zenrat

I'm building one now.

Engine's fine. Might need more rubber though...

I thought that at first glance. But then you start really looking at it... The Wildcat was an E-Type jag shaped kit car based on a Ford Cortina (Ford Europe 3 box sedan - 1600 to 3000cc engine options). I ran into the owners club years ago at Le Mans. Very sad people. Constantly on the defensive about their choice of car. Some of which made the one shown above look complete and well built.

No worries. That's what they want you to do.

S'all right. You won't see that when it's installed and we won't tell anyone will we...

Yes, but it also says in the third bullet after the line you quoted; "When you make your Content public, you grant us a worldwide, non-exclusive, royalty-free license (with the right to sublicense) to copy, distribute, stream, post publicly display (e.g. post it elsewhere), reproduce and create derivative works from it (meaning things based on it), anywhere, whether in print or any kind of electronic version that exists now or is later developed, for any purpose, including a commercial purpose." So combine those 2 quotes and what do you have? To me it says that they can do what they want with your pictures (including making money) but if there are any comebacks from that use then you will be getting the subpoenas not them...

And when you've tried this, try the Lindberg '48 Lincoln...

Copying is easy when the original guy has provided you with all the blueprints and specs so that he can have you make the stuff so he can sack his American workers...

And then there is the VW Willys. I remembered these as looking a whole lot better than they actually do. Selective memory obviously editing out the horror...

I see a lot of you referring to "my photos". Do you not realise that once you have uploaded an image to Photobucket it then belongs to them?

Nice builds guys. I used the wagon roof (which brings a whole heap of new issues), the custom front end added AMT baby moons & some ICE. Sun visor hides the shonky roof/screen join.

Maybe I caught them at a bad time of the month?

Work out what sizes you need and how many of each and then go to a proper tool shop rather than a hobby shop. You'll pay less and they will be better quality.

"without too much work" That's the clincher! That looks great B. The way the curve of the bottom of the body flows into the curve of the frame is spot on.

The use of the term "civilian vehicles" bugs me. It's something the IPMS do. All the military stuff is important enough to get separated into classes like WW2 German Eastern Front soft skinned with a driver called Carl 1/35, WW2 German Eastern Front soft skinned with a driver called Carl 1/32, WW2 Eastern Front... But anything non-military is just lumped into Civilian Vehicles as if they are all the same. And anyway, are the weathering techniques any different for cars compared to tanks? Is military grade rust different because it is catalogued and documented?

Looking good everyone. I think I might start work on mine in June...

On Revell's '32 chassis you can achieve a not insignificant amount of drop by just cutting down Bill's front vertical line almost all the way with a razor saw. Leave about 1.5mm (OK, 1/16") uncut on both sides. The razor saw will have removed enough material that you will be able to carefully bend the rails upwards closing the gap. It will however spring back. Put a block under each end of the chassis and stand something on the middle of the chassis that is just heavy enough to close the gap. I use a tin of paint. Now drip a small amount of styrene cement onto the top of each cut and leave it to set.

Re instruments, do they need to be decals? I have a sheet of speedos and revcounters printed onto plain paper in various diameters and sealed. When I want one I cut it out, stick it in place and then drip a dob of clear or future over it. I've done the same with headlights behind a mesh grille on a custom van.

Maybe because it simply isn't worth the bother of taking any action?

When fixing perspex to the front of book cases to keep the dust out I ran a strip of hockey stick moulding along the bottom of the lowest shelf for it to sit in and used magnetic cupboard catches to hold it in place. Add maybe one or two screws if you have to also keep out small fingers.

Hasegawa do a mirror film that is intended to be used like BMF (get it from HLJ) but which is actually mirrored sticky backed mylar and transmits light like 1:1 mirror tint film. As Mark has found the problem is keeping the air bubbles and dust out.

Easiest way is to drill new off centre mounting holes in the back of the wheels but just like in the real world there are a million ways to lower a car and you really need someone with specific knowledge of this kit to tell you what to do. However, failing that study the parts, work out how it all works and figure out which parts you'd have to modify to get it nearer the ground.

Builds up nice. Tyres seem a little undersized (I replaced them) and the stance needs adjusting if you want it to look like Don's (I went up at the front & down at the back)

If you do sell on evil-bay then please start them at a price you can live with them going for. There is nothing worse than snapping up that 99c bargain only for the excuse to start rolling in. Best one I had was "my little brother broke it". Hey, no problem as I want it for parts anyway...

No worries Scott. What is this place for if not to share tips?