GoatGuy

Wow. Class is still in session..............

Looks GREAT John. And your pics are always clear so we can study and learn.

SUPER. Sooo good John.

John- how did I miss this build? Looks awesome. Awesome. Guys, the truth is, the govt. cloned Mr Teresi years ago and there are several of them working on the car at the same time while one of them has a job. And he has a 50 gallon drum of alclad attached to his airbrush.

Looking forward to more.

You must have a huge garage. Oh..........that's right. You build model cars. But they look REAL.

Love this car.

Looking really good Niko. Really good.

Looks really good Corey. I like the stance.

Thanks John. Check for a PM. Chris- the area for the decal is .085". If you have any, that would be great. Dave- thanks. I have some updates. I found some Simpson decals the right size on a Slixx Nascar goodies sheet for the arm and also see the pic of the arm when it was up for auction recently. Now I just need to dirty it up.

Small update - the Mallory coils are painted and were glued on after this pic was taken. Anybody have any Mallory decals that would fit? The arm will be weathered and the glove finished and Simpson decals applied. Thanks for looking.

Looks great. I agree with Charlie. Post more shots.

The NHRA museum or Smithsonian may want this when it's done.

Looks really good Steve. I do like it a lot.

For those of you who didn't know, like me, a 1:1 barrel valve (k-style) is 7" long with fittings and 3.25" high. The main line is a #8 size and the return lines are #6 which is basically 1/2" according to the guy on the phone at Enderle. I'm going to attempt to make one. Ted's modeling has good info on making one, too. Those of you who are good at making them, please add your wisdom.

Looks really good Niko. Can't wait to see how the final paint turned out. Engine detail looks great.

Thanks Dave. Those are nice clear shots. No, not too late. I haven't extended the frame yet. Maybe I won't add as much as I thought I should. Instead I've been working on other parts. Here's the shot I took of the Sentry Olds car's latch. I'm still kicking myself for not doing what you told me to - take a tape measure with me and measure parts as I take detail pics of the car. I talked to Bruce a few days ago and he's busy going to car shows, so I'm not sure when I can get over there again. Thanks Jim. Your wheels will make a great addition to this build. I just read the encouraging words on the previous page. Thanks Darryl, Art, Niko, and Brad. I appreciate it.

John- a terrific job. Your attention to detail and weathering make it look like the real car. I need to learn weathering/shadowing like that. The parachute lines really got my attention because I remember laying under there to get a couple pics of the car. Thank you for sharing this build with us.

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Blackenit.html This article says to soak the parts in a 50/50 mix of warm water and vinegar first and then the Blacken It. When I use a browning solution on steel muzzleloader parts, sometimes it starts out looking like your results. After the first coat I will "wash" the part with the browning solution and a rag and then put down another coat with a brush. After several coats it ends up with an even brown finish that I will wash with baking soda and water to neutralize the acid. Not sure if that would work with your brass parts.

Looks AWESOME John.

Terry- that is an awesome link. I wish I had the $$ to buy the arm, and the history he gives is great. I downloaded some of the pics so I can make my fake arm look like that, only newer. Thank you very much for posting that. I'll keep an eye on the auction. Richard- I was watching the funny cars run Sunday on ESPN2 and was looking carefully to see how much room there was between the body and frame when they had the bodies up after the burnout. I'll have to add some more to the front frame.

I like it a lot. Great job.

Very nice job. Very clean looking. I always liked that car.

Beautiful. Excellent. Like Mr Sumner said, precise. I think I'll ship my current project to you so it will look right. Kan inte vanta pa att se mer.

Question for the guys that know - isn't the frame supposed to go almost the full length of the body? That way the front latch will be right there at the body? If I leave it as it came in the box, the front latch will have to reach back to the frame quite a ways. Appreciate your input.