Ace-Garageguy

Friend of mine rescued a cat that he found wandering around dazed and scared after someone had poured glue all over it. I've seen a lot worse. I swear, if I caught someone mistreating an animal like that, they'd never find the body. But the SOB would learn a little of what it feels like before he died. The really awful part is that people do it to children too.

Nice! Like the choice of colors and detail bits too.

Holy cow. i had NO idea IMC ever made an Avenger kit. Gots to get one now. I had a real one about 1000 years back with a Corvair 140 on a VW pan. Total POS, heavy, awful fiberglass, rattles, fumes, leaks everywhere...but great fun. Of course if you parked it, when you came back there was always some bozo explaining to his awestruck girlfriend that it was a Ford GT race car. Nothing ever changes, I guess.

LOOK at the photos of the real blocks. The block needs to be modified to look like the real one. That huge ledge at the rear of the driver's side of the model block isn't there on a real block. There's also not as much meat at the front of the passenger side of a real block as there is on the model block. LOOK and compare the shapes. The heads, though weak in detail, don't show much once the whole thing is put together anyway, but MeatMan has a good idea if you don't want to screw around doing a lot of mods to a carppy engine. I suggest this one. It'll pass for a 350, it's a real beauty, and you can get 'em cheap on ebay.

YES! Nice proportions. Only thing wrong for a late-'50s altered would be the trans. The basic design of trans attached to the Revell ('29 Ford) Buick nailhead engine didn't debut until about 1964. The trans in the SWC Willys kit is based on an earlier design GM unit, and would be more appropriate, though a manual gearbox would have been more likely in the late '50s.

Not a clue. Curiosity got the better of me, so I looked it up. Who'd a thunk.

Slusher's clue stated she was in an Elvis movie and a '60s TV series. I went down the list of Elvis' girls, recognized the name "Pat Priest" but didn't know where from. Googled it, came up with the Munsters tie-in. Here's another pic of her obviously shot the same day as the one Slusher posted.

In all fairness to Revell, though it's hard to see it in some pix of the real car, there IS a stamped character line that runs down the side of the entire car, including above the door handle.

The Munsters babe?

V8 heads are, of course, almost always staggered somewhat to accommodate the connecting rods being paired on the crank journals. The stagger on your heads doesn't look all that bad, but what IS bad is the too-simplified tooling of the top of the block surfaces where the heads mount. The photos (below) show typical smallblock Chebby blocks. They're all about the same, so all you need to do is to make those ledges on the ends of the block that protrude from under the heads look more like the real block casting. Reference photos abound as to what it SHOULD look like.

Really depends on the specific time period and location. Gliding was a popular sport in Germany pre-WW II (as it remains today) and there were numerous clubs whose aircraft would have had only civilian markings. Germany was training pilots in Russia for a time prior to the war as well. This old photo shows a glider-trainer, not the same type, but clearly marked.

Doug, I certainly didn't mean to be rude or to imply you don't know what you're looking at. Though there is some lens distortion apparent in the photo of the model above, what bugs me most every time I compare the two shots is that the upper angle of the 'beak' where the bumper protrudes forward of the grille appears to me to be too flat, making the protrusion of the leading edge of the bumper necessarily too far forward, when compared to the real car. Another way to say it is that, to me, the angle between the plane of the headlight door in the header and the top surface of the bumper appears to be wrong on the model, and perhaps the height of the headlight opening contributes to the appearance. It's impossible for me to tell from Frank's model shot exactly what the relationship is between the height of the headlight opening and the seam between the header panel and the upper bumper cap. I've always thought these were quite handsome cars, and it's great to have a newly tooled kit of one, but again, to me, the initial impression of the real car doesn't suggest quite the snow-plow effect I see on the model.

We have a winner, folks!! Lena Heady. Also in Game of Thrones.

Nope, and nope.

No, sorry.

How's 'bout dis one?

I have no idea when these were built, or by whom. I got them in a bunch of built-ups, parts and just plain junk. They're both curbsides, and the work under them is pretty crude.

LH .65" RH .65" (16.5mm)

No. A razor saw looks like a straight razor, and has little teeth on it. 32TPI (teeth per inch) is good for non-wood model work. Nickel-steel photoetched saws that fit other (standard) X-acto (and other design) handles work well too.