zenrat

Are you sure four Hemis is enough? Given the way Tommy arranged the showboat with the LH side driving the front and the RH side driving the rear you could have six Hemis. Or eight... Great work. Looking forward to seeing this through to completion.

Terrible movie. The book is better. Just. I'm constantly surprised, give the number made, that there are not more Landcruisers kitted. Personally i'd like full detail 60 and 100 series wagons. Tamiya kitted an 80 series but I guess it didn't sell well enough to justify doing the 100. I'm currently building one and it's a masterpiece of plastic engineering with working suspension and steering.

What Roger said. I added some thin styrene rod, a touch of filler and Robert is your Mothers brother. Looking at Bill's pic I have rubber where there is none IRL but the glass fit which is the main thing.

Very good. I passed this the other day. Had to stop and snap some pics. It really needs to be built...

Arrrrrrrgggggghhhhhhh MIKE! Did you have to post that picture? I've now got the bl##dy song firmly on repeat play on my cerebral juke box and it won't go away...

Good find. How big is your stash that you forget what you've got?

I like the sound of that. Got any pics?

Harry, Harry, Harry, you are so wrong. If the builder is using their imagination then potentially they can build anything they like from a NASCAR kit. For example, they can be used to supply a detailed chassis to a Japanese kit engineered for batteries and electric motor. This one is a Cannonball Run racer. Or they can be used to create a sleeper that doesn't just go in straight lines. This one inspired by a Hot Rod dare to be different featured Hudson. So Richard, if they are cheap enough then snap one up and get imagineering...

What if the US drove on the correct side of the road? More Australian, British & Japanese cars on your roads and more US cars on ours.

The Parts Box XB Falcon kit is a 4 door sedan which is fine if you want to build one of the yellow MFP pursuit cars but would take major surgery to make the "last of the V8s" as that was based on a 2 door hardtop. Best bet is to buy the Aoshima kit and a resin MM2 to MM1 conversion kit (you got pm about that). There is a resin kit of the interceptor in MM1 guise made by Cavalier but the going rate for them is currently AU$75 to AU$100 and to be honest it's not a very nice kit.

As it happens i'm kitbashing with the chassis from a lowrider issue '70 (separate chassis makes it great for this purpose but buy the F&F issue as you get more parts) and had a look at what it comes with thisarvo. In the Lowrider release you get the choice of building the suspension up or down. To this end you get a set of 4 short springs, a set of 4 long springs, 2 lowered front upper control arms, 2 lifted front upper control arms, 1 lowered combined front lower control arms & crossmember and 1lifted combined front lower control arms & crossmember. The rear suspension uses the same parts (apart from springs) whether you build it lowered or lifted. All the springs and all the front suspension parts are chromed. The rear suspension parts are not chromed. I haven't done a direct side by side comparison but the lowered option on the lowrider looks to be lower than stock (which makes sense).

I've built 2 of their Honda Citys. Accurate shape. Nicely engraved detail on the body & interior but basic chassis engineered for a motor and battery. However it's well engineered and retains the correct depth unlike the Doyusha Nostalgia Heroes range.

How about using a piece of glass instead of the cardboard. You can then do away with the initial layers of tape and stick the final tape layer onto the glass. Also, try using frisket film instead of masking tape. If you get low tack film it'll peel off easier. http://www.grafixarts.com/product/Frisket_Film

I'd want to do a bit of customising. Lose the gut for example. Maybe my head on Vin Diesel's body...

I built one about 30 years ago. It's long gone now but I remember no problems.

I had a Model Master release of this. It had some not very nice cast metal wheels with badly moulded tyres and cost far too much.

As opposed to the informal kind where everyone sits around with guns in the back of utes drinking Bundy and waiting for it to get dark. You know, the ones which are more fun AND kill more foxes... ...and pigs and goats and roos and feral dogs and...

Thanks folks.

Be wary. Don't know about the worth of this kit but there is someone with a collection of Mazda kits that they keep putting on Aussie E-Bay at stupid prices. They don't sell.

AMT 1969 Mercury Cougar Eliminator built without the spoilers, scoop and stripes as I think it looks better that way. Wheels are MRC Cragar SS. I tried the 'BMF the scripts before painting' trick but they are moulded a bit light and it didn't work as well as I'd hoped.

Statistically in most cases of child abuse the abuser is a family member or friend. So a random bloke buying them model kits is probably not a risk. But try telling that to the father while he's punching your lights out behind the paint racks... It's a sad indictment of todays society. In this situation I like to think i'd go home and donate the equivalent value of the kit I might have bought to a children's charity and then try to remember to give some kits to a xmas toy drive.

Glad you solved your problem Jim. I have 3 or 4 parts boxes of tyres and wheels and it still seems to be the hardest thing to sort out when building something not out of the box. Not just what looks the part but which rims fit which tyres and then will the whole shebang fit the suspension and into the hole.

Lindberg slicks in their Dyno Don '61 Chevy are narrower than AMT slicks and IIRC are not pie crust so might fit the bill.

I've forgotten about stuff, gone on holiday and left it in there for 4 weeks without any problems except the body becoming more brittle. And by more brittle I mean it just cracks a bit easier, not that it will shatter if you touch it. I'd say just leave the body submerged and every few days pull it out and see if the glue has loosened. Wear gloves. As for which brake fluid - I buy the cheapest 4 litre container I can find. It doesn't seem to matter if it is Dot 3 or 4 or whatever. Try the place your local budget mechanics get theirs.

www.thepartsbox.com will sell you this. Scale is apparently 1/20 but they don't say on the website. And Meng produce this Yes it's 1/35 but (and I haven't done the maths) I reckon a 1/35 D9 is going to be pretty close in size to a 1/25 D6 or D7. Most of the bodywork on Cat dozers is flat panels so it would be fairly easy to replace all the armour and with a bit of rejigging of the interior you'd have a pretty good load for a 1/25 low loader.