zenrat

My wife thinks I have too many kits as it is. She's never going to believe "I just opened an e-mail and it came out of the printer..."

Try brake fluid. When soaking parts in it to remove paint glue joints made with styrene cement often let go. However it can take a long time (especially if the joints are as tight as you imply) and long immersion in brake fluid will leach plasticisers out of styrene and cause it to become more brittle (not a desirable result in old plastic that will probably have suffered from some embrittlement already). Good luck.

I think Greg's point is that it's exactly the same car. The box art photo has been photoshopped from the photo on the Schmitt web page.

What Tom said. Plus 4. Payment via the interweb. Remember sending cheques off in envelopes?

Given the thickness of most model bodies shallow dents can be made without heat by carefull gouging with a knife followed by sanding to smooth everything out. It's easy to go over the top when using heat and for every big dent like the one Tom has made above (which looks good - the secret is in what you use to push the dent in) there will probably be a plethora of smaller ones.

Interesting that in the Tamiya advice Casey posted the solution to every single problem involves the phrase "repaint". Not once do they suggest polishing.

Now imagine what 4 sound like. In the old days (before overflying the crowd at airshows was banned) the RAF Battle of Britain Memorial flight used to fly their Lancaster over the spectators at zero feet. They'd approach from behind while your attention was distracted by the Spitfires and Hurricanes flying up and down the runway.

G'day Cannonballers. Javelin Engineering have finally allowed WIP photos of my 2013 entry. As you can see they've got the rolling chassis together, mated the 4.2 litre V8 to the 'cruiser transmission and are now working on hooking up the turbo. Suspension has been lowered slightly which with stiffer rate springs, stiffer anti roll bars and sports shockers will help with the handling. Not much they can do though about the woefull steering lock on these things so I hope I don't have to chuck any tight 'U'eys. The wheels I had been waiting for turned out to be a no go which is a shame. They are 19" rims with low profile tyres but look tiny and stupid against the body. 20s look better but are far too "blingy" for the look i'm going for so they were also out. And the stock kit tyres are huge mudders which would have been fine if it was a race as the crow flies but I think it might be quicker on bitumen. So i'm going with the ones you can see on there. They are from a Fujimi Mitsubishi Delica van and are dual purpose tyres which while they would not corner as hard as a set of sticky low profile rubber does mean I can take short cuts cross country if the need arises. Plus they'll fit right in with the top secret paint job... The Tamiya Landcruiser kit is a marvel of plastic engineering BTW. Working suspension on all 4 corners plus turning steering. Very nice. Shame it's not a current kit but who knows. Maybe they'll rerelease it some time.

Scale Effect - another weapon in the rivet counters armoury...

Yes. Thank you Mark.

What type of paint?

www.thepartsbox.com

Emissions?

Not many left here but we've got one about 15 minutes drive away. 3 screens and a 50's styled diner. Open all year round. We probably go once a month. Even in winter. There's something special about watching a movie through the rain and starting the engine up every so often to get hot air to demist the windscreen...

Nice work. Chrysler Australia came up with this

1967. Pontiac Grand Prix convertible.

$150 on an Aurora Robot from Lost in Space kit for my wife's xmas present one year. For me? On a regular injection moulded kit? I spent $60 on this

Thanks for the answers folks. It just struck me that if the paint wasn't tacky when the parts went into the dehydrator then dust wouldn't be an issue. I tend to leave painted parts until I can move then without fear of marking the fresh paint as I find getting them off the paint stand and into the dehydrator impossible without some part of my body or clothing touching tacky paint.

Joe, you are nuts. But "normal" is boring. If you're not grinning you're not winning. Awesome work. Keep it up.

Awwwwwwwwwwwww, aint she cute. Great work Bob.

They need to lose the "cut here" lines on the inside of the bonnet (hood).

How quickly are you moving your painted parts into the dehydrator?

Print it as a decal on clear decal paper. Micro$oft Powerpoint is perfectly capable of producing a fade and is common enough software that you probably have access to it.

Woooooohoooo! this is going to be one hell of a race if everyone remembers to turn up for the start. My wheels arrived Friday so I can finally get to work on finishing the rolling chassis.

If you decide you want to build a gasser and make it 100% "correct" then you really have to pick your year and your ummmm whatchermacallit, authority(? you know NHRA, AHRA, CJDRA etc - my alzheimer's is playing up and I can't think of the correct word). Then download/obtain the rules for that year. These will give you the class divisions as lb per ci which gives you with the designation to paint on the side of the car (it varied by year - some years supercharged classes were AA/G, BB/G etc. Some years they were A/GS, B/GS etc). Now the fun bit (if you are not building a model of a real car) is working out what class the car you are building would fall into. You'll need to find the weight of a stock example of that car and then try to work out what it would have weighed with the engine you'll be fitting and with all the bits removed you'll be removing. Fibreglass front end & doors? That'll remove weight but then in some years that meant a roll cage became mandatory (would you race without one though?) which would be added weight. It's often easier though to just go through "Gasser Wars" or one of the many fine websites and find a car similar to the one that you are using and see what class that was in. Or just guess.