zenrat

Moral: If driving in the USA you are nearly twice as likely to die than if driving in Australia. An in depth study of US TV shows (Breaking Bad, The Sopranos, Bones...) has led me to believe this may be due to a failure to wear a seat belt combined with constant use of a mobile phone whilst driving.

Thanks Steve. I can't find the exact spot (are the green or gold domes still there?) but it's more built up now and yes, the sky does look pretty clear. I used (10 years ago) to work on the 10th floor of an office building in central London which was the level at which the exhaust fumes (diesel buses & taxis) stopped. There was a definite demarkation line between filth and clear air.

Disgusting. They should cover up. I can see the ankles of the girl at the front...

So if I studied the U Tube footage posted by American (or Australian or English or...) drivers i"d find hours of footage of safe driving with no incidents? Yes it's entertaining to watch but basing your opinion of a nations driving record from U Tube is like deciding you don't like American cooking based on McDonalds.

i've got some 30's, 40's & 50's British motorcycling books. Great reading. Recommended riding clothing in one is waders and an overcoat plus a mohair scarf in winter (but it will leave fluff on the collar of your suit). My dad has a book on Bluebird signed by Leo Villa (both Campbells' chief mechanic) which he picked up for almost nothing as the seller didn't know who Villa was.

Or put the engine from one into a deuce...

Good job Niko. The chrome (or would it be stainless)trim looks good.

Mike - he pulled the engine and steam cleaned it while it was out. Thanks guys.

I tried tube glue again recently. Man, i'd forgotten about stringing...what a PitA!

Right up to the time where you have to pay to fill them up I suspect. Fujimi have attempted to sabotage me by discontinuing the wheels I wanted. Well, it's not that easy to stop me. Oh no. I'll, i'll, i'll... ...use some different ones. Other than that i've been distracted by a Hemi Hydro (can I do the run by boat?) and a heap of other kits I couldn't resist starting. So still no progress from me.

SIze I suspect. A 1/35 armoured vehicle is about the same size as a 1/24 car.

Did you offer to take all the unwanted plastic off his hands Mike? I cut the picture off the top of the box and put it in a tub with the instructions. One day i'll go through them and scan those that are needed for the Instructions library website ( http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/ ). I do keep the few classic old boxes I get and use them as storage.

Don't the cars all sit high with stock, un-sagged suspension. Anyone close enough to get us the equivalent shot today? I bet the sky isn't as clear or the buildings as clean.

There are no disasters. Just kit bashing opportunities...

Thanks folks. Tom - yes. The way the brake master cylinder sits a scale 3 inches from the firewall is, ummm, interesting. As a youth I put the chassis under a General Lee... Luc - A round thing about the size of a wheel? I wondered what that was. At least it's on the inside.

Thanks folks. Dave - it's a boat hauler not a bush basher so the chassis is as muddy as I want it. I'm working on a Hemi Hydro so sit behind it. Monty - the underbonnet area is rancid with a big rust patch around the battery (acid spill) and oil everywhere from where it blew a gasket big time. The engine isn't as spotless as it looks in the pic but it was steam cleaned when it was pulled to be fixed. Unfortunately the mechanic didn't do too good a job as its got a few fresh oil leaks on it Tom - nice job. I just couldn't not put a floor in. I don't know what Monogram were thinking.

This is the Monogram kit improved. Resin tyres from The Parts Box with Monogram F250 wheels. Open topped diffs filled and scratch built axle tubes built. 2" body lift. Scratchbuilt floor to hide the gaps between body sides & interior tub. Right hand drive. Sheepskin seat covers. Cut down Italeri truck roo bar. Scratchbuilt towbar. Enamel paint with no clear then weathered with Haymes rust effect paint, Tamiya weathering powder and Gunze acrylic paints. Kit Decals.

Sorry, wrong area.

Seems to be a lot of flash on the chrome sprue considering this was a new tool.

No problems with Testors either but it is thick.

It's subjective. Everyone will have a different answer. I suggest picking someone who's opinion you trust and try what they suggest. If you don't like it or it doesn't work with the way you work or you come across a situation where you don't have anything that will work then try another suggestion. It's only glue and it won't break the bank. We all have our favourites and will all swear that they are the best or only choice. Personally I use Testors styrene cement (black & red square plastic bottle) or Revell professional (blue bottle long metal spout), Tamiya thin glue, 5 minute epoxy, gel type super glue, Microscale crystal clear, Future, clear acrylic paint, Bondcrete (PVA adhesive) and kids stick glue. I also seem to get a lot of random glues in started kits I buy from Evil-Bay. I always try them as well and that was how I discovered the Testors styrene cement. I'm currently trying out a bottle of Faller Expert glue I got through this method.

I found some more. The Revell '68 mustang GT has a set with GT caps on them.

So I wasn't going mad! I didn't know they did that. Avengers were 10 a penny while I was growing up. None in that good a condition though. I've got loads of questions about the Plymouth Cricket but i'm going to google first.

For a moment I though Lee had posted a Hillman Avenger! Personally I have trouble going past this. Or this

Couldn't you find a better picture of the Toyota Erik? They look bad with the lights up and personally I think they should only come in white.