will look when the powder is rubbed on and polished. A bit of trial and error to get the finish you want I guess! Incidentally C1 reckon that decals can be applied directly to the buffed finish.

CCBB is such an unusual kit it would be nice to see it resurrected. Any idea roughly what scale it is? Maybe I should have bought one way back when and stashed it away!

Have used Zero paints French Blue on my Bugatti Type 59 model. It goes on very well. and as others have indicated a clear lacquer top coat is needed.

Tom, will you be restoring your kit?

Best look to Alclad and AK for the shades you want.

It is coming on well Mark!

Zero paints are distributed by Hiroboy in the UK. There may have a chart on their website. Perhaps Zero paints have a website of their own?

There are many cheap far eastern origin airbrushes out there that look fantastic in the box with all the extras. For very infrequent airbrushing maybe one of these would suffice. Far better though to look for a better quality airbrush that will fulfil your basic requirements. As a UK modeller I cannot comment on the Paasche as they have never been seriously marketed in the UK but I gather that as one of the oldest established airbrush manufacturers their product is a good one. Back in the 60's and 70's the Badger ranges were marketed in the UK. Having used their products for many years now I have found their air brushes to be of very good quality at a reasonable price. Many modellers praise the Iwata and the Harder and Steenbeck ranges that are both high quality airbrushes, but at a price! I have stuck with my Badgers for as long as I can remember without any problems. A Badger siphon feed single action is perfectly good for overall colour spraying, whereas a double action comes into its own for custom painting. I must admit to being lazy as far as priming is concerned, and use automotive acrylic primers from aerosol cans. White, grey, red oxide and flat black are always to hand on my shelf.

Enamel take ages to dry out thoroughly, a!though they feel dry to the touch. Coating with an acrylic product effectively creates a deal as it dries out a lot quicker. Enamel trying to dry out underneath may be the cause of the cracking and lifting. Generally the rule of thumb is enamel and lacquers at ok if used on top of acrylics but not the other way around. Mind you acrylics over enamel could be utilised for modelling distressed vehicles with the paint blistering off.

Tom, it you have this kit, as Aurora is long gone, maybe it would be worth getting resin cast patterns made from it. There must be many modellers who would like to build a model of this car! Incidentally, I believe that the original movie car is now owned by an ex BBC disc jockey named Chris Evans.

I could never work out why the E Type was named an XKE in the States? Perhaps someone could enlighten me?

Nice theatre production car. In miniature I think Aurora may have kitted this car many years ago but do not know what scale if they did. Corgi made a die cast model of this car that is quite collectable possibly in 1/43rd scale.

The E Type looks good. The earlier fouled were a bit sleeker before they wanted to put 4 seats in. Revell now have the opportunity to make a toaster as well one hopes. I have the STMS white metal roadster kit in 1/24 scale but might now wait and see if Revell do one to go with their coupe.

An all new E Type? Great! It was high time that Revell retooled this iconic car. That old tired out from the sixties was well below par for many a year. Will it be 1/24 as opposed to the old kit in 1/25? Hopefully 1/24 by Reve!l Germany in line with their other classics I that scale.

Shame that it was not the Land Rover Defender from the first movie.

Scott, I really like what you have done to that old Porsche model. Not only the restyling but also your choice of colour scheme. Funnily enough I have an old Revell Porsche Targa Snapkit that one of my kids made (badly) about 25 years ago in my stash. Got me thinking! I also have the remnants of an Airfix Lotus Cortina that I attempted to customise way back in the 60's. Now that my skills have improved over the years I will be attempting to restore it back to how it should look.

My son shoots videos that he has to do lots of post production work on before they can be shown. It is quite time consuming putting together video footage after the shooting has been done. Photographers using Photoshop can attest to this when manipulating their still images after shooting. Video, however is a different ball game altogether! Cranky has probably simply gone off in another direction from forums like this to Youtube. So maybe we should not read to much into it.

Impressive kit. Built one many years ago. But.......there was another 1/8 scale E Type of Japanese origin. One of these passed through my workshop, and it was a different kit altogether from the Monogram one. Cannot remember if it was Bandai, Otaki, Nichimo or some other makers kit?

Hi Mark, I shipped the model to the museum about a year ago. I think it took some time before it was collected. Mark G. tells me that it arrived in good condition. Maybe next time you visit it will be on display. If you have a copy of MCM Jan 2015 you will be able to see my build article in it. It is the Airfix Wallace and Grommit Curse of the Were Rabbit Van (Austin A35) with leftover custom bits from Monogram 1/12 scale 57Chevy.

Your Porsche has certainly been a Labour of love Ken judging by the number of flaws that you had to correct on a lot of this size, and a credit to your modelling ability. I would have not expected a lot like this to be so troublesome considering the cost. Ken, are you a member of IPMS UK? If so can you message me either on this forum's message service or on the IPMS one of you are a member. Cheers!

Once 3D printing materials are proved to be stable, the great thing is that being made from a CAD program instead of a mould with a limited shelf life, the repeatability is endless, from one off parts to batches. The UV setting process that Pete mentioned in one of his posts appears to be most stable. My dentist repaired a chipped tooth two years ago using a UV setting compound that is still good today.

Resin is a mixed compound, there are many types where their chemical make-up differs, so I would guess it depends on what manufacturers resin mix was used by the maker. Also, the mix has to be dead right, otherwise something that looks as though it is set could still be de gaussing for a considerable time after manufacture. Maybe there is a pattern as to what individual cottage industry manufacturer's products are more prone to this problem due to the actual resin they are using. Unfortunately at the time of casting they would be completely unaware of any inherent latent problems with the material they were using manifesting itself at a later date. Makes you wonder about the stability of materials that are being used for 3D printing as well in the long term?

The thought of trying to read over 9500 previous replies to this thread?

Having mentioned some 1/16 scale kits of old timers by either Aurora of Lindberg, I see someone has put up a picture of a Stanley Steamer. This I think was also kitted in that particular range..