zenrat

The winning bidder could be the seller who has realised there is a moron bidding and has decided to win it themselves in order to avoid the s**t fight that will result from the moron winning and kicking up a fuss when they realise they are model wheels.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but both times I built this kit the fit of the nose & tail bodywork was abysmal and required a massive amount of work to get a good join. I also had to reinforce the rear internally with extra plastic strips. What that means is that you may regret having painted that lovely silver paint before attaching those parts.

You won't get it shipped from the UK to the US. The Royal Mail have, in their wisdom, decreed that they will not airmail flammable liquids. Use the spanish website listed above - the spanish post office are much more sensible.

I use the sanding drum. I always wanted to build a rusted out 'vette just to see how often the body material was pointed out to me.

I doubt it. It might be "wrong" but they just look so BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH good with the nose in the air. Its a bit late to bolt the door as the horses have bolted anyway. Google "gassers", hit the images tab and you'll see that the majority of the cars pictured have the front higher than the back. FWIW it was the done thing in Super Stock competition in the early sixties to lower the back of the car by 2 inches and lift the front by the same amount as it was thought to improve weight transfer on launch.

That's one of mine Nick. Glad you like it. It was inspired by the advertising artwork. Anne - wheels shown on my build are from the AMT '65 Buick & not from the 'haus. Only problem I had was due to my own clumsiness in breaking one side of the windscreen surround. I also found it tricky to get the vacuum formed "glass" to fit snugly but that was probably more due to my inexperience with it.

NIce paint Karl. Here's my Celsior engine bolted up to the 'cruiser transmission along with the turbo and whats left of the sump. And here's the body & interior tub sitting on the chassis. This is bottomed out so it wont be this low. Wheels are the last resort. I think they are too blingy and i'd prefer more sidewall.

IIRC AMT '66 T'Bird also has a set of something similar.

Nice work Jon. Just a thought but you probably wouldn't need to run an alternator on both engines. Unless you've got some secret power draining navi/comms system setup planned... I've actually started. So far i've mocked up the axles on the Landcruiser chassis and struggled to find some suitable wheels - I want treaded road tyres of a largish diameter (or they look stupid) but of a decent sidewall height (or it'll look too much like a blinged up urban SUV which won't mesh with the planned "unstoppable" paintjob). I've also sawn the gearboxes off the backs of the stock straight six turbo diesel and the Celsior V8 and swapped them over. I had to do this as I need to retain the 'cruiser box for its integral transfer case (I now have a spare diesel - pass me that Corvette) I've also had to remove the Celsior sump as it has lumps in exactly the wrong places which will foul the front axle. I'll scratch something up when I get the engine mounts and ride height sorted. Pics soon.

Nice.

Excellent work but I don't think i'd buy anything from a speed shop that didn't look after it's parts runners any better than that.

You're wrong IMO but you're right about not flogging the dead horse. Lets agree to disagree and never mention this again...

We grew our own tomatoes, pumpkins, squash and strawberries this year. The rest of the yard is mostly native plants, shrubs and trees. Lots of trees. Can't get enough trees. We've got the last of the original big gums that were here before the land was cleared and i'm planting more where I can. When the neighbours complain about a 60 foot tree going in I point out that we'll both be dead before it gets to half that height.

That makes sense Sam. I'd feel awfully vulnerable down there amongst the hub caps.

It's the plastic (or some chemical contained therein) bleeding through. I know this because I have sealed red plastic with tamiya primer, put white overcoat on top which remained white and then hit it with too heavy a coat of clear that caused the whole thing to turn pink. Point being that no red showed through the white until I put down the clear.

Not "could have been corrected". Should have been. Even you, John, use the term "corrected". As in to put right. Not modified but corrected. When we buy a new, fresh from the factory model kit we should be able to build it straight out of the box without having to modify any parts to make them fit. Tamiya can manage it but it seems that Round 2 cannot or will not.

Not if they modified the moulds for the clear parts? Is that too hard to do? How many of these have put off inexperienced builders for good because they cracked the "glass" trying to cut it?

Looks fun but what's it like in traffic?

Good to hear Niko. Those built in steering locks are rubbish on any bike. Most of them can be broken with a good kick. If this little beauty was mine i'd be making sure I locked it to something solid every time I left it as it's light enough to lift into the back of a van or ute.

That's no myth. Well, with red it's true - I haven't built a bright yellow kit since I was a kid. If you don't use some method of sealing the red in then the colour will bleed through light coloured paint.

Yep. So wise they made me a special coat that buttons up the back...

Forget the decals, the Pro Street 'Bee kit is great for kit bashing. I see from the instructions that you still have to be told to cut chunks from the bottom of the windscreen in order for it to fit. That should give you an idea as to how AMT view this. Just a quick re-pop with new decals to rake in a bit of quick cash - not worth reworking the moulds to make it actually fit together properly.

Start building them...

Gee Joe you're all heart. Sorry to read about your loss Niko that looks like it was fun.

How old is this build? IMO while one part putty can be sanded smooth and then painted over before it gets a chance to shrink it will shrink given enough time. I;ve got builds in my cabinet that were filled and sanded smooth 5 or 6 years ago but which now exhibit sinking along all the filled seams. Now I used automotive cellulose knifing putty not something intended for model use but I maintain that a one part putty which dries by evaporation will reduce in volume as the solvent evaporates. If all the evaporation has occurred before sanding and painting then I can see how no more shrinking would take place but is that going to happen without a long drying time or thin coats? I don't know. Good luck with your builds as they age and if you are happy with what you are using then by all means stick to it (after all there is no wrong or right way to do stuff in our hobby - despite what certain posters on this forum I could name think) but I learnt from experience that I prefer a 2 part filler as the 1 part one I was using shrank.