GoatGuy

Looks really good Corey. I like the stance.

Thanks John. Check for a PM. Chris- the area for the decal is .085". If you have any, that would be great. Dave- thanks. I have some updates. I found some Simpson decals the right size on a Slixx Nascar goodies sheet for the arm and also see the pic of the arm when it was up for auction recently. Now I just need to dirty it up.

Small update - the Mallory coils are painted and were glued on after this pic was taken. Anybody have any Mallory decals that would fit? The arm will be weathered and the glove finished and Simpson decals applied. Thanks for looking.

Looks great. I agree with Charlie. Post more shots.

The NHRA museum or Smithsonian may want this when it's done.

Looks really good Steve. I do like it a lot.

For those of you who didn't know, like me, a 1:1 barrel valve (k-style) is 7" long with fittings and 3.25" high. The main line is a #8 size and the return lines are #6 which is basically 1/2" according to the guy on the phone at Enderle. I'm going to attempt to make one. Ted's modeling has good info on making one, too. Those of you who are good at making them, please add your wisdom.

Looks really good Niko. Can't wait to see how the final paint turned out. Engine detail looks great.

Thanks Dave. Those are nice clear shots. No, not too late. I haven't extended the frame yet. Maybe I won't add as much as I thought I should. Instead I've been working on other parts. Here's the shot I took of the Sentry Olds car's latch. I'm still kicking myself for not doing what you told me to - take a tape measure with me and measure parts as I take detail pics of the car. I talked to Bruce a few days ago and he's busy going to car shows, so I'm not sure when I can get over there again. Thanks Jim. Your wheels will make a great addition to this build. I just read the encouraging words on the previous page. Thanks Darryl, Art, Niko, and Brad. I appreciate it.

John- a terrific job. Your attention to detail and weathering make it look like the real car. I need to learn weathering/shadowing like that. The parachute lines really got my attention because I remember laying under there to get a couple pics of the car. Thank you for sharing this build with us.

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Blackenit.html This article says to soak the parts in a 50/50 mix of warm water and vinegar first and then the Blacken It. When I use a browning solution on steel muzzleloader parts, sometimes it starts out looking like your results. After the first coat I will "wash" the part with the browning solution and a rag and then put down another coat with a brush. After several coats it ends up with an even brown finish that I will wash with baking soda and water to neutralize the acid. Not sure if that would work with your brass parts.

Looks AWESOME John.

Terry- that is an awesome link. I wish I had the $$ to buy the arm, and the history he gives is great. I downloaded some of the pics so I can make my fake arm look like that, only newer. Thank you very much for posting that. I'll keep an eye on the auction. Richard- I was watching the funny cars run Sunday on ESPN2 and was looking carefully to see how much room there was between the body and frame when they had the bodies up after the burnout. I'll have to add some more to the front frame.

I like it a lot. Great job.

Very nice job. Very clean looking. I always liked that car.

Beautiful. Excellent. Like Mr Sumner said, precise. I think I'll ship my current project to you so it will look right. Kan inte vanta pa att se mer.

Question for the guys that know - isn't the frame supposed to go almost the full length of the body? That way the front latch will be right there at the body? If I leave it as it came in the box, the front latch will have to reach back to the frame quite a ways. Appreciate your input.

More progress made on the fuel pumps.

Here is the fuel pump bracket, for lack of a better word. It holds both fuel pumps. Only one pump came with the kit. I found another and will glue them together and add another line to the white one. The bracket was made from a piece of sprue turned on my "Kentucky lathe" - the ol' Black & Decker held in the vise.

This is the sort of build that should be on video from day one. That's something I could watch over and over. Enjoy the days off.

Excellent job. Excellent detail. I agree with Chris- Charlie has the best.

Chris, is that stuff a type of acid that oxidizes the brass? Maybe there is something else in the metal besides brass that is making it react with the results you're getting. I've never used it. Just guessing.

John it looks GREAT. I'm disappointed that it will be done soon. Wish I could see it in person.

Richard that's good to know. Makes me feel better. Dave- thanks, coming from one of the Masters. I should have some more pics by this weekend. I put boltheads on the access panel of the bell housing and lost one already. I should have put them on at the end, after all of the handling was done. Live and learn. I showed this motor to Bruce Larson the last time I was there and pointed out the photoetch starter bracket above the top pulley. He took the motor out to the Sentry Olds and had a big smile on his face. Said it looked really good. Made me feel good. Hopefully the barrel valve and fuel lines will turn out ok. Thanks for the encouragement.

Here is one of the brake lever attached with a cable for the extinguisher that I will add to later so the cable reaches the front of the chassis. Also rear wheels from Micro Nitro. I'm using the kit front wheels because I already had the center section "whittled" out to fit the rotors. The rest of the harness will be added this week. It is obvious that it is not there yet in this pic.