Ace-Garageguy

I'm surprised the site allowed you to register a new account from your old IP address. I thought it recognized the originating IP and dis-allowed new accounts originating from an existing, recognized address...to prevent multiple accounts being held by the same person.

Any kind of decent chisels, even micro-chisels, will be made from some kind of 'tool steel', which is very much harder than brass. Brass is a soft alloy of copper and zinc, and cuts very easily with steel tools. But to get good results making 'turned' parts, you will need some way to hold your Dremel securely, and a way to control your cutting edge rigidly and accurately in relation to your spinning part. Holding the cutting tool in your hand isn't sufficient. I have a full-sized lathe in my home shop, and frequently make full-scale parts at work. Being able to accurately control both the part you're making, and the tool you're cutting with, is paramount.

The black is pretty uniformly orange-peeled from not-great painting technique. Local 'polishing' of just the spotty areas (I assume these are the things you want to get rid of) will leave you with shiny spots where you polished, as the polishing operation will level the orange peel somewhat. There's really no way to locally repair a textured surface (by "textured" in this case, I mean the orange peel) without it being at least as noticeable as just leaving it alone.

Yes, a big thanks is in order just for providing this site free for car modelers to exchange information. I've learned a lot here.

'cause then you wouldn't HAVE to buy the other one...

And research has proven conclusively that learning new things as we age helps to keep our brains sharp, and may even help delay the onset of dementia or Alzheimer's. Think of the site change as a free opportunity to get mentally younger and fitter, while perusing something you enjoy.

The seam you refer to in the OP is obvious on this model in-progress by Chuck Most. You've already noticed it is in roughly the same place as the crease on the fender of the real car. The upper part of the fender stamping is stepped slightly outward relative to the area below the crease. Just try to get the same amount of relative step during assembly.

Click your user name @ top right of the page. You get a drop-down menu with "sign out" in it.

Just looked at one still on the trees in the box, and one not-too-bad builtup. The seam appears to be pretty well where the character line is on the real fender, and it also appears the fender-half locating tabs may be engineered to provide a sorta correct 'step' so that the crease will look right when built. Give it careful assembly, try to align the seam so it provides just a small 'step', and it should look great.

Road bliss? Novel concept. Maybe something like this? Or this?

Wait...wait...don't tell me...I know it...ah never mind.

Sheeple don't really realize there's anything large wrong in the world anyway; as long as they have their bread and circuses, they're content. But you're right... people, in general, would rather rag about things than get sweaty and change them. And in today's "new improved" world, it's much more automatic to be peeved because of some minor inconvenience or perceived slight than it is to actively look for something to be grateful for. Just average humans being average humans.

At the time the Red Baron was a new release, several IPMS types ID'd the engine as a WW-I Mercedes aircraft powerplant. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Art, it's similar, but not accurate...AND, it's about 1/32 scale in a 1/24 kit. I've done considerable research into this, having wanted to use the engine in a fantasy between-wars LSR car. No dice.

Wow. Making improvements rapidly, you are. Nice work.

Eeees hokay. Chood be joosed to eeet een a few mor mineets.

...just like the best way to stop this silly shittstorm is to just...stop it.

Frankly, I'm appalled when I see moron 'patriots' abusing this country's flag too. There was a time when our flag meant something sacred to most every American. We treated it with the respect and reverence it deserves, because of what it truly stands for. We used to take it down in the rain. We used to never let it touch the ground. If it wasn't illuminated, we used to take it down at night too, and carefully fold it. And many of us fought, killed and died for what the American Flag means...freedom. Correction: apparently, what it USED to mean.

Oh my.

Good looking build, but as has been said already above, it wasn't the marking on the roof that got the topic locked. It was the self-righteous PC politicizing and childish comments of some of your fellow modelers that prompted it.

The series used Buicks, yes, but they also ran Mercuries, Chryslers, Oldsmobiles and others in Highway Patrol markings, and even Chebbies as unmarked cars. One of the Oldsmobiles. Didn't have time to search for or screen-shot a Merc, but they were there too. Trust me.

Try contacting Flight Coffee directly... http://flightcoffee.co.nz/blogs/news/7363442-our-new-cards-are-tiny-model-planes

Maybe seamed it right at the door shut-line in front? The hinges are gone, and it doesn't have the molding at the bottom of the cowl side panel like the '31 part does.

I'd buy multiples of both, really. The '53 for an old Highway Patrol car, a stocker, a custom...

Steve, the windshield pillars are very thick, and the '28-'29 hood fits the cowl well. What this says to me is that somebody grafted the '28-'29 cowl to the front of, as you suspect, the Revell '30-'31 shell...and sanded off the signature '28-'29 coach-lines from the sides. Look inside the body. The Revell shell had opening doors, so see if they've been glued shut. Your model has '28-'29 fenders. AHA! Your model also has the opening rear door of the '31 Revell body shell. Somebody with limited funds but needing a 'truck', maybe during the Great Depression, surely could have done a similar conversion in reality.